I've been lurking for about a month now and haven't found an answer to my specific question. I just ordered a candy red GT with the 3.73 rear axis package, glass roof and HID. I haven't even received it yet and already caught the bug. Instead of nickel and dimeing myself on small mods I think I'm just going to jump straight to a s/c. I'm looking for a extra boost just so I can beat any other stock car and still plan on using this car to get to and from work. I have about 5k to 6k set aside, what would be the best s/c and is there anything else I should get before I put the s/c in? Thanks
If that $5K-$6K has to include labor and custom dyno tuning, then a centrifugal supercharger (i.e. Paxton Novi 1200 or Vortech V3) will work great without breaking the bank. I have the Vortech standard non-intercooled blower on my '07 GT automatic and went from 300hp stock to 455hp with the blower and dyno tuning. No other engine mods whatsoever. The centrifugals are great for daily driving as they stay out of boost at normal (lower) rpm's. They build boost as rpm's climb, so lay into the throttle and lots of boost is right there to be had. Of course, if you like instant torque, then a roots or twin screw style blower is the answer. But, these cost a couple thousand more than a comparable centrifugal blower and will exceed the budget you mentioned.
I like the roots style blower, and a supercharger will be my first mod as soon as I get the car. I may have to go with the centrifugal because I doubt if the roots will fit under the strut tower brace.
Why not have an FRPP/Whipple factory installed? All the streetable power you'll ever need and you'll retain you full factory warranty to boot.
I love low end tq, so it will never be a centrifugal style supercharger for me. x2 on the whipple route.
The factory strut tower brace will clear the Whipple SC, but not the CAI pipe where it angles down. A little fabrication, and a Dyer or GMC 671 should fit fine!
Hate to be the bearer of bad news, but you do NOT retain the full factory warranty! If you buy the FRPP 550hp intercooled blower you void your powertrain warranty. If you buy the FRPP 400hp non-intercooled blower you drop your powertrain warranty down to 12 months, 12,000 miles from the date of install.
My centrifugal blower (with "no low end tq" as you put it) runs 0-60 mph in 3.7 seconds and 0-100 in 9.9 seconds.
Awesome...and as long as we want to make compromises to the over all drivability of our cars by running 4.10 gears and a race converters with 4,800 RPM stall speed we can all run quick 0-60 times. The fact of the matter remains....you engine still doesn't make horsepower and torque until the mid/upper ranges. Just because you're getting your car into those ranges that much quicker with drivetrain mods, doesn't mean the engine is putting it out any faster. Dyno numbers don't like. Not to mention that you still have to make compromises in fuel economy and drivability to reach that power band and run those times....and that's not something most of us are willing to live with. In my opinion, you shouldn't need to run wide open throttle all of the time on a predominantly street driven car to notice said horsepower improvements...and frankly its not an option with a centrifugal charger. Nobody said centrifugal cars couldn't be made to run fast, but they just can't match the drivability and low end torque production of "any" of the Positive Displacement kits on the market. As far as I know, the warranty is only invalid with the intercooled version of the kit if the car is running an automatic transmission. Also, I've been led to believe that as long as its factory installed, you retain your full warranty period. The 12-month, 12,000-mile warranty are for those wanting to install the blower after the fact from what I understand. And while we're at it...are there "any" centrifugal kits that offer any sort of powertrain warranty on the vehicle at all?
