I found a company to get the panels but this one has most of them welded I believe. Haven't dug into it much yet waiting for the shop to get built. I'm just cheap so I'm building it myself.
Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches
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- Dec 19, 2010
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Things to come.hah traded for a set of contacts!
we have the same prescription. (Dad)
Now I need an elbow @hoopty5.0 what did you use?
@84Ttop do you think the stock rails will fit? Or any suggestions?
Cool! That didn't take long.
My helper just bought a '69 bus.
First thing he did was drop the engine and rebuild it. The engine looks great now and runs like a top.
He had to strip the whole front end of the bus, it had about four or five pounds of bondo on it from the PO.
I have replacement panels there is no saving most of them. The main structure looks good, superficial rust on the roof and pillars.
OK guys need some help here. Took the car out for a drive today it ran great. Right up until I stopped at a store then the car wouldn't start. Kind of slow to crank over so I checked Spark the spark seemed weak. I know the TFI can be an issue with heat soak but the distributor has less than 500 miles on it. I got it to start by letting it roll down the hill and popping the clutch so that tells me the TFI is not fully to blame only on restart I guess my question is could this also be the coil going bad? Luckily I was Data logging the entire Drive the megasquirt doesn't control dwell time or cranking dwell the TFI is still in control of all of that I was seeing 200 + milliseconds of dwell on crank the normal run dwell is around 3 - 5 milliseconds. Is there something else I should check that would cause the car to crank slow on hot restart and cause weak spark?
stang89bidges
Advanced Member
Slow crank, or slow to start? If the engine cranked slowly then that's usually battery/ground/wire issue. TFI and coil don't control those right? Unless they are causing a short maybe but this sounds more like battery, alt, starter, or wiring to these and ground.
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stang89bidges
Advanced Member
stang89bidges
Advanced Member
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/index.php?threads/787471/
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Went through and added a few more grounds including one directly to the starter that helps with the hot slow crank issue. Now I need to go through and see if the coil gets 12 volts on the blue wire with a red line during crank condition. The TFI module is new so I'm going to try replacing this street fire MSD coil anyone have a good option for replacement coil
stang89bidges
Advanced Member
I've always heard(and researched) the MSD Blasters are the way to go. I currently use the Street Fire myself. Probably 1 yr old. Still kicking. And I have it combined with a MSD 6a.
EDIT: I have also heard the OEM coil does really well itself. A lot of guys swear by them. The other half say MSD Blaster.
My .02
EDIT: I have also heard the OEM coil does really well itself. A lot of guys swear by them. The other half say MSD Blaster.
My .02
After I got home today I tested the resistance to ground from the two batteries the resistance was less than .2 ohms that's pretty good. Next was to check the battery voltage resting I drove the car for about 50 miles yesterday without any significant load except for the cooling fan the resting voltage was 12.67. Usually that's not terrible but both of my batteries combined I have a 136 amp hours where the 240 Reserve capacity both these big batteries we're drained down to around 60%. I had my wife give me a hand after she got home I tested the voltage during cranking at the battery 11.6 just getting her to climb into the car as a chore so I didn't bother trying to test it at the starter solenoid both batteries are in the trunk I just put them on charge I'm going to let this go overnight when I get home tomorrow I'll take the car down and have the alternator checked I have this unnerving feeling that when I pulled it apart and powder-coated the case I may have damaged it when I put it back together.
stang89bidges
Advanced Member
There you go, getting closer. Sounds like your on the right path now.
Like I mentioned before, since you said slow crank, then that means the power that turns that engine, is hindered for some reason. That power is battery. So the battery itself or the wires feeding it and the starter have to be the issue. Only other possibility is a frozen/damaged motor but we know that's not the case here.
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Like I mentioned before, since you said slow crank, then that means the power that turns that engine, is hindered for some reason. That power is battery. So the battery itself or the wires feeding it and the starter have to be the issue. Only other possibility is a frozen/damaged motor but we know that's not the case here.
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Or too much cranking timing...... you never know.lol it's the last thing to check on the list. If I get her to start right (the 350A fuse from the trunk to solenoid has started turning blue= no Bueno) and she still does not hot start then I will give up and throw my distributor away and go COP.
Hell,...I think somebody else needs a nickname around here. If mine is "Do it twice Mike" (which should be modified to "Do it over Mike", because I'm doing it more than two times.)
So,..in the spirit of things I'm nominating you for the next nickname.
I'll leave it up to the other guys to come up with it,....But "Too much is never enough" Steve comes to mind.
OK the results of today's alternator test was....... that I don't trust the kid who ran the test. No printout, no numbers for me, just the voltage was only 13.7 with a full load on the system..... wtf? An alternator can produce voltage without current, so a different place I will go.
The batteries both test fantastic however, we disconnected one of them to run the test and the car almost didn't start, wtf? Now I need to go through and see if any of these years old connections have gone bad, 850cca should start my car just fine. Maybe the issue is at the fuse block I put in the main battery feed, I didn't like the feel of that thing from the get go.
One day I will drive this car carefree..... one day.
The batteries both test fantastic however, we disconnected one of them to run the test and the car almost didn't start, wtf? Now I need to go through and see if any of these years old connections have gone bad, 850cca should start my car just fine. Maybe the issue is at the fuse block I put in the main battery feed, I didn't like the feel of that thing from the get go.
One day I will drive this car carefree..... one day.