New Clutch Install "home installation"

Discussion in 'SN95 4.6L Mustang' started by tonys5.0, May 5, 2008.

  1. tonys5.0 New Member

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    I decided to do my own clutch install just for the experience and because I don't need to use my car anytime soon.
    I drive a 2004 mustang gt and I'm replacing my stock clutch with a new centerforce dfx, new release bearing, pilot bearing and seal. I'm having a local facility resurface my old flywheel.

    Ok, so far with everything out of the way I'm down to removing the manual transmission. The Haynes manual shows there are 3 bolts on the left and 2 on the right of where the transmission connects to the engine. It says and shows nothing about 2 bolts located at the top.
    With all 5 bolts removed I still cannot slide the transmission back and out of the car.

    Are there 2 bolts at the top that the Haynes manual is not telling me about or do I need a pry bar to "unseal" the transmission from the engine? I thought that once all bolts were removed these transmissions slide pretty easily?
  2. Dragstr05 New Member

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    Sometimes you do need to persuade them a little with a prybar...
  3. evil281 New Member

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    Do not use a prybar just yet!!! I just changed mine out 3 weeks ago, the guide is wrong, it shows the 3 on the left and two one the right but there are two bolts one on each side above the tranny, u can feel around and find them, they are tough to get but i did it with a swivelhead wrench, just enough room to get them out although may cut up ur hands a bit to get them, also when pulling the tranny out ur gona wana tilt it to the side so the bellhousing wont get stuck on the firewall, took me a few hours to find that out. any other question hit me up
  4. snowb07 New Member

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    put in the two most bottom bolts before trying to take out the top bolts. If you start to strip the top bolts with a normal universal, go get a impac one they have more turning radius. you might be able to get to them from the top behind the intake if you have a long wrench and a friend guide it on from the bottom.

    for the pilot bearing you can try the grease and a socket trick or go rent a pilot bearing removal tool. no auto shops around me had it but Taylor rental did. best $6 dollars I spent.
  5. tonys5.0 New Member

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    Awesome! Thanks guys!
  6. rabidscoobie New Member

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    Yeah I had the same problem last year,the 2 bolts at the top that haynes dosent tell,but Haynes also says that there are only 2 bolts for the starter,but there are 3.And as for the pilot bearing....it just fell out when I removed the flywheel.
  7. ceracer33 New Member

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    like stated there are two bolts on the top of the trans. i have found that the easiest way to get to them is to support the crank pulley on the front of the engine with a jack stand or something. place a jack on the back of the trans, unbolt the trans crossmember and lower the jack to let the trans down. get some extensions grouped together and u can easily go right up the top of the trans and u can easily get the top two bolts out.
  8. SonicStangGT New Member

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    I just used a wrench, took a minute but I got them out. Good luck on the install
  9. BobHyatt New Member

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    There are three on the driver's side, two on the passenger side, two up on top that require some long extensions and a u-joint, and the two on the very bottom that go in from the front thru the dust shield. You need to have nine bolts in your hand before you start prying or it is going to get real expensive, real quick. :)

    Easiest way to get at them is to remove the crossmember under the tranny (you have to remove this anyway to pull the tranny out). Then lower the tranny while attached to the motor and you can look up over the tranny from the rear and see both the bolts. They also pass thru an annoying steel bracket that is used to hold the O2 conectors up out of the way...
  10. SVT32VDOHC waiting for the next hack atta

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    I just ordered a clutch and I except it tomorrow. I was wondering the same thing, but see my 4.6L and T-45 transmission is in a fox body. I hope that their is enough room in that car to get the top bolts out.
  11. rugster New Member

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    1. Drop exhaust out of the way
    2. Unplug speed sensor, clutch cable, and any other wiring that may be zip tied to Transmission
    3. Remove shifter
    4. Remove G load Brace
    5. Remove Trans cross-member
    6. Transmission Bolts: 2 Bolts on top, 2 bolts on bottom, 3 bolts on starter, 3 bolts on left, 2 bolts on right.
    7. Should slide right out

    P.S. Don't put that 3rd starter bolt back in, you'll thank yourself later.

    Thats all from memory so hopefully that should do it.....Good luck
  12. snowb07 New Member

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    I would add drain fluid or you will get soaked. ..
  13. SVT32VDOHC waiting for the next hack atta

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    You don't like wearing used ATF?? hehe...My buddy and I dropped a Cherokee Tcase, and he wore it!!! I felt bad, but ish happens....
  14. rugster New Member

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    I always just cap it off with a rubber glove.....unless it needs a change, there's no reason to drain it.
  15. tonys5.0 New Member

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    I finally got the top 2 transmission bolts loose and pulled the transmission out of the car last night. What a pita that was. I had to lower both the engine and transmission in order to clear the tunnel and slide it out. Here's a picture of my car sitting on 4 - 3 1/2 ton jack stands with a hydraulic jack supporting the engine. I rolled the transmission out under the front left fenderwell.

    I'm elated that I got the thing out on my own. I guess the real excitment begins when I try to put the thing back in.

    Anyone ever try using an air compressor to remove the release bearing? Seems i've heard this somewhere before.

    [IMG]
  16. snowb07 New Member

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    good job getting out yourself, I did mine with no help also so I understand the work behind it. you will feel much better once it is all together and you drive it.
    just another tip though. when you get to put the tranny back in you are going to need another body. the last 1-2inches is very tuff and the trick it to have someone press and release the clutch a few times.
  17. tonys5.0 New Member

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    Thanks for the advice!
    Question... were you able to re-attach those 2 brakets that go between the top 2 bolts and engine? Believe it or not out of everything i've done so far, that's the only thing I can't get out of my head.
  18. tonys5.0 New Member

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    Question....

    So far I got the transmission less than 1/2 inch into the block. I'm doing this by myself and I can't seem to get enough leverage to completely slide it the rest of the way in ("what she said"). I started 2 bolts on the left and 2 on the right. Can I use the bolts at this point to help pull the transmission the rest of the way on by lightly tighting them in a star shapped pattern or is this a bad ideal?

    HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)
  19. rabidscoobie New Member

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    You do not want to let the bolts pull the tranny in....that can cause damage to the disk and possibly the splines.Hopefully you are supporting the tranny with a jack as to not put excessive pressure on the shaft or clutch.

    Sometimes the tranny can be stubborn about going in all the way.Sometimes you need to kinda rotate the tranny side to side.You did use a clutch alignment tool right?Sometimes lifting on the rear of the tranny will get the right angle.Maybe someone else on here knows a better way than me.
  20. tonys5.0 New Member

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    Yes I did use the alignmenty tool. I did everything by the book. In fact right after I posted my question I wne tback out to the garage and got the transmission to go the rest of the way in. My conscience wouldn't let me use the bolts to pull the tranny the rest of the way in so what I did was lay on my back, grab hold of the rear diff with my two hands and use my two feet to push on the back of the tranny. I used little effort and the transmission clunked right in.

    I hooked up my cable and put my shifter back on. All gears shift and the clutch pedal feels fine.

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