Sn95 Stumped Electrical Tech

[Jacobn4056.]

Hey folks. I have a gremlin to hunt.
I’m not sure if it’s electrical but it’s a check engine light. I have a 1995 Ford Mustang GT convertible 100k miles all original stock equipment.
For the longest time I’ve had a serious problem. While running whether driving or not, and at times intermittently, also almost exclusively at operating temp I have a check engine light pop up and the car looses all power. Idling the car flutters and bumps just barely enough power to run when this happens. I pulled the ccrm and cut it open. I found the board to be burned around the farther right relay if the plug in is facing away from you. From what I’ve saw it is the Low Fan relay. When it blew it stayed in that condition. I replaced the ccrm and have had the same issue on and off. With the new ccrm -When it happens it usually continues until the car sits for a few hours.

It’s not drivable of course. I’ve had input on the problem ranging from the ECT sensor to the distributor. Replacing the distributor was one of the first things I did. I got a distributor that looked as if the ignition module mounts to the distributor. Of course mine is under the air box.
I had someone tell me that there is no crank position sensor in that distributer and that the stock distributor did.
Seemed to be running the car fine when not in its check engine related condition.

I finally got the distributor I wanted in stock and on the way anyway.


My question is what is the problem here.
It seems all things point to a short In the fan harness wiring.
Anybody else have similar experience?
Share your thoughts and experiences

 

[Jacobn4056.]

Update the car is not running hot.

And when the check engine condition that I’ve explained pops up the fan stays on continuously. When key is in the on position. Cranked or not

 

[90sickfox]

You need to rea dtge codes when the check engine lightvis on. There are cheap scanners available online Amazon or eBay. You need a eec iv obd1 tester.

 

[Jacobn4056.]

You need to rea dtge codes when the check engine lightvis on. There are cheap scanners available online Amazon or eBay. You need an eec iv obd1 tester.

That’s Right.. I ordered a digital reader a couple hours ago that you’re talking about. The beeping/flashing box that I tried before wasnt ideal to find a code. But then again back then I did plug it into the abs harness on the drivers side. So half of it with that reader was my fault.

Also fitted with connector under dash for 5 min but reader didn’t plug. I read in my car -the 95 that the plug under dash was a dead addition. Just There already for the next year models when 0BD 2 began.

 

[90sickfox]

Some 95 ford's had obd2. It was a weird year.

 

[Jacobn4056.]

You need to rea dtge codes when the check engine lightvis on. There are cheap scanners available online Amazon or eBay. You need a eec iv obd1 tester.

I just got the car in the carport. A few minutes later the check engine light hit on. Cut it off plugged in my Code reader I bought. Turned it on. Hit test and got no test. Just the 000. I hit test and got no test from the reader.
Check engine light on. Fan on. Fuel pump on I believe. And now that it’s inside the carport I believe I hear the injectors just Squirting. With the engine off. Only with the ignition on.