okay, so both my inner and outer tie rods are bad, and need to replace them before i get an alignment. where would be a good place to look and how much do yall think they will be?? also my erg valve is bad and needs to be replaced. i don't have a tuner is there a way to delete it and take off the CEL light with out a tuner?? need to know because thinking about selling for a better stang, and need to get these fixed first.
I was told by a very repitable shop when i was getting my aligned they couldn't do it because the inner tie rods are way to loose, and i should also look at outer ones because they could also be bad
Rack and peanut (I love The Simpsons) has inner and outer tie rods, I know this because I just replaced my inner ones. Any autoparts store has them for 17-20 each for the inners and about 30 for the outers. 5.0Resto has oem ones for the same price. If the car is dropped you should replace the outers with a bumpsteer kit (100-150) depending on manufacturer. Also, is a ERG valve like a EGR valve? LOL JK, you can get them at any autoparts store too. The only way to turn off the CEL is to fix the problem or remove the bulb if you dont have a tuner.
I replaced my outter tie rod ends with a MM bumpersteer kit which was about 150. However replacement ones are about 15 for outters. I also replaced the inners at a later time. It was CAKE. You need a BIG adjustable wrench. You will turn the wheel one way all the way and remove the rubber boots around the tie rod, then loosen the inner and the nut on the outter and unthread them. Then apply loctite to your new inner and reinstall it. I spent 30 each for autozone lifetime inners. They made a huge difference in how my car drove. Come to find out both of my inner tie rods were BENT. It took car of my rubbing on the swaybar when I turn and made it handle MUCH better.
okay, so i am buying the parts today, its going to cost about $140, with self install then i need a new alignment. anyways i wanted to know do i need a special tool to take the tie rods out?? or is that easy to do?? also i know i can do the EGR already took it out to try and clean it...
$140 is a bit much unless you are getting a bump steer kit. The parts at someplace like NAPA should only be $90. But to answer your question, a large cresent wrench would work fine. I dont meen a 12" one, I bought a 15" one to do it. Dont forget to put the limiters back on, looks like a plastic C, if the come off with the inner tie rods. Also put in new pins on the castle nuts on the outer tie rods.
inners on mustangs are easy!! you can rent an inner tie rod tool from most parts stores to make it even easier
okay, i'm happy now. i might have just killed two birds with 1 stone. i figured out why my a/c and heater didn't work... its a very small vacuum leak... the little red hoses that connect to the plenum one of them broke. and i also looked and it also connects to the EGR valve so i think that my egr might be reading bad because of the same vacuum leak!!! it makes me happy.. also the 140 if for both outer tie rods, both inner tie rods, and the new EGR valve. which i'm hoping i don't have to buy now
So I take it you guys are calling the inner steering rack shafts tie rod ends? I guess I'm too old school as the inner tie rod end I thought should look like the outers. They do on all the earlier Mustangs. The inners on the steering rack are behind the boot and look completely different. It's more of a ball and socket than an actual tie rod end. Additionally, don't these come with the steering rack? They did on my 90 LX Coupe. Sorry for the bad response.
technically they are call inner tie rods, not inner tie rod ends. they do come with a long rack, but can be purchased separately. they are pretty easy to change on mustangs because of rack placement. also since they are just tightened on and not secured with a rivet or washer like on some other ford models or some imports, so super special tools are needed other than an inner tie rod tool or big wrench. having the inner tie rod tool is nice because you can torque them when done.
Iknew it, I said that to you twice that it had to be a vaccume leak Glad you found it, I hate having a problem like that that I cant find How about the radio, did you check that connector I told you about?
well for the radio, i took it out, and first thing i did was like i know the place i got it installed would hate it, if i still have the ground form my subs, and the signal out, so i took those off, and re capped it.. then i looked and found the thing that you were talking about and so i unhooked the connector, blew it out. and put it back together... works perfectly fine now ohh and the vacuum leak was tricky.. i found the tubes you were talking about and followed them to there spots, and i lost the black one.. so i popped the hood and found it out of the fire wall, followed it up and finaly found out what the red tubes going into the plenum do.. and sure enough just 1 small tube was broken, and went to autozone and bought a half foot piece of tube, and slipped it over and woot, it sealed the leak!!! i will take pics of the piece that i fixed its really noticeable.. also the tie rods will most likely go on tonight, and get my car aligned tomorrow... i'm excited.... ohh 1 more thing would a very small vacuum leak cause the EGR valve to read flow deficiency?? or should i still buy a new one!!
