I'd also recommend buying a good wideband.

@Mustang5L5 Thanks for replying. Friday, I mulled over several ideas and have determined that I need to make a 1" thick adapter out of aluminum to be able to use the Explorer throttle body. The engine is for a truck project and it will be using an Explorer 5.0 throttle cable. 58mm to 65mm is 12% larger.
As it may sound like I would be tuning an engine to fit a tune, bin file, I'm wanting to use the same parts as my first 5.0. 19lb injectors (it's not a race engine) 65mm Ex throttle body and "Godzilla" coil set. Later I will up the injector size a bit when I move up to a 2003 Marauder pcm and Explorer intake assy.
The pic on post #6, shows the flange of the 1994 plain 5.0 intake. After the sun comes up, I will get a better picture. Of the flange. I won't be able to get a pic of the throttle body until Monday.
I had kind of a drastic idea to have the bolt holes of the '94 intake flange filled in by welding then drill a new hole set to match the Explorer throttle body.
There is not enough surface area on the 94 Mustang flange to do such and I didn't really want to modify a near antique part. I need to find a good young Machinist that it a Ford fan to help me out on the machine work for the adapter.
Pic below of the first bit of design scratch.

Stock fuel pressure will be fine with that setup as will the Expo injectors, x2 on the fuel pump upgrade.

From my experience, the 70mm TB on that combo creates a transitional lean spot that the stock ECU cannot adapt to. At approx 50-65% throttle under load the AFR would hit 17.5-18.1 range. AFR at WOT, idle, coast, etc was all perfect. The lean spot and high injector DC is what prompted the swap to a PimpXS ECU.

Tried that, I get the same result.

That’s the thing, I’m not getting an error message. My new picture appears next to the “choose file” button for a few seconds, then my avatar flashes the new image for a blink and reverts back to the old image.

At the same time this happens, the “choose file” section goes empty, like I haven’t selected a picture yet.

I’ll try on my laptop later today and report my findings. Maybe it’s a problem with the image itself.

limp said:

It was a 440 six pack car... Hemi 18 spline 4 speed , 9 3/4 dana rearend

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Beautiful. Textbook example of a “muscle car.” Chrysler co. was doing such cool things back then, I don’t know what happened. They seem to have struggled ever since Iacocca left and Daimler took over. Too much accounting, not enough engineering.

Don’t get me wrong, I loved the hellcats. I think they’re all guaranteed future classics, I just wish the rest of their lineup was half as interesting. Right now, Jeep and Ram are carrying the company, Dodge is about to have a make-or-break identity crisis with the new electric charger, and I really don’t know why Chrysler (the division) still even exists. It’s sad.

What MAF do you have? MAF's are calibrated for a particular injector size. So to switch back to 19s, you need a MAF that is calibrated for 19s.

Fellas! I have an update for all of you!!! I got myself that 3-in flapper down pipe from stinger, a wastegate from Chip, and some adapters and stuff so I can use some IHI parts. almost done my exhaust side of the engine. I need to do some plumbing with my dad, we're going from an to SAE refrigerator SAE refrigerator fittings, so I can reuse my old oil line. I like it better than the braided one I got from Chip. I still need the c-clip that holds on the wastegate actuator arm my ihi clip is the wrong size. I have a v band I need welded to the downpipe figure I'll get it welded when I have more of the exhaust so I can get both halves welded at once. Also, do you guys think it'd be a good idea to replace my oil pressure sensor? I polished it up and then realized if the engine had 300,000 miles on it it might not be so good. Next on my to-do list is the intake side of the engine. I have to get my oil breather can mounted
distributor mounted
dipstick mounted
Upper intake mounted
fuel rail mounted
injectors
All of my coolant sensors,
And EGR / vacuum lines

I also need help figuring out wich sensors are wich and were do they go! Thanks!

Then I think I'm at the point where I could consider dropping the engine into the car but I would still have to do all the vacuum and vam wiring

Alldegree said:

It’s crazy to me to think that the cars that are classics today were once just regular cars that people drove to work and high school. I guess it’s probably because that car was already considered legendary by the time I was born. Was that a 383, 440 or 426?

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It was a 440 six pack car... Hemi 18 spline 4 speed , 9 3/4 dana rearend

So if I change to 19 fuel injectors can I use same maf?I tried installing some explorer ones and car just shut off. And they were the explorer 19s orange.

General karthief said:

Why are you swap'n in 30's? For a WOT lean condition?
What have I missed here?
I'm following your other thread.

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I m only looking to figure out why my car isn’t running right. It used to run right so I’m just looking to get my car running the way it was assuming that the fuel injectors are the issue. I have a set of 19s but if I remember correctly when I installed them the car would just shut off.

Just tried on chrome, same thing happened.

Sounds like a job for the janitor
CLEAN UP ISLE 3!

Why are you swap'n in 30's? For a WOT lean condition?
What have I missed here?
I'm following your other thread.

limp said:

No reason to have nightmares, everyone on this site is usually pretty helpful...
I reread your original post and again, you might have really low ( high ratio) rear end gears...
I had a 69 Super Bee when I was in HS with 4:10 rear gears.... Same thing with that car, you were grabbing for 2nd pretty quick.....

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It’s crazy to me to think that the cars that are classics today were once just regular cars that people drove to work and high school. I guess it’s probably because that car was already considered legendary by the time I was born. Was that a 383, 440 or 426?

I really wanted a big block mopar before I got my fox, I had my eye on a couple clapped out 440 c-body wagons and an Imperial coupe, but I honestly didn’t have the garage space. Those cars are enormous.

I did get in contact with the guy I bought the car from and he says he believes the car has a 3.73 rear end, but I’ll try to Jack it up this weekend and spin the wheels. That sounds like the best way to confirm without cracking the diff open.

limp said:

I screwed up a few seals too... Purchased a seal installing kit which made the job much easier....

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Big time sucks. But in other crappy news, I purchased these because I couldn’t get the OEM ones to work. Well I don’t remember what was wrong with those ones, but they seem to fit fine now.. what the heck?

red5.0fox said:

These are what mine look like, and I screwed up a seal trying to take them off again so I guess the assembly is postponed another week anyone wanna buy a Foxbody?

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I screwed up a few seals too... Purchased a seal installing kit which made the job much easier....

These are what mine look like, and I screwed up a seal trying to take them off again so I guess the assembly is postponed another week anyone wanna buy a Foxbody?

gt40P heads with beehive springs and viton seals...

No reason to have nightmares, everyone on this site is usually pretty helpful...
I reread your original post and again, you might have really low ( high ratio) rear end gears...
I had a 69 Super Bee when I was in HS with 4:10 rear gears.... Same thing with that car, you were grabbing for 2nd pretty quick.....

TwoRockTwo said:

Does the new valve stem seals look the same as the old ones. There are different styles for different situations.

The inner spring is really a dampner, I would reuse it unless you’re going back with a stock camshaft.

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That’s what I figured. I got the trickflow VSS that are for “dual springs”. The inner spring is just super super tight around it, but it does fit.

Right now I’m trying to reinstall the springs and holy hell these keepers are going to be the death of me.

Bullitt347 said:

My guess is that the radiator has an aluminum core with plastic end tanks.

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Ok. It's an SVE Aluminum version.

My guess is that the radiator has an aluminum core with plastic end tanks.