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Project Sundance




Steeda Sport Spring Install

Author: Scotty   (comments by SmokyBurnOut)

Aftermarket springs will dramatically improve the look of your Stang, while giving it better road handling ability. For Project Sundance, we chose the Steeda Sport Springs. The springs drop the car 1.75" in the front, and 1" in the rear. By doing so, it gives the Stang a slightly angled look reminiscent of the muscle cars from long ago. This install is pretty straight forward, anyone with basic knowledge of cars and tools should be able to complete it in 4-5 hours. In short, if Spreadman can do it, so can you.

Note, torque figures given are from the official 1999 Ford Mustang Shop Manual (Mustang GT) published by Helm.

Tools required:


Another warm body
Haynes manual ($11 at AutoZone)(for pictures)
10mm socket
15mm socket (deep well)
19mm socket (deep well)
1/2" socket
13/16" socket
ratchet extensions
ratchet
breaker bar
2 jack stands (although 4 are recommended)
1 hydraulic floor jack (if using 2 jack stands, get another jack, or use the one that came with the spare)
prybar (or REALLY big screwdriver)
small pliers
utility knife
small flathead screwdriver
rubber mallet
hammer
one wire coathanger
zip-ties
Red Loc-tite
PB Blaster (not really needed, but helps)
torque wrench (if you got one)

Preface:

It helps to have another person help. If using 2 jacks, it will come in handy. Also, grab a bucket or crate to sit on while working on the fronts. You’ll thank me for it. And TAKE YOUR TIME and do it right the first time. ;-)

OK, let’s get started.

REARS

1. Jack up the rear of the car, and place 2 jacks stands on the frame in front of the control arms. (see picture). Jack it up as high as it can go….again, you will thank yourself for doing it.

2. If you have 4 jack stands, jack up the differential about 5 inches and place the other jack stands under the axle housings. This will keep the differential from rotating up and down. If not, jack up the differential under the solid metal plate just in front of the pumpkin….and jack it up about 5 inches.

3. Remove the 4 bolts (1/2") that support the rear sway bar, and set it aside. There are 4 speed clips that the bolts anchor to on the bar, try not to lose them. You won’t, but I’m just warning you.

4. Now that you have the differential supported. Take the remaining jack and pre-load the right side, under the A-arm, jacking it up about 4-5 inches.

5. Remove the bolt supporting the A-arm to the axle housing (13/16"). It will help if you have a breaker bar for this….these were a little tough to get undone, but you can do it.

6. VERY SLOWLY, lower the A-arm until the spring falls out.

7. Transfer any rubber isolators to the new spring, and place the new spring in the A-arm (remembering which direction the pigtails were facing), jack up the A-arm and bolt back into place (13/16" : 111 ft-lbs). I recommend using red Loc-Tite on these bolts…just as a precaution. (NOTE) If you do not put jack stands under the axle housings, or use a jack in front of the pumpkin, the holes will not line up, the diff. Rotates from top to bottom…BE WARNED! As you try to line up the holes...you may have to jockey around the jacks to get it right.

8. Do the same thing to the left side…and re-install the rear sway bar (1/2" : 41 ft-lbs). (NOTE: if you have a torque wrench, use the specs found in the Haynes manual….if not, get them as tight as you can without stripping the bolts).

DONE WITH THE REARS!


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