What are your 2.3 plans for this year?

Hey everyone, I just wanted to stir the pot a little and see what everyones plans are for this spring/summer for thier 2.3s. I'll start by sharing mine .

Last fall, I took my 2.3 to the track, and ran a 14.1 @ 102mph, but that was with a terrible 60' (low 2.5's, due to a leak at the manifold to turbo), and I was also running a tiny turbo.

For this spring, I'll fix all the little issues that drive me crazy. I've got a list about a half page long, including transmission leaks, putting in some more drag oriented springs/struts, and getting a manifold to seal up tight to the turbo. Then, I'll take it to the track, and see what she does again. If everything is right, I bet I can see low 13s at 105mph, which would make me quite happy. I may also get the water injection running again, and use that to supplement the already too small 35lb injectors.

For this summer: Recently, I discovered a station nearby that sells E85, and the current price is 1.49/gallon while 87 octane gas is 2.12. I could definately enjoy 100+ octane for 1.50/gallon. I'd like build and tune a megasquirt computer and convert the car to run on E85. If nothing else, getting rid of the stock VAM and computer should get 20% gain in hp, even on pump gas. I'd imagine this kind of setup could put down 400rwhp if properly tuned... ie more than my chassis'/suspenion could take. hehe

Of course, to get started, I'd like it to get above freezing for more than a couple days in a row... Ohh, I'm sick of winter now.

Excellent goals! mine are far fetched, but here goes

Needs finishing
1: Black interior conversion
- install door panels
- fix shifter boot snap ring
- switch out trunk carpet

2: install the already aquired parts


Suspension:
Maximum motor sports tubular A control arms
Griggs Tubular K member

Drive train:
Balanced 86' block , .015 over, CP pistons/rings(thanks Joe!), Crower 5.2 rods
Centerforce II clutch/pressure plate
Precision sc50 turbo .63 hotside with a stg 3 wheel
Stinger tubular header

3: Aquire a few more needed parts


Suspension:
Front:
coil over kit w/ struts
Caster/camber plates

Rear:
8.8 (cheap and easy to locate here)
Panhard bar
Torque arm
Control arms

Power train:
Aluminum aluminum D port head (essy 2277 cam)
Injectors (still working on sizing)
Standalone Computer ( looking at the haltech Ex6 )

I have been acquiring parts over the past year or two, its slowly coming together.
Hopefully this summer it will be together making somewhere in the range of 400whp.......stably (is that to much to ask?? ! )

On 89 mustang go to big vam and computer and bigger intercooler and change rear gearratio Saleen body kit after MGB done. . Restart on 77 MGB replace floorboard rocker paint entire stripped car. Install rebuilt 2.3 turbo,C-4 limiteded slip Ford cutdowm rearend. Many Many modification. Drive and enjoy.

Trying to get my car back together and looking more like this again:



From this:




Also I have an aluminum drive shaft here at my place to be put in. One of these days Ill get around to taking apart my 86 turbo motor. After the crash, I’m going to need new rims and tires. While doing that I think Ill put in my 5.0 spindles, calipers and such with the Maximum Motor sports SS brake lines. If I could get a hold of some SN95 spindles I would like to put a set of Bullitt rims on my car. They are very hard to come by here, but I can get Ranger axels and Aero Star axels from the local pull a part.



Dan

On the 86: Finish tuning out the 2 barrel carb conversion, Ranger header and custom exhaust, and then start hunting down parts for a T5 swap.

On the 88: Correct the rough/low idle, fix the instrument cluster issues, and install my new head unit.

ooooh where to begin?
#1 get merkur engine running, and in the cobra
#2 get new carpet and seats
#3 get oil/charge/temp gauges in
#4 fix the floor up
#5 get quadrashocks
#6 new shocks
#7 subframe connectors
#8 straighten every ding, and get the panels aligned.
#9 shoot on 2 tone gloss and satin black.
#10 get the grill cobra emblem, and the passenger side cobra emblem.
#11 get the aluminum wheels off of a car my friend might be buying.
#12 get flowmaster exaust
#13 get boost controller, BOV, head gasket, intercooler, and some other goodies.
doing an extremely cheap build. possibly the cheapest cobra build ever lol

85 SVO:
Complete tuning the MAF conversion.
Install 8.8" rear with 31 spline Moser axles w/98 cobra discs.
Install Esslinger head with solid lifters and 2332.5 cam (.595 lift).
Get 15x8 and 15x4 wheels for dragging (with slicks).
Figure out if my clutch can handle all of that.
Learn how to drive with all my newfound power (should make 400hp+ at only 20psi).

Dragster:
Get EFI shortblock bolted in.
Figure out which engine management to use.
Get new rear gears installed.
Get air shifter working.

I've been wondering if you were going to do anything with that SVO or not. Sounds like a pretty good plan too.

Funny thing how we have 3 people so far shooting for 400hp... but I'm feeling out gunned being the only one without plans of an Al head. It would really be amazing if we have 3 new 400+ hp 2.3s on here... in addition to 351W and others.

You can convert the VAF system on a 2.3T to MAF? I have always wondered if you can. Seems to me like having the engine sucking air through one of those VAF sensors is pretty restrictive.

-Buy a new(old) 2.3 Mustang to put the engine in.
-Put a LA3 in it instead of the PK1
-Fix the tranny
-Get a new clutch Kit
-Buy a Cat and weld it + a flexpipe + 2.5" tailpipe instead of the 2.25" + E6
-Install the FMIC


That's it!

You can convert to a MAF, and there are definately some big gains in doing so. The VAF isn't especially accurate, maxes out too quickly, and is restrictive.

To do the conversion properly, you need to make substantial changes to the code in your EEC-IV. Your best bet is to get a tune already made by someone on TF. Of course you still have to worry about ensuring the air is streight and smooth going into the airmeter, and all these sorts of things manufactures think about. Searching on TF will yeild pretty much everything you need to know.

Didn't know that. I've always in the back of my head had this idea of doing a 2.3T/2.3L DIS 8 plug combo. Use the basic turbo setup but use the DIS, 8 plugs, and MAF of the 91-93 2.3L. I would imagine the much more accurate MAF setup would result in substantial gains.

I'm sure there is someone running this kind of setup... however, that MAF is too small... and if you are using the NA computer, and those associated injectors are too small as well. Not to mention, with the DIS, you have no control over the base timing (for sure, the NA setup is too aggressive for a turbo setup).

If you want to use that kind of setup, you'd want to get a bigger MAF, use the TC computer and then go DIS. That computer will have more reasonable timing and possibilities to expand. The other option of course, is going with an aftermarket computer, which would probably be easier to tune than using stock parts.

Let me be a good example to the maf conversion...i have a set of 75lb injectors and a lightning A/M. which i am doing away with the vam and 32lb injectors...the core of the air meter is removed and put into a 2 1/2" IC pipe 6-8" before the TB. after the water/meth inj....the air meter can be wiped out and completly re-calibrated for what ever you want im doing a blow thru set up. This is by no means on a stock motor.....everything is in my sig i skipped the Standalone and added a snow injection kit....just got my 75lb injectors in and waiting on my intake deal from 40bob...with all that im hopeing to leave the dyno later this month make 400-450 reliable hp.

2.3 plans

Well, I plan to continue with the GOvert project. I look forward to the day that the subbody assembly moves and stops under its own power. I was in the middle of the wiring rearrangement when the weather went abnormally cold here in Alabama.
The '85 coupe project needs some more attention. It was formally a 2.3/auto car and a few years back I installed a '77 model 302 and a C-4. It has been a fun little Foxbody to drive. The engine now has over 250,000 miles on it and under acceleration has developed quite a reciprical vibration. I can't wait to see what the main bearings and the bearings in the C-4 look like. Now don't laugh, when it started making rod beasring noises I added at least a half a quart of 90 weight gear lube. It quit rattling,dictionary.com good oil pressure too . I'm rebuilding another 302 and C-4 for it.
The '85 hatchback was a 2.3/auto car and had installed a Crown Vicky 5.0. Couldn't keep it from overheating. I expect to find some water port blockage or blown head gasket. Who knows...I have a freshly machined '83 T-bid Tubo 2.3 begging to be installed in the hatchback. I'm strongly considering this and thanks to all of you guys who have done modifications on these, gives me a lot of info to read. I'll post some pics soon.

My ass is going to run 10's this year with the set-up that I have. I have picked it apart and been as critical as I can. I'm only .27sec away with a dirty run.

I'll be making an engine change this year as well but the main thing being a Boport, ported like crazy, iron head with a 2277.

I've been getting things together for the engine. But the main focus has been working on the "cheap or stock stuff" thats holding me back, along with stinger getting a new tune together. I intend to go nuts the day after I can go to the track, run it a bunch of times consistently, and not break/blame anything. When I can go and feel the car will not go any faster then its time for the new engine.

Sell them all and build a WRX

if ur geting a bo-port head u better lay off the 100shot till u can run it on the rollers....u will already be well into the 400 with the Bp head and the holset just like mee........u will prob be happy with a 90MM lightning air meter like im using...