They are hydraulic magnum cams from comp cams the first one is good street use from 1500-5500 the duration is 286 268 /224 224 /valve lift .440 .440/ lobe is 110* the second is also magnum from comp cams and it is great mid to high performance cam 1800-5800 duration is 280 280 / 236 236/ valve lift .460 .460/lobe 110* which of these cams will give best results for a 2.3 NA and what kind of increases could you get from either one. Maybe someone could figure out approx 1/4 mile with 88 2.3 with one of these cams, CAI, ported head and intake, with header and 2.5 exhaust, and other minor mods. Just the regular things ( could i beat a new cavalier)???
Really....wasnt aware. So i guess i would be swapping to MAF aswell. still would like to know performance differences. there is a certain sunfire and cavalier that really need to be beat.
but you can still go with a mild cam. Just keep it under 220 @ .050 and you should be fine. Check out camcraft. http://www.camcraftcams.com/index2.html I have the "38-2020". I am not running it on a speed density engine, but I didn't loose low end torque, and it revs up a lot more now. Look at my sig for my setup. no head porting yet.
So Bhuff how fast would you say you are in the quarter and what would you compare to....without the 75 shot Also on your site it says you dynoed at 135 hp 152 tq was this with or without your turbo and also with or without the juice.
that dyno was without N20. The automatic completly kills my quarter mile times. I run mid 18's at 75mph. That is with a ****ty 2.7+ 60'. However, on the street, I seem to run with cars that run 17's. I beat an accord EX that ran low 17's from the factory. I havn't gotten the 75 shot tuned well yet, but it really helps. I only seem to be getting an extra 50hp from my 75 shot, but it is because I am using a dry shot with gigantic injectors. Either way, on the G-tech, I run mid 16's at 88mph with the N20. Should be mid 15's in the 90's though. Just a little more tuning..... Get a wet kit. They are easy, and you could run a 125 shot.
Yea i know i could N2O my car up and blow theyre doors off but i rather not have to resort to it. I would like to beat them with raw power then they dont have any excuses.
You don't have to tell 'emm what your running. put on a small 40 dry shot, and you will blow his doors off. It is really easy to hide everything too. I have my bottle in a bag, the feed line under the interior pieces, the solenoids, in the cowl, and lines covered with the black coil stuff in the engine compartment. Soon as I tap the intake instead of the pipe before the throttle body, it will be completly hidden.
I am considering N2O but these guys are friends of mine and the word will get around we're all in the same school and i also would like to have power anytime i feel like getting on it to pass or just for fun to give someone a ride. I want to feel a bit of power.
Where is the Nitrous injector at? I saw the cowl part does this mean its shooting down towards the airfilter/box?
Bhuff how quick was your car with the turbo running around 12 psi? Did it make a huge noticable difference or what? what would you compare the performance with and maybe a HP guess
It was descent, but I never had an intercooler on it, and never could advance the cam timing much. I would say I was around 160hp, good for mid 16's. That was with a horrible full crush bent 2" exhaust.
Do you think that running around 12 psi with the TC injectors, turbo, computer, and air meter my engine would last long or would it make a durability diffence with an intercooler? What could I do with the injectors, comp,air meter, and turbo to make it last and work?
The IC helps keeps detonation down and helps cool intake air down. I would guess a non IC system wouldn't do to good pass 10psi but that is a guess. The ole 83-86' TC's that came without IC's only ran 10psi I believe while the 87-88' TC's came with IC's and ran 15 psi stock. ( they could do 18-20psi also) Just a thought/guess
