Since I got my 418 running I've noticed a knock every once in a while from the top end. It's only there sometimes at idle, and it sounds like it's possibly coming from a rocker. Well I thought readjusting the rockers should fix it, but I'm lazy and didn't really want to do that so I put it off. The engine ran fine so I didn't think it was really hurting anything. Last week I got my new starter and installed it. I had to remove the passenger side header to get to the starter. After everything was back together, I noticed an exhaust leak and a whistling sound. I fixed the exhaust leak but it was still whistling. Back to the knocking, while I was trying to find the source of the whistling noise I noticed the knocking again. I just happened to glance at the tensioner pulley and noticed it was jumping a little and hitting the stop every time I heard the knock. At least it's nothing serious, and I can live with it like this. But, what would cause this? Should I try a shorter belt? SO, if anyone else has bypassed their smog pump and has some possible valvetrain noise, check your tensioner first. Anyways, last week was pretty good. I fixed my starter problem, and my oil leak in the process. I found out my knocking sound is not a major problem. BUT, my whistling sound turned out to be the TOB Im guessing. I just hope it can survive until winter when I'll hopefully be installing a TKO 600. Im at just over 320 miles so far and the T-5 is still holding up, even after 167K of abuse.
Damn man you had me scared for a little bit there. Im glad things arent too bad with any of that. Your car rocks.
get an idler puller for where your smog pump was and it won't put that extra stress on your idler pulley. also it sounds like your idler is shot.
I have my smog pump deleted and run a short belt, and the tensioner takes up the slack just fine, without knocking or anything. What size belt did you use? Mine is an 88.8" I THINK. Don't remember for sure though.
I have idea why it's jumping. It's not moving very much at all, but it's just enough to make some noise. I can't remember the length of my belt...I cut my old belt to fit, measured it, then went a 1/2" shorter to allow for the tensioner. Should I go another 1/2" shorter? I think one problem is that the 351 is wider than the 302, so the belt is angled differently from the alternator to the crank pulley...
When measuring for a short belt, you're supposed to hold the tensioner at halfway and take a measurement. You might wanna remeasure just to check it. When referring to the 351 as being wider, you mean the deck is taller, so the top is spaced further apart right? I thought that was the only main difference in a 302/351 block. So does the alternator sit further up on the engine face than a regular 302?
Yeah, I think the accessories sit a little higher than the 5.0, and they are definitely farther apart. After looking at this pic, http://highoutputgt.homelinux.net/images/latest/100_0740.JPG, I don't think that's an issue. Looks like the belt is just a little too long to me. If you look close, you can see the tensioner resting against the stop. Could that cause belt slippage, leading to my occasional charging problem and running hot?
The knocking of the tensioner is a comon problem when theres no smog pump pulley. I tried all the different size belts to make it just right, but it just never was. One would be too small, then the other would seem to work great, once it got hot and stretched the tensioner would be knocking again. Best way to fix it is a smog pump delete pulley.
I have the same problem when i bypassed my smog,I stuck a tiny piece of velcro(one side is sticky and the other side has the carpet texture on it,this is rigged I know but it does away with the chattering and is not hardly noticeable.
Hell, I gave my smog pump delete pulley to my dad when I pulled the old 5.0. :damnit: Oh well, I can live with it like that as long as it's not causing any other problems...
