Alright I got a 2.3l turbo engine in my garage in parts. What would be the best way to rebuild this engine? Ive read that porting the head and such and getting a bigger turbo are all options, i did a quick check on Turbofords.org, but havent gotten any names or numbers. Any information would be great! thanks!
The best way to rebuild it is to just...rebuild it. Check bore taper with one of the old rings, check out the crank...if the block doesn't need bored, don't. If the stock pistons are good, reuse them. Get the crank journals polished. The regular Fel-Pro gasket kit, main & rod bearings, and piston rings from the parts store are just fine for a streetgoing engine. I would recommend buying The Engine Builder's Handbook, search for it on amazon. It's geared more toward V8's but there is tons of good info in there. What else do you wanna know? What are your goals for the engine?
well my goal for the engine is to have fun really. id like to be able to get as much hp as possible within a reasonable budget. i figured it would be easier to add any engine mods while the engine is still in peices. lol.. and more suggestions? oh yeah, this is still going to be my daily driver, id just love to be able to beat any ricer on the streets with it thats all. lol.
What kinda budget? I built the engine that is currently in my thunderbird on about a $1500 budget. That was enough for me to get the basic rebuild stuff, plus a Bob's Log manifold, front mount intercooler, reman turbo center section, head studs, and some other stuff. Of course I did a lot of work myself, like making the windage tray, porting the head & intake, etc. And it is easier to add stuff while the engine is on a stand. 250 hp is easily attainable on a budget rebuild, in fact if you can run enough boost you don't even need to port the head. I'm personally only running about 16-17 psi right now (still on the stock fuel pump and I don't wanna blow a head gasket either).
If your on a budget i wouldnt waste money there....the biggest thing for you to think about now is......Build a good foundation for the future i would use atleast clevite bearing(rod/Main)....150$ melling HV oil pump 60$ Arp rod bolts and main studs 120$ total seal rings 130$ Felpro 1035 head gasket 50$ and some arp head studs then you dont have to tear into the block later when you want to run 25psi with a shot of nitrous because your dip stick is blowing out. You dont even have to run anything fancy right now.It's up to you i just hate pulling motors............
Getting the crank journals polished (for $35) would be a lot less of a waste than a high volume oil pump, which isn't necessary and is a good way to chew up some aux shaft/distributor gears. Main studs aren't really necessary either.
ok... alright guys thanks for all of that. my budget thus far isnt set yet, but i dont plan to put the engine in my car untill around october that gives me plenty of time to do this rebuild. when i acutally start working on the engine (after i get a to-do list created) its going to be on an engine stand while i work on it. knwoing that, is there any other mods or whatnot that can help me get the most HP for my buck. when i say budget also, 1500 is fine, but i dont plan on spending like 2k on a part...you know what i mean? lol, thanks again guys
If the cylinder taper is acceptable, keep your stock pistons and go with this, it's the most economical rebuild kit out there.......... http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=2900 I would also have the pistons balanced. They've been known to be way off from the factory. Cheap insurance and helps with motor longevity. Buy a Melling M86E oil pump and put it in........... http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MEL-M86E&N=115&autoview=sku Your money can best be spent on air and fuel induction and exhaust. The largest chunck of cash should be put into the head. Check Boport over on www.turboford.net. He's on the left coast but does awesome head work at great prices. He starts at $200 and goes up according to the work done. Get a large VAM and browntop injectors from an '87-'88 TC along with the LA series computer. $200 or so should get you an excellent conditon T3. Find a good E6 exhaust manifold and port it or go with a Bob's log, 3" downpipe and exhaust. Ranger roller or A234 cam and adj cam sprocket. AFPR and a 255 lph fuel pump will keep it from going lean. Get a good FMIC and you'll be pushing 300 h.p. easily! BTW, check my webpage. I'm doing the swap in an '89 'vert. Good luck!
cool cool....thanks so far for all the info. the head i got for the engine is brand new and rebuilt so it should be ok, ill look into the injectors and such. Im getting a new exhaust put on the stang in about 2 weeks (maybe 3 ill see) im thinking Dynomax cayse i heard it was ok for a turbostang (even though it isnt turbo as of yet...) i heard stay away from Flowmaster becayse of the chambered exhaust, and ideas on a good exhuast brand would help. i was thinking also of 3" downpipe going to dual 2.5" pipes, i know a single 3" would flow better, but i was thinking the dual 2.5" would look better...any ideas on that? i heard that a turbo off of a turbo diesel would bolt unto the 2.3 engine...so i was going to look into that, heard it made more boost than the stock turbo out of the TC. the VAM out of the 88 TC would be adaquate enough? or should i look into a different one? the LA series computer comes out of the 88 TC right? if not what car can i get the computer from? i already go the roller cam outta a 93 2.3 it should be the same as the ones outta a ranger right? and where can i aquire the adj. cam sprocket? and one last thing? whats an AFPR? sorry for all the questions i just want to make sure i do this right, you know? lol my brother just got an 87 Firebird with a 350 (automatic) and i would love to be able to beat him with my lil 2.3 Mustang. ~matt one more thing...i want your valve cover evintho
why use a bolt when you could use a stud?? specially with something as important as a main cap??? plus studs distribute torque better plus i chose a HV oil pump so i could run a aftermarket oil kooler and still keep good pressure. shreding oil pump shafts/dizzy gears is a wifes tale IMO....im just stating what i did on MY motor due to what i know works...not out to argue........
Matt, I would stay away from the high-volumn oil pumps. Plenty of documentation over on TF about that, besides it's gonna be a daily driver. An M86E is a stock SVO pump, it'll provide more than enough oil pressure. The head is the biggest logjam on our 2.3's. It may be rebuilt but there's gobs of untapped power in there! Some simple bowl reworking and unshrouding of the valves is gonna really open up the mixture path. If you want power, I would seriously consider dumping some money into the head! Dynomax Ultraflow is what you want, unless you like alot of noise then use their race muffler. 3" down split into 2.5" duals will work just fine. '87-'88 TC's came with IHI turbos. I suggest a T3 for now. It's bigger than the IHI's. Get it running right (that's the hard part) and later after you become more familiar with your combo, upgrade to a Holset or equivelant. The VAM from the TC is good for now. You can always upgrade to MAF later. You want the LA2 out of an '87 5-spd TC or the LA3 from the '88 5-spd TC. The difference between the two is so minimal, it'll never make a difference. The roller cam from the '93 should work. I think it may have smaller rocker arms. I don't even know if it makes a difference. Might want to check on that. Adjustable cam gear.......................... http://racerwalsh.zoovy.com/product/RWA1443_SQ AFPR = Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator................ http://www.jdsperformance.com/index.asp?initemuid=147&fcmd=item&inmake=0 Check out MadAdder over on Turboford.net. $125 for that valve cover. Awesome piece of work!
I was told main studs are unnecessary unless you disassemble the bottom end of the engine frequently. And they aren't cheap. I've never heard of people having problems with main caps coming loose so I'm not too worried about it. About the 3" into dual 2.5", that's what I have on my car and yes it does look better. Stinger sells an exhaust kit you can do that with (I actually have one of the first ones he ever made on my car). I have Hooker Maximum Flows which are nice straight-through mufflers and cheaper than the dynomax ultraflows.
