How to drag race your classic

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by 10secgoal, Jul 22, 2005.

  1. Great thread... I havnte had a chance to read through it all. But what has anyone done to strengthen the shock towers in the 65 mustangs? Wont a lot of weight transfer put more strain on them?
     
  2. I've never heard of any serious issues that aren't taken care of with the Monte Carlo bar and an export brace (in 65' street machine.) Just be sure that you have well made bars, as some of the knockoffs are made of thinner metals that reduce strength.

    An "improved" Monte Carlo bar would reach from shock tower to shock tower (and not just in front of them, like the Shelby style--of course most of the time the carb would then be in the way.)

    Another option are special triangulated pieces that that replaces both bars mentioned. They would give the utmost strength.

    Of course your existing shock towers must be in good shape to use any of these options . . . . .
     
  3. I finally have an update.....I fixed my steering issue and was able to start driving my stang again. I noticed a few days ago, my car felt like it was hitting going over bumps. So I checked my rancho's and noticed they were bottoming out:(
    Holly crap, thats was why my car was cutting horrable 60' times at the track. I took out the rubber bushings and made a bracket to lower the shocks 2". The rear has complete travel now and dosesn't hit. I can't believe I didn't notice this at the track. My car would start to pull the front tires of the ground and just fall down, I guess the shocks would hit and unload the rear, causing my car to fall on it face. Well the proble is fixed....
    This weekend in Orlando, Fl is FFW and I have to work everyday but Sunday. I was thinking of entering the stang in the bracket series on sunday. I just want to run with the big boy's...I'll let you know if my times get better.
    I am only going to run 6psi until I get custom 2' headers, I just can't flow anything out of my current set up.
     
  4. You know I was wondering about that. Ihave reverse eye leafs and when I put my new Rancho's in I was a little concerned how far I had to compress them to get them to fit. My car hits pretty hard at launch and I hope it doesn't bottom them out and unload the car.... I do like the ride on setting 1 on the street, much smoother than my cheapie shocks I had....

    I guess I'll have to play with it at the first upcoming test & tune.
     
  5. Something else recently found out. When/if you order Caltracs, you have to tell them if you have reverse eye, mid eye and so on. It throws off the bars and you can't completly adjust the instant center.
     
  6. I would check the shocks after a hard launch, I can't wait to get back to the track and test the new ones.
     
  7. Isn't it race season already? Hows everyone hooking?
     
  8. FYI, this is considered to be a 6pt roll bar, not a cage. Looks great though. I like how the carpet is done. Tucks nicely with the tubework.

    Jason
     
  9. Added the 6 cylinder springs and 90/10 shocks on the front and removed the sway bar. Added the Rancho shocks on the rear. Now have some serious weight transfer.

    Burnout:

    [​IMG]

    Launch:

    [​IMG]

    Have had as fast as a 1.66 second 60' (running a 4 speed.) Last year they were always 2.00 or slower.
     
  10. Hells yes. Now strap the front end and see if it gets better. If it hooks when the front is 75% up, there is no reason to go any further.
     
  11. Dennis, What size tire and type are you running?
     
  12. Cool sidewall wrinkle also!!
     
  13. I called Calvert for there advice before going to the track and they like to get about 5" of front lift to plant the Caltracs.

    I realize that I am wasting some energy with all that frontal lift, but launches are so much harder (and faster) than last year. I still easily over power the tires though.

    Tires are Hoosier 26x9.50x15" QTP's DOT's. 12 lbs of air. DOT's needed for the Friday night street race class. Supposed to be the next best thing to a drag radial when used on a stick shift car.
     
  14. :cool:
     
  15. Sweet Denis! I might have to look into those Hoosiers! Also, what size rim are you running, and inner tubes or no?
     
  16. The rims are 7" wide--the tires would work best with 8"ers. I run a passenger car tube (vs. racing) to maintain air pressure in the tires should they remain on the car for longer periods. Never tried them without.
     
  17. i just bought my 67 mustang about a month ago and it was used for drag racing it had a full roll cage. 390 bigblock but i dont know what rear end the had in it they but a new one it so they could drive it every day but i know it ran 1/4 mile in high 9's low 10s
     
  18. Wow, thanks or correcting my my labeling of my cage, um roll bar....

    I'm sure everyone was at their wits end with me......

    PS - I sold my car equipped with the 6 point roll bar today for $21K..... Now I'm going to build a 64 Fairlane with a cage.......
     
  19. relax man. Sure it wasn't a pop shot, he even complimented right after it. Kinda touhy about the roll bar aren't ya ?
     

  20. Is there a reason why your so upset? I was just correcting it because some people might get confused that dont know. It really not a big deal.

    The car is great, nothing wrong at all. I would do the same setup for a DD as well and im really considering picking up another fastback.

    Jason