ok, well replaced the sending unit, and no difference, put a new fan/clutch and now the temperature comes down but still hangs close to the 250 mark at idle ..... ut it comes down and never did that before, so i am really going with bad radiator........ but my next issue is oil pressure..., maybe coincidence or not? after replacing the oil press-sending unit, it had a hard time starting and stumbled....but then ran fine, i drove it around town fine pressure needle on 0 and goes to 0 immediately after the engine gets warmed up enough to move the temp gauge...so it starts at the R (noRmal) mark and goes to 0. i grounded the wire and did key on and the gauge went all the way up....thats why i replaced the unit, but actually worse than any better....so im guess this means bottom end trouble,,,,i am going to hook up a cheapo mechanical to see what im at as far as pressure, but i think the oil pump quit... last but not least i could not get it to start in the gas station, it kept spinning over, but nothing, i hear the fuel pump buzzing,,,,,,i let it cool off, and finally it fired up, much like a carb'd motor...it then runs fine,,,,now the fuel pump is no longer making the signature high pitch buzzing but kind of like a low pitch grind... im pissed,upset,and broke....what to do... ps. and a for sale sign is looking nice
edit: installed a sunpro mechanical and i'm running at 15-25psi of oil pressure warm at idle and the most i saw was almost 28-30 @ 5k.... ............. so i guess its bearings and oil pump time....i need recommendations for parts etc. i want to do this right the first time....do i have to remove the tranny to get the oil pan out...can bearing be done from underneath the car???what brand/size do i need... also was wondering if running some 20w-50 would help, or maybe since i was overheating the engine oil is way to thin???!?!?!? any ideas or suggestions are always welcomed... jsut give me a starting point, before i sell this car....(NEVER!!!!!!!!)
come on guys i need some advice i kind of figure doing a main rod bearing job is impossible from under the car...and i am searching around to read that even removing the pan for a oil pump is a PITA.....if i pull the motor, the car is going into complete overhaul mod.....clean up the bay a little and freshen up the whole motor..... but at the same time i cannot afford this!!!! so it might just be thicker oil and cross my fingers, or just shutdown the car for a long long time......i have been reading that just a new pump might not solve a low oil pressure problem, and i would hate to do that much work and have no positive results...im still waiting for responses on what to do or opinions to at least start a blue print...
okay, for those that care; i put in some 20w50 gtx.....got to 50-55psi cold, then still about 25-30psi warm but now when i rev it from 3k-5k its moves up to 50psi....( really like the mechanical gauge ) that is a big difference,at this point I'm really just going to ride it out...if i continue to get 25-30psi at warm idle and 50psi revving/cruising then i cant complain @ 156k... i still however need a new rad and appears to me a overflow tank to defeat my slight overheating problem....... and oh yah, when i opened my hood to my surprise a nice 100+ fireant family with eggs in the fins and on my intake.........now they are in the car somewhere, any ideas of a place to check/spray..
IIf you are replacing the bearings you need to pull the motor. I just changed my oil pump and oil pan gasket a few days ago. It took me about 8 hours by myself. You just jack up the motor put blocks of wood between the motor mount and the chassis. Then just take off the pan. If you have an air ratchet it will save your life. Also get the 1 piece gasket, it comes with these handy little pins that hold the gasket and pan up while you put the bolts back on. You dont need to remove the oil pan to change the pump. If you want to remove the pan you need to take off the rack and pinion. I couldnt get the engine high enough to slip the pan out w/o removing the rack. If you just lower the pan you have plenty of room to change the pump. The pressure you are describing though seems normal.
yeah after changing the oil i get semi normal oil pressure as long as i maintain 25psi at warm idle im good, and 50psi cold start is good..(Although i still get lifter tick on the pass side) i want to fix my stock guage though as i discovered that the needle must be broken/bent, it does not rest on 0 but rather about a 1/2 inch below it, and when i ground the guage wire it only goes to the R- or M, so when it is at the A or L (low) while driving it really should be at the middle of the normal mark..... i guess i will put some white gauge face plates while i'm in there.. and any suggestions as where to run the mechanical gauge tube through to inside the car,i cant find any good spots... ps. mob; why did you change your pump? im uner the impression that if my mains are worn a new oil pump wont do much if anything at all?
do you know your exact oil pressure,notice any increase if so??.... just a question can timing effect oil pressure?
will timing effect the water temp, cause i am expereinicn the weirdest overheating issues...... it will never go to the top of the gauge but the temp is high, then it comes down to about 150,then sometimes stays, no matter if im idling to crusing, i was on the highway doing 65mph and it was overheating pulled off into mild traffic and it was fine???? idk whats going on,
