I know mac quality isn't the best but for anyone running mac longtubes, hows the over all fit? I have heard that one of the primaries on the drivers side goes in between the steering shaft? Was that a PITA? I'm looking for a decent 1 3/4" longtube header and mac offers a 3" collector which I need as I need to run a 3" mid pipe. I may just end up getting bbk's and opening up the collector best I can. All the mac stuff i've ever had I can honestly say fit fine and I had zero isses with but I have heard other-wise about their headers. If I go with mac headers i'll most likely get the ceramic coated ones for $399. I may pick up some por 15 high temp paint and paint them but I gotta call por15 and ask if that'll work.
I can't advise on the 3/4 fitment, because i've got the 5/8s, but they fit like a glove, reguardless of what anyone says. You do have to remove the steering shaft but that's not a big deal. No grinding on motor mounts, no hammering pipes, but you do have to unbolt the motor mounts and jack up the motor to get them in easily. As for quality...if you're tight on cash then you can't beat'em unless you find something better that's used. Personally, this is my 3rd set and i'm tired of them rusting after a year's use. I'm going ceramic coating and solid flange next time.
I've got the MAC 1-3/4" longtube headers on my 'stang. They fit like $$it! First and foremost, I couldn't bolt the starter in because it was rubbing on one of the passenger side tubes. Removal of the header and heating/beating ensued to cure this problem. I then attempted to install the driver's side. Removal of the steering shaft is a must because it slides between two of the header tubes. Once this was reinstalled, I couldn't turn the steering wheel because the factory rag joint in the steering shaft was hitting both of the tubes. Heating/beating of those tubes was something that I did not want to do (because I had already done that on the passenger side) so I purchased the Flaming River steering shaft. This fits in there perfect. For what it's worth, my brother and I rebuilt my entire car from the ground up and this was the biggest problem that encountered. If I knew that the $329.00 headers needed a $180.00 steering shaft, I would have went with a different pair. Their off-road H-pipe and 2-1/2" cat back system fit fine and would use those pieces again.
Thats what i'm worried about. I do NOT want to be heating sh it up and bending to fit. I had zero problems with my 1 5/8" bbk longtubes. I think i'm just gonna get bbk 1 3/4" and grind the collector open as best I can since its barely 2.5" out of the box. Then i'm gonna run a 3" vrs X pipe since unfortunatly they dont make H-pipes My motor and tranny are out of the car so the headers will drop in just fine. I just dont wanna deal with any fitament issues.
i've only heard of rubbing on the steering shaft in if the motor mounts are worn out. if they are solid and firm the motor will not "sag" causing the headers to rest on the steering shaft. good luck with your choice mike, either way we'll make a set work for the car.
I've heard this too, but on my car I would have to rule this out. I had brand new Energy Suspension engine and transmission mounts that were installed at the same time. As a side note, if you can find a set of older MAC 1-3/4" longtubes, they will fit fine. My twin brother bought his set 8-9 years ago and the steering shaft did not have to slide between the two header tubes. That's why I bought them in the first place. Somewhere along the line they changed them to the newer style, where the steering shaft was positioned between the two tubes (of course, this was the style that I received.) Why did they have to take a product that was functional in both fit and finish and then change it to the POS design that I bought?
hey hissing cobra i have a quick question for u. i mocked up my mac 1 3/4's on my car and i had to take the steering shaft out. i bolted them on to my heads and checked for clearence, turned the wheel and everything and nothing was rubbing. but maybe i just wasnt paying that close of attention. when i get my new heads i will try this again but anyways, what does that flaming river steering shaft do, or what so different about it that makes it not rub on the header. if i end up having to get this, i dont have to change out the whole steering rack right cause i no that goes for like $500. thanx
I have there 1 5/8 on my car and the fit really wasn't bad but I did have to dent one of the header tubes to make enough clearance for the steering shaft.
Good questions. If you've mocked them up and nothing rubs, then you may have gotten lucky. Did you try to bolt your starter in too? Anyway, the Flaming River Steering shaft is basically two U-joints and an aluminum shaft. There is no rag joint like the factory unit. Because of this, It's a lot thnner and will clear better (click on link below to find it's picture.) If you buy one, you will not have to change the steering rack. I was able to use my existing rack. Either way, good luck! http://www.flaming-river.com/racks2.htm
heey than alot. that cleared things up really easy. yes i did bolt the stock starter on there. it did hit but i went out and bought a mini starter and wrapped my headers up with header wrap so i should have any problems with heat soaking. when the new heads show up i will double check for clearence again, but when im turing the wheel what should i look for. is it just goin to be rubbing all the time or just a a certain point. thanx o yah one more thing. am i goin to have to by anything else to install this. in case i do need it? or will the shaft drop rite in with no problems jorge
Once everything is bolted in and the car is resting on it's wheels, turn the steering wheel. If the wheel doesn't want to turn, or only turns a little bit before stopping, it's probably hitting. Centered in the middle of the factory steering shaft is a "rag joint". This piece is a lot wider than the shaft itself and on my car anyways, was hitting two of the header tubes. If this happens on your's, you may be able to bang them in (if you want to) or buy the Flaming River kit. If you opt for the kit, you won't need to purchase anything else. It's a direct bolt in.
Wow sounds like all of you have problems with the new design of the mac's. Looks like bbk it is Bobby- mac now offers a ceramic coating as an option over their crap hts coating. You can also get jet hot coated mac's from jet hot or any jet hot dealer.
awsome, thanks! so for hlong tubes with an AOD, whats better, Mac or BBK> does BBK make longtubes for an AOD?!?! thanks!
Old Style MAC I just found a set of older style MAC long tubes... I knew that these are the ones that fit good, they are not an easy find but its worth trying to find a set. Can't wait to get them on the car.
All the BBK's I've had experience with have fit very well. The only 2 gripes I have about them is the smaller collector (which can be opened up) and that they hang a little low under the car (not too big a deal unless you car sits really low). The 1 peice flange makes bolt alignment a breeze compared to the MAC's. This is a great benefit if you ever have to pull the headers off and put them back on. The question isn't really if you ever take them off its when. I also noticed the BBK's have thicker tubing and are quieter in the engine bay. The MAC's thin wall tubing seem to echo through the tubing making them louder under the hood.
I had 1 5/8 longtubes on my old 87gt aod, and I have 1 5/8 longtubes on my 95 5spd, no problems on my 95, I use the stock starter and everything, but on my 87 it was really close to my starter. I think the starter failed because of this, so we used header wrap to see if that would help, I didn't have any future problems, but I wrecked the car soon after, so I didn't get much more testing time.
