Howdy, hoping someone knows more than I do about exhaust gas temps. I have six cylinders in the 400-600 range and 1 and 4 are running at 100. This is at warmed up idle temps . Any thoughts ? I'm leaning towards valve adjustment .
Searched and searched and believe it or not all the old wheel threads are gone or MIA. Reason for the post is I was looking to see if anyone has Enkei PF09's on a Fox Body and could not find them on one on any of the sites. My car started with some old school Centerlines back in 2000 when I bought the car. Buddy had them on his and wanted new ones so I got them for a good deal.
Crappy picture but it was all I could find they are so outdated:
Upgraded to five lug a couple years later via the Mark VII rotors and Ranger rear axles and went to the '97 Cobra wheels:
Changed over to the SN95 Cobra brakes and kept the Cobra wheels for a few years and then in 2012 I went to the Bullitt style wheels:
Then this year I decided it was time for a new set and settled on the Enkei PF09's. Ordered them in February and finally got them this past weekend:
What will happen if you overfill your power steering pump?
1986 5.0 GT - shredded a belt and only thing I did was eliminate AC, move PS up, put new belt on and re-filled reservoir?
Looks like oil has sprayed out of top, but PS was working fine.
I am picking up a 1983 4 cylinder car. I am planning on converting it to a 302. For the brakes I have a set of 91 v8 spindles. My plan is to upgrade the fronts to the 91 v8 spindles and brakes. As for the master cylinder would it make more sense to use a 91 master cylinder and prop valve since the 91 has 3 ports. If I get a complete brake line set this seems like it would be rather easy. I also will be switching out the 7.5 for a 8.8 rear. Just looking for some advice. Thanks !
My 302 has been ticking very loudly for over two years now (since I've had the car), sometimes it gets better, sometimes it gets worse, but overall it hasn't changed no matter what I do to try and fix it. It is bone stock except for the exhaust. I have now replaced the entire exhaust (as well as the gaskets a few times) thinking that it was an exhaust leak, and no difference. I have replaced the stock heads with another set of stockers, no difference. I have replaced the lifters and pushrods. I have tried different oil additives, like marvel mystery oil, oil stabilizer, and liqui-moly engine flush. I replaced the oil pump and shaft. I tested the hot oil pressure at idle, and it was a healthy 25 PSI at around 650 rpm. With all these different things I have tried, it would seem that even if it didn't solve the problem the sound would at least change.
The car has also been an extremely reliable daily driver even though I drive it like I stole it these last two years and runs like it is brand new which is why I am reluctant to tear the bottom end apart.
At this point it seems to me like something bottom end related because I have exhausted all my other options. Could a worn lifter bore or worn cam bearing cause a low oil pressure condition in the lifters? I haven't seen any glitter in the oil when I change it though. If anyone else has had the same issues then I would love to hear how it was fixed because it is irritating me to no end.
Just felt like this was the right place to air my frustration. I've finally found and bought a brand new heater box assembly, seal kit, and heater core for my 70 coupe since the old box had a gigantic crack through the middle of it. I have it disassembled to the point where I can get the front half of the box into position, but as soon as i add the seal to the intake... everything fails. I'm having trouble compressing the foam ring seal enough to where i can get the heater box studs through the firewall. I'll try again tomorrow when i have more help and some better light. if anyone has done this lately and has some tips, I'd love to hear them.
I'm Drew and thanks for the add to the group.
I look forward to going through this group for my mustang answers.
There is a 68 coupe protected by a layer of moister absorbing and UV blocking protection (sawdust) in the corner of my garage.
I just purchased a 2000 Explorer with the 5.0, as a donner vehicle. It's starting to get cold here in Ohio, I'll be putting some time in.
I've never done a motor swap before. Hopefully, I can save some headache from advice from the pros.
I’ve been having this issue for 2 years. Hasn’t been drove because I can’t fix it. When I crank it up cold it’s fine, then when it drops to idle rmps it will dip to 200 rpm real fast and then back to 700 back and forth fast until it dies. When I rev it up, it will come back down to 1000 rpms and hang there for 2 seconds and then come back down to 700 before it starts surging again. And it’s pretty rough feeling. I have done everything foxbody guys have told me to do. I’ve cleaned the egr, the maf, the iac. There’s no vacuum leaks. I have replaced icm, spark plugs, wires, rotor, rotor cap, ignition coil, thermostat, cleaned throttle body and put new gasket on it. I cleaned the maf and iac but they could still be bad idk. Can someone please help. Btw by temp gauge doesn’t work at all. I think it’s a temp sending unit but it might play apart in a electrical problem if y’all think it’s that which I hope it’s not because that will be a nightmare. Oh yeah the tps is set to 0.98 with a base idle reset. Thanks
Thank you everyone for all your help in the past. I cant tell you how much I've learned from here!
I had a cooling issue a few weeks ago. Temp would be a little more than half way on the stock gauge, then go up kind of quickly to the next line then back down and back up all while driving.. It never overheated but it was just running too hot for my liking and the engine just felt excessively hot. I was running a 195* stat , a Champion 2 core alum rad and stock fan. So I decided to replace everything! This passed week I replace the thermostat to a MotoRad UltraStat. Stainless steel 192* that came with a jiggle pin, Changed out the water pump, installed a HD fan clutch and replaced the rad cap to 16lb.. The cap that came with the Champion rad was 13lb according to the manufacturer. I'm running 50/50 premix.. I burped the system using the funnel system.
I ran the car yesterday (idle and revving only) and all the new parts seemed to do the trick. The temp climbed slowly to juuust under the halfway mark and stayed there. The upper rad hose became hot and pressurized so I know the stat opened. The HD fan clutch is definitely working and moving way more air than before.
My question and possible issue is: When the car was up to temp which was just at the half way mark or a little under the half way mark, the upper hose was pressurized for sure and hot, the car idling for about 20 minutes or so. Nothing went into the reservoir tank. The coolant just stayed on the cold line the entire time. The engine itself definitely now had a cooler feel to it than before I changed all the parts. The hvac heater puts out hot air too. It is ok or normal for the coolant not to expand into the res? I know this means the cap never opened due to it not reaching 16lbs of pressure? Now when I turned off the car and let it cool, I eventually noticed the radiator sucking some coolant out of the res but not much..
Is this normal or should I be concerned? Should I put the 13lb cap back on?
My son replaced the front pads and in the process damaged the right caliper. He replaced with a used unit and then did not drive the car more than a few miles and parked it. He did use it on occasion. Fast forward 6 months and he finds himself with three cars so Daddy buys the Mustang.
I immediately felt here was a brake problem because there was practically now pedal before the car began to stop. I am talking about maybe 1/4 inch. It seemed to stop ok but with a bit if extra effort.
I took it in the road a few days ago and at a stop light noticed smoke coming from the right front. I checked and it was so hot the lug nuts boiled water.. It is now home and I am about to take the brakes apart. I am going to list what I will check and ask if anyone has additional suggestions. By the way this has the Hydro Boost system, something I have never delt with. Is there anything regarding that system I should be aware of?
First thing I am going to check is the slide pins. I would bet $100 he did not lube them. At the same time I will check for stuck pistons and cocked pads. It has been a long time since I had to do brakes and I do not think I could recognize heat damaged rotors unless they were burned blue. Any suggestions what I should look for?
Regardless what I find in the hardware I will bleed the front brakes. Hell I might as well bleed them all assuming I can get help. Is there anything special about bleeding the HydroBoost system? It looks pretty straight forward.
I know the HydroBoost uses power steering pressure to charge the booster. The steering appears to be fine except on the highway if I want to move right or left it answers fine but will NOT come back to center unless I command it.
Am I on the right track with my plans? Any suggestions? Has anyone ever had this experiences?
Bought an upgrade kit from CJ's to put Cobra front brakes on my GT. It came with Hawk pads, was on sale earlier this summer, but the rotors got backordered, so I am finally pulling it all out of the box and trying to assemble. I snapped the pads into the piston assembly, but the wear indicator tab seems to interfere with the caliper bracket no matter how I align the pads. Anyone ever see this issue?
See the pic of the pad sitting just in the bracket. Unless I'm just being dumb, I'm not sure what to do. Bend the tab? If it rotate it to the left, it hits the side. If I rotate it to the right, the back of the tab hits the cross piece on the bracket.
The time has come to sell it. Medical bills mean I need the money, and I just don't have the drive to complete it.
$4000, located in Temple, Texas. Runs and drives, but it's a 47-year-old project car and I'm throwing in a lot of extra parts including an entire Mustang II V8 C4 transmission and an un-modified hood, so bring a trailer. A whole tote of new and used parts, including motor mount kit, rack-and-pinion boots, a headliner, and more is included.
My new to me 91 5.0 GT grinds when shifting into first at a complete stop. If I push very slowly it will engage but I can feel the individual synchro gears as I am doing this. The trans was rebuilt about 40K ago. total of 122K on the drivetrain.
I have not had a chance to get it on the lift yet to check fluid level or cables etc...
Can someone point me in the right direction? Anything specific to this mark I should look for. I am totally new to Mustangs.
What are the factory premium radio / cassette head unit and under seat power amp worth these days? I think I also have the dash and door speakers. Might be putting it all up for sale. It’s the original stuff from my 92 LX.