sorry another thread, but i ordered two 12" type r's today

Z

zeusmoto

New Member
Feb 15, 2004
390
0
0
utah
#1
alright so i ordered them. i hope they were a good investment, i heard two 10's in my friends car. those things hit so hard and clean, i was like yelling and i couldnt even hear myself:) very powerful:)and he says that 12's will hit harder and lower than them so i ordered 2 12's 4+4 ohm. should i have gone for the 2+2ohm subs instead, i might be able to change my order i dont know for sure. i dont know which are better, but i was satisfied with the sound, kinda makes my heart stop with that much bass:) my factory system sucks.

I LOVE BASS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

  • Sponsors (?)


#6
#9
I think you should have gone with the 2+2 ohm subs. This would enable you to then bridge then to 4ohms each and then to 2 ohms together. Although the amp appears to be one ohms stable, after long listening time (sometimes only short listening times) the amp may begin to clip and may also just shut off. Keep in mind also that the subs have been given a NOMINAL impedance. This means the subs might not be exactly 4ohms per coil (usually closer to 3.5). If this turned out to be the case, then bridging to 1ohm would actually be lower and the amp would go into protection.
**Also at 1 ohm the amp has 1% distortion- THAT'S ALOT!! distortion blows subs and that would be a shame :nonono: :notnice:
It's your call, the subs are great, I used to own 2 type R 15", loved 'em.
If you have any other questions just ask and I'll try to help.

Foreigner
 
#10
whats up with that everyone has said that the 4 ohms were fine why wouldnt i go with them? i dont want something to go wrong or not be getting enough bass, i want a nice system that works well
 
#11
what amp do you guys suggest then, i need to get 2 amps a multi and a mono, i am getting hooked up(from my bro) with the kenwoods for 192 a piece, if there is another amp that out performs the kenwoods for about the same price i will do that, if not then what should i do? i want to have the best system, but understand that i get almost 70% off of kenwood stuff so i was originally thinking of them, unless you guys have another amp in mind at about the same cost> that would help a ton also i am ordering these fairly soon so please right back asap

zeus
 
#12
Okay, there is nothing wrong with the amp that you have. It's a great amp and will do you great.
The sub thing - I say get the 2+2 because the wiring options will suit the amp better than the 4+4. With the 4+4 in parallel they will each be 2 ohms, then you have two choices - parallel to get 1 ohm or series to get 4 ohms
Now let's consider what each of these configurations has to offer.
1 ohm) The amp will be giving 1000wRMS @ 14.4V (most cars aren't this)
and will have 1.0% distortion. That's 500 wRMS per sub-perfect!
This configuration is harder on the amp and unlikely for the car.
4 ohms) The amp will be pushing 300 wRMS @12V and 400 wRMS @14.4V
each offers 0.5% distortion (much better). Unfortunately this gives
each sub a measly 150 or 200 wRMS a piece-not good
If you were to decide to go with the 2+2's however then you would could parallel them to series them to 4 ohms each and then parallel them together to get a 2ohm configuration. That's 600 wRMS @12V or 800 wRMS @14.4V out of the amp (each having 0.5% dis). Each sub would get 300 or 400 - a comfortable amount of power.

Either way you go the amp is great in any scenario.
Any other questions just ask. My thoughts-it's gonna be very loud :nice:
 
#13
:) thanks man. i dont quite understand the pairing and parallel thing, i hope it is loud, i was rethinking the amps, maybe an alpine would do me well? i dont know, so i am asking you for advice as well, what would you do in my case to hook up the subs? be very specific and try to not use terms i dont know. mind you i am still learning. i want to best thing for the amp and subs which way would you do it?
 
#14
Your amp is making most power at 1 ohm and you need dual 4 ohm subs(or as stated 4+4). I know ohms vary, but you do stay with the stated ohm level because its the average.
DVC_Parallel_2.gif


Class D amps usually have a higher THD cause they arn't meant to be played at a higher levels of the sound spectrum.
 
#15
My thoughts
- the alpine idea is okay, but as you said you get the kenwood for CHEAP :nice:
- alpine generates power at 14.4 V (same as the kenwood cantidate) :notnice:
- alpine is more $$$ :notnice:
- alpine will be a little more clean :nice:

all in all stick with your original plan.
Also refer to the diagram by Kornnut, it's an example of parallelism.

My thoughts on the distortion issue are that I don't know you personally and therefore have no clue what your listening habits may be. Thus, I am trying to potentially save your new subs from toasting young. In most cases that I have witnessed it not a power issue (too much/little) that blows subs it is distortion of the signal at high/low power that eats up subs. The basis for my comments throughout this thread have been to keep you getting the most power with the lowest amount of distortion, therein allowing you to get the most money out of your new subs. I can't say anymore than that.

Go with the kenwood, and I suggest going with the 2+2's, but I will let you know that the 4+4's can be made to go louder. It's now your call.

Any other questions just shoot, and I'll do my best.

Foreigner
 
#16
how many pairs of rca cables do i need? also do i need a fuse box or will a simple fuse be enough some of the box's go for about $50. also will my subs get messed up like you say if i dont blast them all the time? how long will they last do you think? also i was planning on the kenwoods after i thought about it. also what else would i need to set up my system, also what do i use to connect my subs to the terminals on the box and then the terminals to my amps?
 
#17
Sorry it's been so long (toasted computer)

1) Should only need one set RCA's (Non-Fader/Subwoofer Pre-Out to Amp)
2) I went with the box, but that's because I needed the gold-plated current transfer (mostly the look of it all) - for you I would just use a MAXI 60A fuse you can get them at Wal-Mart. (Cheap :nice: )
3) Your subs won't get messed up if you keep within reason while blasting. I was just warning you in case you were going to drive around every day with the volume at max. They should last a very long time (years) just remember to break them in slowly (not all your fun on the first day). Try to take about 2 weeks at moderate volumes before you show off the awesome power of your new system.
4) Kenwood is good to.
5) You'll need MDF board for the box, 12AWG wire for the sub, some sort of withholding system (bolts to stop theives), a basic 8AWG amp kit, a few days off to get everything in the car, and some patience.
6) I'd use the 12AWG wire that you'll be getting to get directly from sub through pre-drilled holes in the box and then to the amp. Seel the holes with wood glue. If you're getting a pre-fab box, just run the 12AWG from sub to inner terminal and then from amp to outer terminal.

That should get you on your way, as always though if you get stuck just ask I'll do my best.
Foreigner
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Creomod
Car popping car starts up but wants to die if I don’t hold pedal down
Replies
26
Views
1K
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Creomod
Creomod
Piranahbite
What in gods green earth happend to my N/A 2.3?
Replies
7
Views
666
2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech
Piranahbite
Piranahbite
E
Starter Solenoid Burned Out / Constant 12 volts on "S" Post
Replies
15
Views
6K
Classic Mustang Specific Tech
ESolorzano
E
7
The Death of a Cobra II
Replies
12
Views
1K
1974 - 1978 Mustang II Talk & Tech
2Blue2
2Blue2
Nine Finger Wrenching
Lost a finger so I bought a Mustang
Replies
18
Views
2K
The Welcome Wagon
Noobz347
Noobz347
Top Bottom
Back
New
Hot
Menu