I am torn between these two options. I have a stock block 95 cobra with stock cobra intake and stock GT40's with a Crane 2031 cam, LT, OR h-pipe, flos, CAI. Vortech 4FG218-020S - Vortech Centrifugal Supercharger Kits Trick Flow Specialties TFS-K514-350-370 - Trick Flow® 350 HP Twisted Wedge® Top-End Engine Kits for Ford 5.0L I really am looking for the best bang for the buck for 310+ rwhp with a great power curve for street driving. Any recommendations are welcome as well.
S-trim guys I tune for usually run mid 11s-lower 12s on the stock heads depending on supporting mods and GT40 vs E7 heads on a S-trim kit. Trickflow H/C/I will go lower 13s to mid 12s on an equally prepped street car setup. The guys that do the H/C/I then go blower ALL say they wish they had jumped straight to a blower. You're looking at an easy 80-100rwhp gain over the Trickflow kit once it is tuned. Want more power? Swap pullies, add meth, cross your fingers the block doesn't break in half. It is easy to add power. I've done both as well. If you go with the blower follow through and get the supporting bits for it and a tune (which does make it a touch higher than the H/C/I setup). Lightly used V1/V2 setups go for anywhere from $1000-1800 that I've seen. That is my 2c. Wes
I did h/c/i, then blower. Wish I did blower first I think the blower is an easier and quicker install and will make more power with the right supporting mods.
blower then when the motor goes upgrade it...or if you dont want to worry about that go HCI...I did HCI first and still havent got a blower but im happy.
Posted via Mobile Deviceif u don't plan on upgrading your motor soon I would say go H/C/I...that way you make blower power without the stress of the blower on the engine (more reliable atleast). not saying blowers aint reliable but atleast you'll make the power all motor...if u want more power after that, throw on a blower or squeeze and make even more power than what you would with a stock motor with a blower.
I went with the track heat setup from trick flow. I was very satisfied with it. I also put a stroker kit on the motor as well. The next winter after I saved some money and knew I could push a significant amount of boost without blowing something I put a d-1SC procharger on. So far it runs like a beast. The only thing I regret is not going with a 351w motor to start doing my mods. Best of luck to you.
Well, I bought the blower from Summit. Should be here in a week or so. I was wondering if buying a higher output coil would be of benefit as well as an adjustable fuel pressure reg? Also, what do mmost of you guys use for a tune? Chip, PMS, Tweecer? I have none of those right now (no more money left). I was wondering if it would be beneficial (for the money)to have the head gaskets changed out while the blower is going on? Any thoughts.
I'd give the factory ignition system a shot before dumping some money into coils/spark boxes etc - I ran it successfully for quite a while until I increased the airflow into the engine and had some spark blowout. Gap the plugs down to around 0.026 and run a heat range colder. With a good tune your head gaskets should stay put with the boost the kit is capable of making. If you decide to pull the heads over the winter I'd go back with some FelPro 9333-PT1 gaskets and some ARP head STUDS. The key to making your supercharger reliable is a quality tune done by a professional. Wes
Your probably gonna want to get some 42's or 60# injectors (60's give you room to grow) , mass air and a chip if you want it to work right. You could use the BTM and FMU but is not that reliable. Most guys go with an Anderson power pipe and get about 12 to 14 psi @6K. Bending the A/C line is the worst part of the install.
Not sure what you mean by the "better way." If by better you mean buy a used supercharger from a guy that says its "like new" and then have to send it off for a rebuild eating up the money you "saved" by buying used, then find out the heads you got for a steal need $500 in work because they are warped, I will pass on that. When it is a major part of the upgrade, I tend to save up and buy new.
Can't argue with logic like that my friend BTW, I wouldnt' even bother with the FMU. I tried that route and I could never get the car to run right. Save up for the 42lb injectors and matching MAF. Trust me, you'll be very happy with the results. And a tune is really manditory on our cars especially. With the way they like to detonate at will, do that under boost and it's bye bye pistons/head gaskets! Vortech should really do a chip like the newer Mustangs get. Good luck on the install!
Bending the A/C line takes literally 30 seconds! I think the most difficult part is punching/tapping the oil pan. I mean, it was really easy once I had the car up on stands and the sway bar removed...
I think you are on the right track. If I could do it all over again I would have saved up for a Kenne Bell kit. The one with the intercooler, injectors, mass air, and tune all in one package. I think its like 4K, but there is a reliable proven 11-12 second car. I'd also get a GT40 intake and have TMOSS port the crap out of the lower. Call it 5.5K total with porting, intake, and fluids. Adam
I prefer the power curve the centri blowers give the 5.0L motors, the KB kits are a tire roasting fest, good for burnouts but when it comes time to haul the mail you've got to be judicious on the throttle or really step up your rear grip. On the modular motors with pansy lowend torque it is a different matter, I much prefer the roots blowers there. On the tuning aspect if you don't have the coin at the moment to upgrade your injectors, maf etc, at least get the FMU/BTM setup checked on the dyno. I've tuned ontop of the FMUs and while it is definitely not going to net you the most power ever, they tend to be fairly reliable and will run you on the rich (safe) side. Wes
Is the T-Rex inline pump good enough to support the 42lb injectors, or do I have to get an in-tank and scrap the T-rex inline?
Do I need an adjustable fuel pressure reg too? Also, I can't afford a PMS, but I wanted to know my options on a tune. From what I have read, you can do the following: A. You can have the fuel pressure and timing set for the car- basic "tune" B. You can have a guy tune your car on the dyno and then burn it to a chip C. You can get a Quarterhorse and have the tech tune that (Do most shops do this?) D. Get a PMS or TwEECer and have them tune that. I had a quote to tune the car with a custom burned chip on the dyno for $550. Is this a worthwhile way to go?
