Hoping someone here with better overall automotive electrical expertise and knowledge of II wiring, can give me a definitive answer here... to the best, easiest and safest place for getting (key) switched power to run an electric choke. I've searched the other forums on this subject, and it seems that the ideal source varies from year to year, depending on wiring. The car in question is a '76 with 302.
power source for electric choke?
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The OE setup is sourced from the back of the alternator.
It provides power only when the alt is turning/generating, thereby presumably preventing damage to the choke coil from overheating (key left on, etc).
I believe there is also a small opening through the OE 2-barrel choke coil housing to the carb venturi to provide fresh air (vacuum?) to help with heat control.
It provides power only when the alt is turning/generating, thereby presumably preventing damage to the choke coil from overheating (key left on, etc).
I believe there is also a small opening through the OE 2-barrel choke coil housing to the carb venturi to provide fresh air (vacuum?) to help with heat control.
IICrazy
taken away
jeffnoel
Founding Member
jeffnoel
Founding Member
Can someone answer me this, if he's on my ignore list why do I still get an email when he responds to a thread?
I believe it's the STA wire. It is white w/black tracer. At idle you only get between 5-8 volts. It will go slightly higher than this but I don't remember how high it gets. This wire is, as was stated before omly hot when the motor is running. That way you cannot burn up the choke element sitting with just the key on.
Tim
Tim
Not that I don't deny the statements about wart.. but come on guys.. its been said before.. does he have to get busted in every thread? I understand sometimes his posts are a little.. rude, but maybe he is tryin to change his rotten ways and become a better person 
, nuff said.
I had my elec. choke ran to my coil ? But I guess that isnt such a good idea..
so thats a no-no
, nuff said. I had my elec. choke ran to my coil ? But I guess that isnt such a good idea..
so thats a no-no
Blue Thunder
Active Member
Replacing that factory cheesy little (3/16" I think?) rotted-off choke heater tube with a stainless part will eliminate further incidents.
Wait, forget I said that. What's a choke again??
Wait, forget I said that. What's a choke again??
cobraii351 said:
Depends on the type of alternator, whether it's a Delta or a Wye, and if the type of meter reads true RMS.
In a Wye the STA power comes from the 'common'. Measuring between legs in a Wye gives system voltage, measuring across any leg to common gives ~ 1/2 system voltage.
In a Delta system STA power is tapped between the diodes of one leg. Also each leg in a Delta creates system voltage. Since STA power is tapped between the diodes this power is half wave rectified so if you put a meter on it and read peak the meter will show system voltage but if the meter is set to read RMS it will show roughly half system voltage, and it will be 'AC'.
Why is this important? Because when a choke doesn't work someone takes their rinkey dink Craftsman $10 special meter to leads and can't get a steady reading, let alone a 12~14 volt reading, they think somethings wrong. So they start the parts changing frenzy.
Another reason this is important is it lets you know why not to run 12 v to the stat housing, unless the element is suppose to be ran from 12 to 14 volts, which our era of Fords aren't suppose to be. At least in stock form. I remember more than one choke housing so hot it would about sear off the skin.
Another important thing, sort of unrelated, is the regulator you get. Idiot Light cars use the STA power to run the field relay. Ammeter cars field relays are ran from the ignition switch. So put a Wye regulator used with an idiot light car in a Ammeter car and wonder why the battery doesn't charge.
Other things, pulsating lights (v limiter) and such, but I've gone far enough OT.
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