My karmf's are getting better except for at idle. What is different at idle. I've been adding fuel to the fuel stabilized table and seems to help under acceleration. But at Idle the karmf readings are exactly the same.
Thanks,
Tom
Thanks,
Tom
karmf
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blksn955.o
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IIRC there are a few idle specific tables (might have been the fox stuff though). You might want to try messing with your transfer downlow or the slope instead of the table. Remember one of the slopes is mainly for idle so maybe cutting it back will help. I would just mess with the transfer/slope as they are more important than the table (or should be setup as best as can be before messing with the tables)
I really have not had any issues with driveabiltiy/idle at all though so I really have not messed with it...all my issues have been WOT.
I really have not had any issues with driveabiltiy/idle at all though so I really have not messed with it...all my issues have been WOT.
Well Tom
At idle and light load cruise conditions, many things can come into play as you are in C L which means most sensors are being used for optimum af ratio.
I'd start off with the mechanical stuff first
I see no inj's, or maf so I guess you are still using the oem stuff
I don't know if it would be wise to invest a lot of time in finding a stable C L
tune cause IMHO, 19's are not enough to feed your combo. When you move
up to larger inj's, you most likely will have to redo some of those efforts.
anyway .... I'd look into these things in this order ... generally speaking
Dizzy at 10 and fuel pressure at oem value or just remove the afpr.
Make sure you got no v leaks, exhaust leaks, faulty wiring connections, etc
Make sure your maf and isc are clean and functioning correctly.
Look into the relationship between tb blade opening and tb bleed screw
Now for the pcm
I'd then start off looking at:
tb airflow scalar
isc neutral idle air flow function
Here are other things that can be used to obtain a stable idle:
inj slopes
inj breakpoint
inj offsets
After all the above ... you may need a slight tweecing to the maf curve at
the points at and around idle.
As you most likely already know ... You watch your K's for verification of
your tweecs.
You can find info about these topics on this site and EEC Analyzer has very
good info as well.
Grady
At idle and light load cruise conditions, many things can come into play as you are in C L which means most sensors are being used for optimum af ratio.
I'd start off with the mechanical stuff first
I see no inj's, or maf so I guess you are still using the oem stuff
I don't know if it would be wise to invest a lot of time in finding a stable C L
tune cause IMHO, 19's are not enough to feed your combo. When you move
up to larger inj's, you most likely will have to redo some of those efforts.
anyway .... I'd look into these things in this order ... generally speaking
Dizzy at 10 and fuel pressure at oem value or just remove the afpr.
Make sure you got no v leaks, exhaust leaks, faulty wiring connections, etc
Make sure your maf and isc are clean and functioning correctly.
Look into the relationship between tb blade opening and tb bleed screw
Now for the pcm
I'd then start off looking at:
tb airflow scalar
isc neutral idle air flow function
Here are other things that can be used to obtain a stable idle:
inj slopes
inj breakpoint
inj offsets
After all the above ... you may need a slight tweecing to the maf curve at
the points at and around idle.
As you most likely already know ... You watch your K's for verification of
your tweecs.
You can find info about these topics on this site and EEC Analyzer has very
good info as well.
Grady
I'd think a 190 pump and 24's would be more suitable for what you now got.
Remember, you tune at only 39lbs of pressure
so
19's really won't feed much additional hp
Ford doing 24's on the Cobra kinda shows the same reasoning IMHO
Now ... if you wanna do some more things like cam, tb, maf, and the like as
most do with a NA h/c/i combo and shoot for 300 to the wheels or a
bit better ... then I'd go with a 255 intank pump and 30's
Grady
