stg 1- .580 lift springs w/ stock valves $2900.00 stg 2- .580 lift springs w/ 8mm stainless valves $3100.00 stg 3- .650 lift springs w/ 8mm stainless valves and titanium retainers $3325.00 Hi all, I am new to this site. A buddy of mine learned that I bought a v63.8 02 ( agood car), took pity on my lack of direction as far as upgrades, and refered me to this site. I have read all of the advice given on the previous threads, and gathered that to really get the good stuff, I would first need to swap out the head, cam,and intake. So I made some requests, and was given this pricelist. Being new to this upgrading thing, I am asking you guys what difference the stainless steel valves, or the titanium retainers would make ( durability maybe?), and which package gives you the bigger bang for your buck? Also, I know I will need a few other mods to make this work, but would love any suggestions I could get. Thanks
Unless you plan on a turbo or super charger at some point go with the stage 1 or 2. Stage 3 is more for forced induction. My personal choice would be stage 2 which will give you about 80 more hp (over stock) and it's only a couple hundred more.
I wasn't planning on a super, but I was thinking about making the following chnages. Under-pullies, turbo charge (about 10 ps), intercooler, pressure release valve, cold air inductor, head, cam, intake, exhaust (catback), and maybe a new computer. I am curious about how much HP that would add, and if I were to make all the rest of the changes, would there be anything else I would need to do? Anyway, I know all that would be a pain in the ass for a 6, but that is what I have in mind. PS- does all that even sound feasible?
If you plan on a turbo then stage 3 is the one you want but you should do it all at the same time, no use getting a tune then later having to change it again when you add the turbo. Also running 10 psi you really should to upgrade the internals to keep it all together. Just a guess would be about a 180 - 200 hp increase with all that but you will be forever burning the expencive gas.
Dumbest ? of al times. From what I gather, the intake, cam shaft and head are all part of his package. I am not trying to sound like a cheap bas****, but I am. My whole thing is that I have found that it is always cheaper to do it yourself (if you have the time patients knowledge and resources). I have time, patients, stang-net, and google. So, I am sure there is sopmewhere I can buy all these components seperately, and install them myself? Anyway, let me know if that idea is just off and I should stop being such a cheap ass, and just pay the full monty.
You're definitely going to want to install the heads/cam at the same time. To really see big gains from either, you'll want them working together. So, a cam that works with the stock heads well, is going to be crappy on well-ported heads. Plus, no reason to take the whole engine apart twice basically. In order to install a cam, you have to take most everything off, anyway, so it makes sense to do the heads then. BTW, take a look at Super Six Motorsports and Delk Performance (call and ask for Matt if you have any questions) for this stuff... avoid RPM-Mustangs like the plague.
with 10 psi and a stage 3 expect to be at about 400rwhp + depending on the grind of the cam if you look on tma's site theres a guy with BVH and a cam as well a port and polish job with a turbo running 440rwhp STOCK internals im not sure on the psi with a stock bottom end and top end you'll be good at 10psi with a tune...without would be risky also dependin on the wear and miles on your engine
Love the supersix OK, I think I will be getting the stage three powerpack, 3.8 longblock, a 10+ psi turbo (possibly getting two for kicks and giggles for a total of 20 psi.)with intercooler, pressure release valve, air inductor, new exhaust, computer, under-pulleys (if needed), fuel rail, and all the intermediate parts to make all this happen. The only catch to this is that price. But what the hell right? As for the body, I plan on leaving it as stock as possible except for adding the guages. Anyway, thanks for all of your input, it has been most helpful. I will be taking before pictures tomorrow, and hopefully in a year, the finished product will dazzle. The funny thing is, is people still ask me why I didn't get a v8. The answer is simple. I love my 6, and wouldn't trade it for the world. If I were to win the lottery one day, I would make my stang the most souped up six( under the hood that is) in existance. Screw a ferrari. I love my stang. Peace
how much money do you have a twin turbo kit is about $5,500 alone fuel pump $110-$130 fuel injectors $360+ depending on injectors why not get a 4.2L??? 4.2L- $4,500(forged internals all the goodies) up to $7k! thats for the full engine, and w/e grinded cam you want stage 3 heads and a ported and polished upper and lower intake J on tma has a twin turbo 4.2L full street ar 3900lbs runs over 500rwhp and even more torque with a 11.1 in the 1/4 mile at 15psi aside from engine and turbo kit which alone would set you back over $10grand you'll need to beef up the tranny deffinity need and 8.8 rear with 31spline axles different clutch probably GT flywheel with a GT stage 3 spec clutch i'd recommend a aluminum flywheel and driveshaft upgrade brakes if you wana go to the track a 6point rollcage cause you'll run faster then 11.50 safety loops i believe you need 4 harness seats after that your looking at damm near $15k or more dont forget to deffinitly get it tuned!
