Gillis Valve

Discussion in '2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech' started by SVOconvLX85, May 26, 2004.


  1. SVOconvLX85

    SVOconvLX85 Member

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    I have a couple of questions. First, is the Gillis Boost Valve? What would that replace or eliminate on my SVO. Would it replace the Boost control solenoid? That’s the little cylinder looking thing with two wires coming out of it on my inner fender well. If it did replace that, what would I do with the other end of the wires coming out of the Motorcraft box? (The box that the boost solenoid wires in to.) What about that solenoid that they sell on the Gillis website? Which one should I get and is it worth it?

    My second question is about the vacuum lines from my turbo. I came across a turbo coupe at the junkyard and it had some vacuum lines on it from the intercooler (for the boost gauge). It went into a one-way valve and then into a “T” fitting and then to the boost gauge. The other outlet of the “T” fitting went to the vacuum block. Are that valve and the “T” fitting necessary? I hooked it up to my car and it seems like it ran a little better but that could be an illusion.
    Thanks and sorry so long
  2. Pro-Hawk

    Pro-Hawk New Member

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    Umm this seems more like a 6 questions to me :D That maybe because I'm either to ADD or don't know enough...maybe both :doh:

    :Gillis:

    This would replace the stock boost valve. As for those wires mine still has them hooked up and I pray I don't need them since my is regged up :bang: A run down my car has the manual boost valve but those wires hooked up I would say leave'em alone my self ;)

    :IC:

    Plug up all the vaccum lines on the TC's IC and hook it up to the SVO. That is just what the SVOCA guys tells me anyways.
  3. 140cilx

    140cilx Founding Member

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    Install the Gillis valve, remove the BCS and the box that say's Motorcraft on it that controls the BCS.

    Do what Prohawk said about the lines off the intercooler, just plug them.

    I'd feed the Gillis valve a line from off the vacuum tree. This will eliminate surging and boost spikes and give you the smoothest most accurate boost.
  4. Pro-Hawk

    Pro-Hawk New Member

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    :BOS:
    So I can remove that box the boost controller plugs into? Thats great you should see how that things is pluged up :doh: Look at my site where I had to fix my IAC connector and the BCS was done the same way. :bang:

    :Gillis:
    Now what ends plug in where? I got a Gillis also that I'm going to use once I get her back together.
  5. 140cilx

    140cilx Founding Member

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    The instructions are pretty simple, one end goes to the wastegate diaphram, one end to the vacuum tree. Bottom line, opposite the adjusting screw that goes to the vacuum tree, right angle to the diaphram. http://www.boostvalve.com/tech/IC_install.html
  6. Pro-Hawk

    Pro-Hawk New Member

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    So does it matter what vaccum line it plugs into the vaccum tree it makes sense that it don't but you never know? If my tree is full dod I just use a "T" right? Sorry I haven't even opened my Gillis to check this out.
  7. 140cilx

    140cilx Founding Member

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    No it doesn't matter, t is fine, just make sure there's no kinks in it! :nice:
  8. Pro-Hawk

    Pro-Hawk New Member

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    Thanks. :hail2: :nice:
  9. SVOconvLX85

    SVOconvLX85 Member

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    So what do I do with the ports from the turbo to the BCS. Just plug them? I can just simply remove the Motorcraft box too? Where should I connect my boost vacuum line for the gauge?
  10. Pro-Hawk

    Pro-Hawk New Member

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    That link 140cilx posted on boost valve a few post back has a diagram on hooking it up and what ports to plug. (Its also on gillis's site). I think one end goes to the tree and the other goes to the Accuator. The rest is capped off but check the site out first ;)

    I would put a "T" on where the stock gauge goes and run both. The stock one plugs into the fourth port on the vaccum tree moving from drivers side to pasg side. ( I think thats right) If memory servers me right on my car the first port is caped off and then three on the side of it going from drivers to psg side. My MotorCraft box is still on my car with the BCS but I may take mine to place the Gillis there.
  11. SVOconvLX85

    SVOconvLX85 Member

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    Does anyone else's boost gauge not show anything when revved at idle. Just curious?
  12. mr_woodster

    mr_woodster Active Member

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    thats affiramative...you dont build boost when at idle ..or "free reving" the motor, the load is what cuases the spool=boost
  13. Pro-Hawk

    Pro-Hawk New Member

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    I was wondering the same thing and figured it was a load deal but didn't want to say anything and be missleading ;) Now is this just a 2.3T deal are on all Turbo cars? The reason is last weekend there was a guy with a SRT-4 complaining about not making full boost. So he was checking all is IC plumbing etc. Then he gets in the car and revs the motor to see if helped his boost in which he says it didn't. Now I didn't here the turbo winded up but he said it was making 9 psi of boost :scratch: It sounded weird to me since I could never do this with my SVO but I figured its some new technology etc on the SRT-4.
  14. a351Must2

    a351Must2 Windsor II Founding Member

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    On a 2.3L, if you build boost by free revving, something is wrong...usually timing is retarded. It can build boost, but it has to be spun past 5K rpm and doesn't prove anything.

    The imports seem to be different...my Eclipse will build 12psi on a free rev to 4500rpm. It's also got a turbo that will flow more than a T03 and will fully spool at ~2500rpm with only a 2.0L running it.
  15. jman_b13

    jman_b13 Founding Member

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    you can build boost in neutral, if you get the rpms up over 3000ish and just pump the gas in and out revving it, it will get a few lbs of boost.
  16. Pro-Hawk

    Pro-Hawk New Member

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    I rather not try it ;)

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