Hello
- Thread starter DollyDagger
- Start date
. I figured this would be a good place to learn and share. Pleased to meet you all, and see you around.-
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cenok is family
15 Year Member
347_stang
New Member
ill advised
Member
1987LXragtop
Member
hey
Thanks for the warm welcome, guys! I am really excited to be on here. Sorry for the delay, just got caught up with work and school. I got the car for dirt cheap, 250$, which is why i could justify buying an automatic. I come from a world of inline 6s and manuals haha, particularly BMWs. I have been having major electrical gremlins with the bmw and starting school this week when this deal popped up i couldn't refuse. The car runs strong, but has some mild transmission issues. I did an oil change, and transmission fluid change (are all auto tranny changes that messy haha?). As you can see the body is in great shape, but has some oxidation. What are you guys opinions on what i should do with the steed? My opinion is fix up the bmw back to running shape and then work on this with the bmw as a backup driver. Here are my pictures that you all want to see
with my 1990 325i Cabriolet
with my friends Focus
Thanks again for the welcome and i hope to learn alot here!
Daniel
Thanks for the warm welcome, guys! I am really excited to be on here. Sorry for the delay, just got caught up with work and school. I got the car for dirt cheap, 250$, which is why i could justify buying an automatic. I come from a world of inline 6s and manuals haha, particularly BMWs. I have been having major electrical gremlins with the bmw and starting school this week when this deal popped up i couldn't refuse. The car runs strong, but has some mild transmission issues. I did an oil change, and transmission fluid change (are all auto tranny changes that messy haha?). As you can see the body is in great shape, but has some oxidation. What are you guys opinions on what i should do with the steed? My opinion is fix up the bmw back to running shape and then work on this with the bmw as a backup driver. Here are my pictures that you all want to see
with my 1990 325i Cabriolet
with my friends Focus
Thanks again for the welcome and i hope to learn alot here!
Daniel
cenok is family
15 Year Member
you got that for $250?? good find man! first things i'd do performance wise would be a 5 speed swap, exhaust, gears, and subframe connectors.
You don't say!?
Typical European luxury car...Anyway, once you figure out the BMW, it should be your DD. You're going to want to start modding the 5.0 like crazy, believe me!
+1 Good start there.
Welcome to Stangnet... 
Not all of us know how to fix everything, but some of us know how to fix some things
with excellence!
If you want to do the fix up & power up thing, make sure that you have some other
form of reliable daily driver. That way the stang can sit while your wallet and hands
take a rest from the last project that didn't quite get finished on that 3 day weekend.
Things always cost more and take longer the first time you do them. Having some
other working vehicle makes life easier since it isn't the big crush to get it running
for the Monday morning drive to work or class.
Plan on spending some money on tools it you don't already have them. The stang
has both metric and american fasteners, so you really need two sets of wrenches.
A timing light, digital voltmeter, vacuum gauge, compression tester, fuel pressure
test gauge and fuel line coupler tools are some of the test & tuning tools you'll need.
Visit the pawn shops and sometimes you can find a deal on tools & test equipment
if you stick to well known name brands.
A sheltered work area is almost a must, someplace that you can leave the car in
pieces without upsetting anyone. Some guys here have changed a transmission in
the parking lot of their apartment in a rainstorm, but they will tell you it wasn't fun.
Depending on where you live, a warm dry garage is a nice place to do the winter
projects that stangs tend to become.
EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) Computer - every stang after 85 has or had one:
don't let it intimidate you. The computer based EFI systems are not hard to fix
and most of the time they tell you what's wrong with the engine. Here's a book
that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.
Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by James Probst:
ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.
It's about $25-$35 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select b...d.php?t=643651"]Useful Technical Thread Index” sticky at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum.
Things that break often:
T5 5 speed manual transmission (syncros go bad, mostly 3rd gear)
TFI Module (Thin Film Ignition module - mounts on the distributor)
Electric door locks (see the link in my sign for a cheap & easy fix)
Ignition switches – they overheat and cause flaky wiper, radio, heater blower & turn signal problems.
O2 sensors(oxygen sensors) They are good for about 60,000 miles and start to go
down hill after that.
TPS Sensor (Throttle Position Sensor) causes flaky problems with idle & acceleration.
Fog lights They overheat the wiring and cause the headlights to flicker. The fix is
cheap and simple if you can do electrical stuff.
Harmonic Balancer – they separate between the hub and outer ring. A harmonic
balancer puller is a must have to change it. You can rent or borrow a puller from
most of the larger auto parts stores.
Things that are very durable:
Engine - as long as it hasn't been abused, it will run good for 150,000-200,000
miles without an overhaul
Rear axle other than an occasional case of worn clutches in the traction lock,
they almost never have problems.
Computer - believe it or not, the computers seldom have problems of their own.
Most of the problems are with the sensors and the wiring.
Suspension – the front and rear suspension has very few problems if the car hasn’t
been wrecked or seen a lot of drag strip runs. The drag strip runs tend to distort and
tear the mount points for the rear axle control arms. Revving the engine up to 4000
RPM and dumping the clutch with slicks or drag radials tends to break things.
Things that don’t break often but are hard to fix:
Water pump mount bolts – they corrode and shear off when you try to change the
water pump.
Rear oil seal on the engine – lots of parts to remove to get to a $20 seal.
Power steering pump – the pumps are noisy and the pulley requires some special
tools to remove and install. If you have the tools, they are easy to do. Again, the
larger auto parts stores will rent or loan the tools for the pulley.
Power Steering rack - it is hard to get the toe in set so that you can drive the car
to the shop to get it properly aligned.
Starter – the top bolt is hard to get a socket on if you don’t have the right combination
of socket, universal joint and extensions.
Everything considered, 5.0 Mustangs are not hard to work on. They just require
some patience and though before you get started.
Not all of us know how to fix everything, but some of us know how to fix some things
with excellence!
If you want to do the fix up & power up thing, make sure that you have some other
form of reliable daily driver. That way the stang can sit while your wallet and hands
take a rest from the last project that didn't quite get finished on that 3 day weekend.
Things always cost more and take longer the first time you do them. Having some
other working vehicle makes life easier since it isn't the big crush to get it running
for the Monday morning drive to work or class.
Plan on spending some money on tools it you don't already have them. The stang
has both metric and american fasteners, so you really need two sets of wrenches.
A timing light, digital voltmeter, vacuum gauge, compression tester, fuel pressure
test gauge and fuel line coupler tools are some of the test & tuning tools you'll need.
Visit the pawn shops and sometimes you can find a deal on tools & test equipment
if you stick to well known name brands.
A sheltered work area is almost a must, someplace that you can leave the car in
pieces without upsetting anyone. Some guys here have changed a transmission in
the parking lot of their apartment in a rainstorm, but they will tell you it wasn't fun.
Depending on where you live, a warm dry garage is a nice place to do the winter
projects that stangs tend to become.
EFI (Electronic Fuel Injection) Computer - every stang after 85 has or had one:
don't let it intimidate you. The computer based EFI systems are not hard to fix
and most of the time they tell you what's wrong with the engine. Here's a book
that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.
Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by James Probst:
ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.
It's about $25-$35 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select b...d.php?t=643651"]Useful Technical Thread Index” sticky at the top of the 5.0 Tech forum.
Things that break often:
T5 5 speed manual transmission (syncros go bad, mostly 3rd gear)
TFI Module (Thin Film Ignition module - mounts on the distributor)
Electric door locks (see the link in my sign for a cheap & easy fix)
Ignition switches – they overheat and cause flaky wiper, radio, heater blower & turn signal problems.
O2 sensors(oxygen sensors) They are good for about 60,000 miles and start to go
down hill after that.
TPS Sensor (Throttle Position Sensor) causes flaky problems with idle & acceleration.
Fog lights They overheat the wiring and cause the headlights to flicker. The fix is
cheap and simple if you can do electrical stuff.
Harmonic Balancer – they separate between the hub and outer ring. A harmonic
balancer puller is a must have to change it. You can rent or borrow a puller from
most of the larger auto parts stores.
Things that are very durable:
Engine - as long as it hasn't been abused, it will run good for 150,000-200,000
miles without an overhaul
Rear axle other than an occasional case of worn clutches in the traction lock,
they almost never have problems.
Computer - believe it or not, the computers seldom have problems of their own.
Most of the problems are with the sensors and the wiring.
Suspension – the front and rear suspension has very few problems if the car hasn’t
been wrecked or seen a lot of drag strip runs. The drag strip runs tend to distort and
tear the mount points for the rear axle control arms. Revving the engine up to 4000
RPM and dumping the clutch with slicks or drag radials tends to break things.
Things that don’t break often but are hard to fix:
Water pump mount bolts – they corrode and shear off when you try to change the
water pump.
Rear oil seal on the engine – lots of parts to remove to get to a $20 seal.
Power steering pump – the pumps are noisy and the pulley requires some special
tools to remove and install. If you have the tools, they are easy to do. Again, the
larger auto parts stores will rent or loan the tools for the pulley.
Power Steering rack - it is hard to get the toe in set so that you can drive the car
to the shop to get it properly aligned.
Starter – the top bolt is hard to get a socket on if you don’t have the right combination
of socket, universal joint and extensions.
Everything considered, 5.0 Mustangs are not hard to work on. They just require
some patience and though before you get started.
Haha i knew someone was going to bring up the German electrical system .
my plan is to fix the bmw to running then throw a 5spd in. the overdrive is not functioning for some reason. What i have gathered is there is a grommet that fell off (guy i bought it from mentioned it but i think he said he replaced it?) that causes hard shifts and something regarding the overdrive? or my band is all messed up. but that is speculation, as i know as much on an auto as i do rocket science.
jrichker, that was a very informative post! thanks for that. Doing my oil change andtranny fluid change i realized there were quite a few metric sizes. I have a few tools here and there that i acquired over time. I pretty much did an engine swap on my BMW with a target toolset and borrowing a cherry picker.
Thanks again and i hope to be able to help and learn here!
.my plan is to fix the bmw to running then throw a 5spd in. the overdrive is not functioning for some reason. What i have gathered is there is a grommet that fell off (guy i bought it from mentioned it but i think he said he replaced it?) that causes hard shifts and something regarding the overdrive? or my band is all messed up. but that is speculation, as i know as much on an auto as i do rocket science.
jrichker, that was a very informative post! thanks for that. Doing my oil change andtranny fluid change i realized there were quite a few metric sizes. I have a few tools here and there that i acquired over time. I pretty much did an engine swap on my BMW with a target toolset and borrowing a cherry picker.
Thanks again and i hope to be able to help and learn here!
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