I am attempting to install a hurst shifter into my '05 GT and am having a problem removing the bolt that attaches the long arm (I don't know its real name) to the transmission housing. I can't seem to get to it with a ratchet since there is a bump on the underside of the car and it makes it so I can't angle the ratchet correctly and whenever I try to use a wrench it seems like I am just stripping the bolt. I have heard that you may have to lower the transmission, but I would rather not do this as I am unexperienced and really wouldn't know what to do. I was wondering if anyone who has removed this bolt could share any tips, or if I have to lower the transmission could someone provide some steps that I could follow in order to do this. Thank you.
Nevermind, I figured it out. Well since I didn't really need help on the install I guess I will just share me impressions of the shifter. The installation wasn't that bad once I had the right tools and the Hurst shifter bolted into place very easily. As with most things, it was a lot easier putting back together then it was taking apart, but it still took about 3 hours to install since I have never done anything like this before. My initial impressions of the Hurst shifter are very good. The throw is so much shorter and has a much better feel than the rubbery stock shifter. There isn't even that much more transmission noise that some people have been complaining of. Overall I would recommend the Hurst shifter highly. It doesn't look as good as Steeda's, but then again you can't see it so who cares. Plus it is about $100 bucks less which was a big plus to me. I haven't driven in a '05+ Mustang with a Steeda tri-ax in it so I can't compare the two. I do know that I like the Hurst and would recommend it to anyone.
Glad the install went well. If you don't mind me asking, where did you pick it up from? I've looked at a couple of places, but more info is always good. take care, Luis
I bought it from www.rpmoutlet.com for 179.99. This was for the shifter w/o the knob. They have another one for 199.99 that has a knob and a chrome handle, which I personally find stupid since you can't see it but I guess 20 bucks for a knob isn't too bad. On a side note, I took a 3 hour trip home from school today (fall break) and the shifter worked great.
You can't see the shaft if you use the stock knob, since the knob has a ring on it that pulls the shift boot up to the bottom of the knob. If you get the shifter with the white knob or the t-handle, it comes with a rubbery plastic ring that slides down the shaft and holds the boot in place. Here are two pics I borrowed from another forum because I'm too lazy to go take a pic myself. Hurst with stock knob: Hurst with white knob:
Oh, that makes much more sense now. I thought it was really dumb to have a chrome handle if you couldn't see it. Looks good delurker , have you gotten your car back yet?
Heh, I can't take credit for those pics, they are "borrowed" from someone else, mine looks the same, except I'm using the T-handle. I got my car back, but I need to have some additional tuning done. She surges up to 2250 rpm for several seconds when started cold, and has just a small lean hesitation (goes to ~18:1 a/f for a second, according to my WB O2) if I roll easy onto the gas. Once she's warm she runs great, better if I use a lot of throttle. Definitely a noticable increase in power and I'm glad I'm running 285-width tires in the rear because steering with the throttle is easy now. I got 40 more hp on the same dyno after the head porting, water pump, charge motion plates, and headers (and 4.10 gears), but I want to see my numbers on another dyno because they were lower than I expected at the shop that did the work, like 266/275 (hp/tq) before (with CAI and TB) and 306/320 after. I'm sure the gears lost me a few rwhp, but I stil would have expected to see ~290 before/340+ rwhp after. I also pulled my CCM TB because it kept causing the computer to throw codes and go into failsafe. No such issues with the stock TB and Jet TB spacer. I had to go back to the stock mufflers, and I'm going to sell my Bassani's - the long tube headers added some sound. With the long tubes and Bassani cans, she was hella loud.
Was that on a Mustang dyno or a Dynojet? If that was on a Dynojet then your numbers definatley should have been closer to what you were expecting. Also, how do you like the 4.10s (not to hijack my own thread even more or anything, lol).
Unfortunately, it was a Dynojet 248. The tuner showed me a file from another 05 that got like 246 with CAI on it, then 290 on another shop's dyno, so I'm pretty sure it's the dyno, not my car. I love the 4.10's, but it seems the Predator is not loading the gear change properly, as I'm still only seeing ~2500 rpm in 5th when the speedo shows 80 mph. I checked and reloaded the tune, which says 4.09 gear ratio and 771 revs/mile (what the manufacturer says for my rear tires). I can tell it's still reading high, too - I know what 45 mph feels like in this car, and the speedo is reading well into the 50's when I'm there.
"...comes with a rubbery plastic ring that slides down the shaft and holds the boot in place..." This my problem. Put in a Steeda Short-throw, but now the boot is 'sloppy'. Does anyone sell these 'rings' or am I on my own here, to devise something.
I thought that was a weird thing to say. I got the whiteball kit and bought the the old style t handle as well...it's too damn cold today, so I'll install this on Sunday...
Notchy yes, but not "tight". I feel it's a plus and more confidence inspiring when going full tilt boogie--third, especially, is very THERE. And it does go into each gear with a chunk, if that's what you mean by "noisy" but if you're into it and the exhaust is roaring, you don't hear a thing. And there's no noise while cruising: is that what you meant?
