I found what i think is a great set of heads from my friend. He wants 380 bucks for them. Here is the description: set of bare casting small closed chamber high compression large valve heads, casting # DOOE. The heads are being sold for a friend, as he decided to run a big block. He had them baked and shot blasted, checked for cracks, resurfaced, and bronze guide inserts added. He had them bowl hogged for larger 1.94 intake and 1.6 exhaust valves, and he had a multi angle valve job done. He had the factory rocker studs pulled and the heads were machined for 3/8" screw in rocker studs, and milled for pushrod guide plates. Then he had the spring pads machined for dual valve springs, and the heads were machined for press on valve seals. These heads have a lot of money invested in them, more than double the selling price. The heads will fit any 351w engine, and will fit a 289 / 302 with some modification and different head bolts or head bolt adapters, which I can modify them, For a stock 302 engine (aside from carb) should i buy these heads? Also, what would be a good cam to go with them?
alright. Im assuming thats good. One last question, what kind of cam should i get for these heads. I kno these heads will drop the C/R a little so take that into consideration. Comp Cam 270 possibly?
Honestly.. i couldnt tell you. Im the second owner and the autobroker just knew that it was converted to a 302. So im probaly going to assume stock pistons for a standard 302. I know its inconvient to not know these things, but im tryin to give you as much info as i know.
If they are fresh, it is a good deal. With out more info on the shortblock it's hard to tell what it will do to cr. A split pattern cam will work much better with those heads than the symetrical 270. Call comp for a recommendation.
He'd better find out for sure what pistons are there before ordering or choosing a cam. If that motor by chance has the mid 70's dished ones, then no heads are going to help there, unless you find a set of tiny chambered ones.
If those heads have no valves then by the time you get good stainless ones and have them fitted with good valvesprings and seals you are going to have enough invested to buy a set of used aluminum heads that will outperform them hands down.
Those are good heads... BUT, That is too much for bare castings. The price you are talkin' should get you valves too. Dave
the above posts are what i was kinda thinking also. So while where on topic. Gt-40p heads with triple angle valve job and new springs all ready to be bolted on for 400 bucks. How does that sound? Also, is there any easy way to tell the year of the block? I dont mind digging some but i dont want to get into the bare bone of the block to figure it out preferably due to lack of experience.
The year of the block is in code. Cast next to the engine mount bosses on the starter side of the block, if memory serves. I think you have to drop the starter to read it. The year code of the casting will start with a letter. C= the 1960s D= the 1970s E= the 1980s and so on... The next digit is a number. Soooooo.... C9xxx will mean the block was designed to 1969 specs. D4xxx means 1974 specs. And so on... The casting can be used from the factory in a later model, but you will never see a D4 block in a 73 or earlier car, for example. You might however find a car originally equipped with a D4 block in 76, assuming all specs were the same between the years. That was just an example. Dave
The year of the block tells you squat, what matters is what's inside. Very few blocks still have their original components after twenty-thirty years. Ditto for the cars themselves, not uncommon to find a late model engine in an early car.
I bought a pair of new Ford Racing aluminum GT40 "Y303 Takeoff" heads from Ford a couple of weeks ago for about $650 plus shipping. By the time you complete those 351W heads, you'll have a lot more than this into them.
96... those heads are the ones that normal headers can bolt to, right? I've been looking at the GT40xs on ebay as a replacement for my current stockers without breaking the bank and leaving enough potential for 400 hp (if not much more). Good choice would you say?
The GT40X heads are a very respectable head. I put some on a 94 Cobra with all the bolt ons and tuning and she made 300 RWHP and the heads were "out of the box" and there is room for improvement with porting.
The heads I got are "takeoffs" from new crate motors. They are complete. They've never been run. They were removed at the factory to replace them with the new "Z304" heads. I made a mistake in my first post. The ones I got are the "Y303" heads. They look great. The best prices I found for these were at two places. Diversified Products Marketing in Michigan had them for $699. Five Star Ford in Scottsdale, AZ had them for $653 plus shipping. I got mine from Five Star. Anyone interested can look them up and E-mail or call MAX. He's in charge of Internet sales there. He's a great guy to deal with.
I am not sure that this is totally true. My uncle picked up a set yesterday. The straight spark plugs were obvious, and would certainly require different headers in a car like a Fox body, but it looks like the old standard SBF headers will do fine. My guess is that the Fox guys tried to use them and ran into fitment problems, then it just became 'the rule' that you need special headers. My uncle lucked up, big time... He knew some folks that work at a garage, he stopped in to shoot the bull, and noticed they were replacing a blown engine in a late model Explorer. He asked what they were doing with the long block (rod hanging out the side), they said it was scrap. He saw the "GT40P" inside the heads, asked if he could have them... they said yes, if you unbolt them. They have another complete Explorer engine that they told him to take too! He is still on the fence, but since it doesn't have major damage like the other, I am pretty sure he is going to grab it. Some guys have all the luck. Dave
