TwEECer FAQ's

Discussion in '1994 - 1995 Specific Tech' started by SmokinGT50, May 8, 2003.


  1. OinkAodeOink

    OinkAodeOink Founding Member

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    --Couple definitions--



    -Base Altitude Spark / Base Spark Table= A higher number increases ignition advance and a lower number decreases ignition advance. Base and Altitude spark tables are used based on barometric presure. Berometric presure above 26in/hg and the EEC will use the Base Spark Table while a barometric pressure below 26in/hg will use the Altitude Spark Table.

    -Global Spark Adder= This scaler function allows ignition timing to be adjusted. Increasing this value above 0 advances ignition timing by adding an aditional amount of timing to the spark table values. This is the same function as if you were to turn the distributor to advance the timing. These values can also be in the negitive to decrease timing.
    Example: Global spark adder= 2 , this would give you 12* base timing( if the distributors at 10*)
    Global spark adder= -2 , this would give you 8* base timing( distributor at 10* base)
    *All the EEC calculations are based off of 10* base timing*



    PIP / PIP Filter= Lower number gives a higher Rev limit.
    PIP= 6006250/maxRPM
    maxRPM= 6006250/PIP
    PIP= 961 max RPM= 6006250/961= 6250


    PIP is a sample rate frequency that limits the PCM program operating loop to a minimum rate. If the loop is sampled less then PIP times within one operating cycle( 2 crankshaft revolutions), the PCM limits RPM
    ( and thats how you come up with an effective rev limiter)


    -WOT Fuel Multiplier vs. RPM= This is an open loop fuel adder. Increase value over 1 to lower injector pulsewidth( less fuel) and decrease the number under 1 to increase the injector pulse width( more fuel) during open loop. Now, if these are untouched, you might find there are no RPM values on the X axis. Simply input the RPM values and corasponding fuel multiplier values below (Y axis) You can change the RPM value to add or remove fuel at any specific RPM.


    -Lambse= is what the EEC is targeting as air fuel ratio at anyone instant. If it is targeting 15.7 that means your running rich at that instant, so it tries to lean it out by targeting a value higher than 14.7.


    -Kamrf= is a long term correction. If it sees at a particular condition it is always running rich or lean it will start correcting it with Kamrf. It is more of a fuel multiplier than a target. If it is running rich at a certain condition the Kamrf will be less than one. (normal fuel times number less than 1 = less fuel).


    -Injector breakpoint= Injector breakpoint is the point at which the eec goes from the high to the low slope.
    The units are pound mass of fuel per injection. The injector breakpoint is an adder for the final fuel calculation to
    account for the non-linearity of the injectors, especially at small pulse-widths. It is a time-based adder, so it adds less as the PW gets larger. The breakpoint is used on the dominate slope at idle ( can be low slope or highslope) if your PW at idle is below 2MS, low slope is used, if your PW is above 2MS then the high slope is used.
    Low slope and injector breakpoint are open loop fuel adder's below a pulse width of 4MS. Low slope is used from 2MS and below and the Injector breakpoint is used from 2MS to approximatly 4MS.The Low slope isn't related to Injector breakpoint in any way.




    --Some basics--



    --Eliminating speed limiters--

    (entering 16383 for all values effectivly turns off speed limiters)
    - Speed limit stage 1 off = 16383
    - Speed limit stage 1 on = 16383
    - Speed limit stage 2 off = 16383
    - Speed limit stage 2 on = 16383
    - Speed limit stage 3 = 16383

    --Raising rev limits--

    ( pretty obvious what this does, taylor to your needs, but remember to always set the "on" value higher then the "off" value)
    - Rev limit 0 off = 6300
    - Rev limit 0 on = 6400
    - Rev limit neutral 0 off = 6300
    - Rev limit neutral 0 on = 6400



    --Longtube header settings--

    ( if youre running longtubes, you might have ran into some problems with the O2's going cold, or taking a while to heat up to temp, these settings should keep everything happy)

    :Tables:
    Exhuast Pulse Delay

    R P M
    900 1300 1500
    .075 - 24 24 24 24
    L .06- 24 24 24 24
    O .05 - 20 20 20 20
    A .04 - 20 20 20 20
    D .03 - 20 20 20 20
    .02 - 20 20 20 20
    .01 - 20 20 20 20
    .005 - 20 20 20 20




    --How to calculate Throttle presure(TP) from an AD count--

    ( typically in your settings that involve TP, TP is not displayed in volts.. Insted its displayed in an AD count, for example 100, 252, 332, 600, and WOT would be 1020( 5 volts). So to find out the TP voltage at that AD count, use the formula below) The AD # at idle is right around 200 (.98 volts) AD # around a 1500rpm cruise speed would be
    310.
    To convert the Throttle position AD count ( throttle position in AD counts) to throttle position volts divide the TP number by 1020 then multiply by 5 like this..

    Examples: 1020/1020*5 = 5v
    640/1020*5 = 3.137v




    --How does the Switch work? Which tune and im running on on which setting?--

    Full CounterClockwise

    A - tune 1 (Switch points near dimple on the case)
    B - tune 2
    C - tune 3
    D - tune 4
    E - Tweecer OFF (stock calibration)

    Full Clockwise
     
    #21
  2. OinkAodeOink

    OinkAodeOink Founding Member

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    --AODE Settings--


    :Scalers:
    trans tv adder 1-2 =16 ( Trans TV adder, is an adder to the trans presure)
    1-2 time=0 ( time delay between shifts)
    tv adder 2-3=16
    2-3 time=0
    tv adder 3-4=20
    time 3-4=1 (Lower this value to make the 3-4 shift quicker. Units i believe are in seconds)


    -- WOT shift points--

    :Scalers:

    take note, the actual 1-2 shift is going to be around 1000rpms off, from the setting you enter. The 2-3 shift is around 500rpms off from the set WOT shift point. So if u want the actual 1-2 WOT shift to happen at 5900 rpms, you would enter 4900rpms for the 1-2 WOT shift, and so on. This is dependant on which gears you are running.. SO the higher the gear( 410's-up) might require an even more drastic change.

    --Setting the tranny to shift firmer--

    :Functions:

    ( entering higher numbers on the Y axis (Y axis=MPH) at each throttle position(X axis=TP) will firm up the shift at that TP) ( these values might differ depending on which gears you have)

    trans tv press 1-2= x 0 0 0 0 0 52 400 600 1020
    y 5 5 5 5 5 10 17 46 56

    trans tv prss 2-3= x 0 0 0 28 52 252 400 600 1020
    y -5 -5 -5 -5 0 8 8 27 42




    -- How to get the tranny to shift later or sooner, under normal driving conditions (not wot)--

    :Functions:

    Trans Shift Schedules

    If youve installed diferent gears then factory, this setting will be thrown off, and might cuase your tranny to shift much too soon. When i went from 327's to 373's my tranny shifting way to soon, so i had to make changes here
    the Y axis represents MPH and the X axis represents TP( throttle presure) So to effectivly make your tranny shift later you would increase the MPH( Y axis) at whichever throttle position needed. If you just want to change the low speed driving shifts, then only increase the first 6 numbers for the MPH. I usually start increase 2 mph at a time, untill i have achieved the disired shift at that throttle postition.
     
    #22
  3. Mrgreen94gt

    Mrgreen94gt SIMMA DA NA!!! Founding Member

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    You can use the trans_base_RPM/VSS scalar to change the part throttle/normal driving shifting and presumably lock-up settings, also. It uses the formula (AxleRatio * 336)/Tire diameter

    The U4P0's stock setting is 44.5
    When you do the calculation for 3.73 with a 25.6811" tire you come up with 48.8 (which you could just round up to 49 using the +/- buttons.) After that you should go into the shift schedules and change the higher TP shift to a lower mph because they would more than likely be at or past the rev limiter.


    I'm getting used to the software before I get my Tweecer.:)
     
    #23
  4. 94Fauxbra

    94Fauxbra New Member

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    very nice guys ...these simple explanations are exremely helpful

    thanks Mark
     
    #24
  5. 94GTLaserRC

    94GTLaserRC Squint as you approach, lest you be blinded by my

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    Ernan Says "here it comes... dushbag"
    I DID NOT want to quote Oinks post since it was 2 long..but this relates to that.

    This is the kinda thing I was talking about with TwEECer providing a manual. Actual tuning is so specific, but the terms and values definitely need description.

    Those things are just want I was referring to Oink :nice:

    Oink:
    I set the tranny the way you suggested, but to me it is still WAY too soft. Do you have another set of values for me to firm it up...I dont want "rediculously" hard, but better than what those values are.. Remember, with my PI Stallion, It takes more to feel the firmness.

    Thanks againg for the help, and lets keep this going :cheers:
    RC
     
    #25
  6. OinkAodeOink

    OinkAodeOink Founding Member

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    RC, i would give you more info, but i really dont know alot about how to firm up the shifts. Ive been tweecing the timing and fuel stuff, and havent messed with too much aode related settings.

    But i do believe the answer to firming up shifts is in the Trans Tv presure-1-2 and 2-3 and maybe even in the low speed line psi

    RC, i do remember emailing you another set of settings to try out, maybe u didnt get the email, or somthing.
    anyways heres what they were..


    Trans TV presure 1-2= X 0 0 0 0 0 52 400 600 1020
    Y 11 11 11 11 11 17 27 80 90



    Trans TV presure 2-3= X 0 0 0 28 52 252 400 600 1020
    Y 0 0 0 4 6 8 10 30 40
     
    #26
  7. 94GTLaserRC

    94GTLaserRC Squint as you approach, lest you be blinded by my

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    Ernan Says "here it comes... dushbag"
    Im assuming these were the ones you mailed me. Anyway, You had put "attachment", but nothing was attached.

    I will try these tomorrow and let you know.

    Steve, can you send me your DIRECT EMAIL so I can send you my Dyno sheet to look at?

    Thanks
    RC
     
    #27
  8. Redsnk95

    Redsnk95 Founding Member

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  9. 94GTLaserRC

    94GTLaserRC Squint as you approach, lest you be blinded by my

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    Ernan Says "here it comes... dushbag"
    #29
  10. Redsnk95

    Redsnk95 Founding Member

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    No problem dude, glad I can help out.

    Troy
     
    #30
  11. BOOSTED393

    BOOSTED393 Founding Member

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    SmokinGT50, I have a quick question why does the tweecer stop picking up the speed over 127.5 MPH? This is on a A9l computer This is some thing I just wanted to no.

    Thanks
    Tim
     
    #31
  12. Buggapimp5.0

    Buggapimp5.0 Founding Member

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    It shouldnt, mine has clocked me all the way up to 135 (so far).

    you may have a problem with your VSS.

    does your speedometer clock over 127.5 and then your tweecer logs just stop there?
     
    #32
  13. SmokinGT50

    SmokinGT50 Founding Member

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    I know that the 94-95 cars have additonal fuel added and spark removed starting at 90 and continuing to increase once you are over 127 MPH. I don't have a copy of the A9L strategy in front of me, once I can take a look at it I can tell you how to remove it on the A9L. I think it is some sort of speed limiter of sorts, instead of completely halting you it just make less power thus limiting your top speed. I am assuming you have a TwEECer or something similar.
     
    #33
  14. 94GTLaserRC

    94GTLaserRC Squint as you approach, lest you be blinded by my

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    Ernan Says "here it comes... dushbag"
    Yeah, mine stops logging at 160 :lol: Cant stand it...Doesnt give me a "true' measure of my stats when Im running those Vipers!
    RC
     
    #34
  15. BOOSTED393

    BOOSTED393 Founding Member

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    My car is a 89 so it still has the cable.

    It still logs every thing after 127.5 but the speed never goes any higher on the tweecer.
     
    #35
  16. Buggapimp5.0

    Buggapimp5.0 Founding Member

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    might want to look at your speed limiter next in the tuner :) I dont know what it is on your year car tho.
     
    #36
  17. SmokinGT50

    SmokinGT50 Founding Member

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    BOOSTED393,

    I completely misunderstood your question, I think that is something you will have to talk to Mike Glover about.
     
    #37
  18. SmokinGT50

    SmokinGT50 Founding Member

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  19. SmokinGT50

    SmokinGT50 Founding Member

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    I wanted to add some notes here from a little tuning today. I used the ZA0 injector timing, 136 for all boxes, and here are 2 things that I have noticed

    1. the idle doesn't hang at all when coming to a stop, it drops to about 900-950, until I come to a complete stop, then it drops down to about 800.

    2. There is clear difference in exhaust tone and the way it sounds at idle.

    I also dropped my idle to 700 and it will not drop that low, it stays at around 781-808.

    It does not take well to turning the AC on and off with the ZA0 injector timing it starts to surge a little, if I push in the clutch, this just allows me to hear over the gears rolling, it will attempt to idle at 700 RPM's this sounds really wicked, but it doesn feel like it is running right. If I blip the throttle it almost dies when it the RPM's come back down. So my next step is too incrementally increase the idle RPM and the injector timing until the idle is stable with the AC on and the idle hang when coming to a stop stays gone. There has to be a happy medium somewhere.
     
    #39
  20. VibrantRedGT

    VibrantRedGT "STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER" Super Mod

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    I have no idea what ZA0 is. I really could have used your help today. I got a stumble down low that is uncureable. It runs rich at idle to 1500. When I'm driving at 1500 rpm in any gear it bucks severely. I think I wiped out another set of plugs today. This rich condition is a killer. Coolant overflowed today so I have another problem as well. Haven't been to happy since the blower went on. If I've done damage today I will dismantle everything and sell it.
     
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