Help a Rookie in Need

Choices and more choices.. I think everyone here have their outlook on what parts and combo works or more cost effective. And a 20 year old will see it in a different light then a 45 years old.
Best is to get a test drive in as many different Mustang as possible. Go to the local track and check out the different combo. Talk to the racer. I am learning everytime I hit the track and log on to my computer.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


I agree with time only. There's a million combos that you can build. And everyone will have a a different opinion, best thing you can do is start reading, this is the perfect site to dig around and see what you like and don't like. Go to the track and see what works best. Eventually you'll start figuring out which direction you want to take it.
 
Youre going to see anywhere from 50-70 HP gain from a good H/C/I combo. The GT40's are nice and you cannot argue with genuine Ford design, but if money isnt an obstace then I would suggest an aluminum option to reduce weight.
 
Short of it...
Bought a 1993 5.0 LX Convert. I now need to know what to do to make it faster, way to slow..
This is my thought process Please be brutally honest I am a big boy I can take it. (in this order)
1. Equal Length Long Tub Headers
2. X-Pipe Catted (Dont want to jack with inspection)
3. Mass air Meter (What Size?)
4. Throttle Body (What Size?)
5. Holley Systemax II
6. 4.10 Gears (not a daily driver)
7. Aluminum Drive shaft
8. SCT 4 Bank Eliminator Chip..

Please again be brutally Honest...

I am not a total Rookie as far as Mustangs go, I have had a
1994 Cobra
2001 Saleen Speedster Convert.
Both sold and gone and someone else did the work I want to do it this time.
Thanks again

that prolly wont even get you a mid 13..

here's my cheap ass way to a quick 5.0...

gt40p's
stock cam -4
good intake mani (systemax will work fine)
70mm tb
70mm maf (off a vic)
mac longtubes
underdrives
take all the smog crap and a/c off
3.73's minimum (4.10's best) and yes you can cruise with 4.10's your only going 2600 rpm at 70mph if thats too high for you, you should drive a diesel..
3000 stall
some form of shift kit for the aod...
mickey t dr's

that will put you well the 12's and its pretty damn cheap..
 
Put 3.73's in and swapped in a 5 speed, not bad...

GT40P's with 75mm TB and Exploder intake, B cam, 73mm MAF WAYYYYYYYYYY better!!
Good low end, and when you let the RPM's climb..... :D
 
Put 3.73's in and swapped in a 5 speed, not bad...

GT40P's with 75mm TB and Exploder intake, B cam, 73mm MAF WAYYYYYYYYYY better!!
Good low end, and when you let the RPM's climb..... :D

see here's where common sense comes to play, an engine is one big air pump. why have a bigger tb than maf? that makes no sense!! i mean yeah its only 2mm diff but, at the least have the maf bigger than the tb..


to the op, stay with the stock cam, it has been 11's na on gt40p's a bunch of times, however they are not running 3.55's with stock stalled aod's, they have either stalled aod's with 4.10's-4.30's or a stick with good clutch/ alum flywheel and nice ole 4.10's 4.30's..

my good friend has an 88gt stock gt40's, rr's, cobra intake, stock cam -4, 4.30's and a lightened stock bottom end and has been 11.90's with it.. still has full interior, and it sounds like a stock car..
 
So should I leave it Auto or should I plan on converting to 5-spd...
If I keep it auto, Iw ill be doing the following
1. Shift Kit
2. Transmission Cooler
3. Light weigth fly wheel
4. Stall Converter (2400)

Thanks
That's up to you. If you know how to drive the 5 speed, and I mean really drive it, it WILL be faster than the AOD. Quite a bit faster. Personally I would swap it to a 5 speed yesterday.

What type of Gain would I see on a Explorer GT40 Upper/Lower and the GT40P Heads?
Keep in mind this is on a stock block. w/ the following.
70 MM Mass Air Meter
70 MM Throttle Body
Shorty Headers
Pypers Cat Back
Catted X-Pipe

Just an estiamte is good enought for me.

thanks Guys yall Kick A$$

Bigger throttle body, bigger mass air, long tubes.