Trick Flow Top End Kit user's, please step inside

I need to have my car tuned, but there isn't anyone locally that can do it. So those of you that have had a custom chip burned, who did it? I'd love to buy a TwEECer and do it myself, but I just don't have the time for the TwEECer's steep learning curve(I'm currently working on my Commercial Pilot's License, and that eats up all my spare time). Since there's dozens of people with the exact same combo as mine, I'm sure someone could easily burn me a chip. Anyone know where to send me?

Mods are:
TFS Twisted Wedge heads
TFS Street Heat intake
TFS Stage 1 cam
FMS 1.6 Rockers
70mm T/B
76mm C&L meter and Tru-Flo tube
24 lb injectors
255 lph pump
1 5/8" BBK shorty headers
2 1/2" BBK catted H
2 1/2" Flowmaster aftercat

Just curious, why do you think it needs a tune.

An '89 computer is not very sensitive, and you should not have any problems.

Maybe it is related to the C&L MAF you have

Good Luck either way.

Here's the latest dyno sheet. From what I've read, I should be closer to 290 to 310 RWHP range.

Yeah, I believe the air-fuel ratio should be in the mid-upper 12:1 range.

- What is your timing at?
- Fuel pressure?
- Spark plugs used and what is the gap?
- How many accessories are you using?

Keep in mind the AFR was measured at the tail pipes, after the cat's. Not sure if the cats would affect it or not though.

Timing was at 18 degree's initial.
Fuel Pressure regulator is stock(it was reading 39 psi with the vacuum disconnected last I looked).
Spark plugs are Autolite 3924's(I think).
Full accessories with stock pulley's. All fully functional.

Everything looks pretty good. I am not sure on how tailpipe readings effect the air-fuel ratio. Maybe someone else will know.

What are the plugs gapped at?

Was the camshaft installed "dot to dot?"

Remember, full accessories hurt power, but it is power I am willing to give up. Basically, I would not expect 310 rwhp

Plugs are gapped at .045.

Camshaft was set straight up. And if you compare my dyno sheet to the one posted by Trick Flow's in the Summit catalog, the two dyno curves are identical. They both show peak HP and TQ at the same RPM.

I didn't expect 310 RWHP, but I'd sure expect it to be closer to 300.

I did 304hp/339tq with that exact combo including the 76mm c&l meter. Something is wrong. I wouldn't put too much faith in that a/f reading since youre using cats. Have you ran it aat the track?

I dont think its a tuning issue. Many people run the same setup without a tune and get more hp. Ill bet you dont have your valves adjusted properly and your timing is probably too low

Timing is at 18*.

Like Grn, you could make similar numbers. I would expect your numbers to be a bit shy of 300, since you have the a/c hooked-up.

My first guess looking at this is the fuel needs backed up a couple pounds and you have a AOD that you are not mentioning. If you are running a AOD than you should be around 270-275 rwhp.

With the AOD, it made 255 RWHP. The dyno sheet I posted was with a T5Z running through a Centerforce DF clutch.

I've heard that moving up the fuel pressure does nothing because the computer only looks at the 02's and MAF under WOT, and it will adjust the pulse width on the injectors to make the AFR whatever it wants.

18 degree's initial is too low?

Valves were adjusted to 1/2 turn past zero lash. They were adjusted on the engine stand before I put the motor in. I also installed new FMS lifters at the same time.

I haven't run it at the track yet. They close for the winter here. Which is stupid, since it rarely rains or snows here. It's just cold.

Seeing those numbers make me wanna cry.

Any idea if elevation plays a factor on dyno numbers? What was the elevation where you had your's dynoed? Mine was at 2800 feet. Doesn't the dyno's correction factor make up for air density(elevation) and temperature?

Yes, they can be corrected.

Elevation is a huge factor in power numbers, along with humidity, and barometric pressures.

A track has even more variables to get correct and that can vary. A dyno can create a standard to match.

Is your dyno a "mustang dyno?"

It was a Dynojet set on SAE.

sorry man, i didnt know you had 18. I just assumed. I too run 18 degrees and have my valves adjusted the same. Maybe the dyno is off

Yes elevation will hurt numbers. I live on Long Island, NY, so im very close to sea level Fwiw, I made those numbers in brutal high 90's and very high humidity. 18* was the sweet spot for me when I had that set up.

Say what you want but there is 99% of the time ,power to be had in a tune.
Ive seen it to many times.Just because our cars make power without a tune doesnt mean it doesnt need one..Drivabilty can ALWAYS be improved..

Hell i run a lmaf with a tune pulls 24+mpg on the highway and 15+mpg around town(playing at that)..Cranks up and runs better than it ever did stock.

Moving the dist will get you better performance but still limit you.You can not change timing over the whole curve with the dist .Because once you lock it for max power ,the lower end will suffer due to to much timing.

Mine dist is lock at the stock 10* and the rest done on the chip (total 31*)..I still have my a/c etc..Running thru a tko (which is known for taking more power to turn--this was proven by bob cosby years ago). With a weak (by some ) head cam combo.



As far as the combo.It will come up a good bit if you dump the shorties and cats.
Go longtubes and a o/r hpipe.Want a good tuner follow the link in my sig.