GEARING OPTIONS

Discussion in '2005 - 2012 (S-197) Mustang' started by hms32, Feb 18, 2009.

  1. EvasiveS197 New Member

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    Well, seeing as the drag would be more for fun and rivalry between friendly enthusiasts, I like the idea of the 3.73's (isn't it 73? Non 79?). However, I read where someone was saying running the 4.10's with a taller tire will put me at roughly a 3.90 or something...

    I just don't wanna get one and then want the other...

    Also, I read in a different thread (which I can't find, anymore) about certain manufacturers being good/bad on making gears. Who should I avoid/look at?
  2. mustangford289 Founding Member

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    LOL yes 3.73

    I'm am an old school classic stang guy....it was 3.79 then...3.73 now

    Buy Ford gears only! From a Ford Motorsports retailer....or from a Ford dealer...

    The whole taller tire thing escapes me....A taller tire would reduce the gearing, so why not just leave the tire as it is and get a higher gear? It will save you a grand or so....

    Larger wheels and tires ad weight and increase drag....Not good for racing. Just show, not go. Bling if you will. Kind of like all the stickers and plastic you see on so many ricers and the occasional Mustang, so sad.

    If you drag the car get a set of drag radials and mount them on the lightest rim you can find.
  3. NastyStang113 New Member

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    There is a big purpose to taller tires. Just ask any guy who's running 700+ rwhp at the track ...
  4. mustangford289 Founding Member

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    3.79 or 4.10


    He is running 300hp at the track...and on the street.

    Whenever larger-than-stock tires are installed, it will have a direct effect performance.

    It has to do with the effective gear ratio.

    When taller tires are installed the axle ratios stay the same; the effective gear ratio is reduced.
    This means the engine is forced to operate below its power band, and performance suffers as a result.
    In order to restore the effective gear ratio, you'll need to have the axle gears swapped to lower (numerically higher) ratios.
    So with 4.10 gears then tall tires, you are effectively putting in a numerically smaller gear ratio.
    Also, you are lifting the center of gravity, thus reducing handling capabilities.

    True 700hp drag cars are a whole different animal and multiple tire sizes are used to find the optimum times.
    But, they are not street driven nor do they handle well.

    Lets say you put in 4.10's then add taller tires to change you effective gear ratio. Thus reducing the 4.10 ratio to say 3.7, I'm guessing.
    Why not just leave the stock tire size and go with whatever the effective gear ratio will end up at with the 4.10's and a taller tire?
    Granted tall tires may reduce spin but wheel spin has many solutions, mostly practice.

    You will spend 500 on a 4.10 gear install then 1000.00 on rims, then 1000.00 on tires for .2 to .3 seconds in the 1/4 mile.
    Then your car will suffer on the road and race track as far as handling goes and on the road as far as fuel economy goes. When you drive home 2000 miles you can spend an extra 300 on fuel each way.

    This is not to say your car may not look good.
    I have seen many cars with 20 inch rims that look great....but they are higher off the ground, thus they do not handle well....
    This is not to say one could not drop another 3000.00 to lower the car so it will handle better....

    You see where Im going? You are chasing a ghost.

    If you want a drag car build it.

    If you want a handling machine build it.

    If you want a daily driver improve what you have by gearing up a little, get some better tires, a tuner, maybe some better springs and focus on practicing launches, cornering....whatever you like.
    Then once you master the car get a supercharger if you want more speed....

    You cannot have it all.

    Let me correct that, you cannot have it all with out many thousands of dollars for say a 911 turbo or a ZR1......
  5. EvasiveS197 New Member

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    Good point (lifting gravity) that I had honestly thrown out of mind.

    With all this said, to achieve my goals of an all-around car, I think the best I can do is go ahead and get the driveshaft (ordered it this morning. 535$ shipped, Coast one-piece aluminum :nice: ) Long Tubes (probably the next project), and then either the Stage 3 or the charger. As for gears, I'll wait and get the charger installed first. Considering I want a DD/WW primarily, not a true race car, I'll leave the 3.55's for the time being. A buddy of mine with a fox body had 73's or 79's (can't remember) on about 450hp and he said the car just wanted to ice skate on a hard launch or a slip of the clutch pedal. Once the car has the charger tuned, I'll butt-decide over 55's vs. 73's, and hopefully in the meantime I can meet some 73 drivers and see how it feels and such.
  6. NastyStang113 New Member

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    I took it as you were saying that there is no purpose to larger diameter tires. Not just in this case.
  7. mustangford289 Founding Member

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    Good plan

    Ya Nasty, I was just talkin about him....I should've said that.

    Evasive, sounds like a good plan to me. I think you are taking a measured approach that will result in the best set up for your purposes. Good luck. Let us know how things pan out, I am considering a set up very similar to what you are talking about.
  8. EvasiveS197 New Member

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    I'll definitely have write-ups and such. It'll be the first time I'll really get to have my hands covered in something other than soap and wax for my baby.

    Ordered my driveshaft this morning. 535$ shipped. It'll be going in this approaching weekend or the one following.
  9. NastyStang113 New Member

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    What driveshaft did you get? I'm thinking about the Dynatech. :D
  10. EvasiveS197 New Member

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    I went with Coast's 4" 500lb/tq aluminum. I don't EXPECT I'll be hitting that up...

    Then again, I could always get the roush solid steel one. Not much weight loss, but it holds something like 3,000lbs/tq or something ridiculous and unneccesary like that. LoL

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