On Going Gt Wheel Hop Issues

[DZ408]

Or what I think is wheel hop. I've posted about this before, then decided to ignore the problem, now it's driving me crazy again so I'm ready to address it.

So

2016 GT automatic, CnL CAI, borla catback, Bama tune, m thompson street comps 255/275

Being that I was an inexperienced stang driver, when i first bought the car I would hammer the gas to the floor at a stop and take off, no problem. Once I modded and tuned it, and I've been through a 100 tunes, was no longer able to go to the floor from a stop. Can't even feather it, have to ease into it. Basically I get what I think is wheel hop, tires spinning, except in wheel hop videos I've seen other cars recover pretty quickly. My car wants to spin the hell out. Scary and frustrating. I literally cannot take off like this car should.

So based on whats been suggested to me here are my options
1. Pull the CAI and go back to stock tune.
2. Rear control arms
3.bmr irs cradle lockouts
4. Subframe bushings, vertical links, subframe braces
5. Get a Lund tune because bama are idiots.

Does ANYBODY know what the best approach would be? Has anybody heard or seen this problem before? Again, the problem is not that I'm losing a little traction, the issue is my car loses control if i hit the pedal even halfway off the line. It's that auto shift from 1st to 2nd that is especially dangerous.

Thanks everyone.

 

[tbertran]

#3 FTW

 

[Brian8891]

If the cradle lockouts don't help you... it's not wheel hop.

 

[I Bleed Ford Blue]

It sounds more like a traction issue to me. Try getting some drag radials, and a cradle lock out.

 

[pwt's17]

I put on the Steeda Subframe Bushing Support System and Subframe Alignment Kit. Handling is improved in tight curves, but it didn't help wheel hop much.

Judged from videos, differential bushing lockouts and lower control arm spherical bearings are next. My guess is I'll upgrade every bushing and bearing in the IRS before I'm happy. But, I'm not happy unless I'm ordering goodies anyway.

 

[DZ408]

Hey thanks for your help everybody. So I spoke with my shop, really good guys, they said if I can get everything to go ahead and do so, eliminating the trial and error along with extra labor. "Everything " is a loaded gun so I'm trying to narrow it down to what I'm absolutely confident in. So so far I've chosen:

1 BMR IRS Cradle Lockout Kit
2 BMR Billet aluminum vertical links - spherical bushings

Any other suggestions? Also looking at

http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda-irs-subframe-bushing-system-2015.html

http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda-irs-subframe-alignment-kit-1516.html

http://www.americanmuscle.com/steeda-irs-subframe-braces-2015-coupe.html
(Somebody in the reviews says you can't use this with cradle lockouts. Anyone know if this is true?)

http://www.americanmuscle.com/bmr-front-subframe-chassis-brace-hammertone-1517.html
(Front end is squirrelly so hoping this tightens it)

Is any of this overkill? Do I need to buy bushings separate from the cradle lockout kit? Do I sound like a complete idiot even asking these things??

Thanks everybody, hopefully the end is in sight.....

 

[pwt's17]

"(Front end is squirrelly so hoping this tightens it)"

I've had ding-a-lings at both tire shops and dealerships swear the air pressure listed on the tire is what should be in the tire. The Max air pressure listed on the tire will make almost any car un-drivable. I find three to four psi over the door sticker recommendation to be best. Much more and the car starts getting "twitchie" and "squirrely". Please check tire pressure. If tire pressure is okay, an alignment check is called for.

I had a modified suspension 07 MX-5 (2,600 lb) for six years before my 17 Mustang. And, although the Stang will never corner like the big go-kart, it drives and corners well for its size and weight. If you're having problems keeping the Stang going straight down the road or holding a line in a curve, there's likely something not quite right.

As for wheel hop - youtube, youtube, youtube. The biggest unwanted movements you see on video clips are the first things that need to be addressed.

 

[Real time recon]

I had a Big problem with wheel hop on my 67 Chevelle SS 396....Tried Everything....Then, I built a pair of traction bars out of 1" solid Sq.cold rolled steel....End of problem !! They looked something like these .Only mine were longer/bigger/heavier .
>> http://www.jcwhitney.com/lakewood-ladder-bars/p3092115.jcwx

 

[DZ408]

So what causes a mustang to start going sideways off the line? Wheel hop or wheel spin?

 

[I Bleed Ford Blue]

Wheel spin

 

[DZ408]

Will cradle lockouts and vertical links help wheel spinand wheel hop? I know stronger RCAs do but I don't think they make them for newer gt's? My mickey Thompson street comps didn't help at all.

 

[I Bleed Ford Blue]

Wheel spin is a byproduct of overpowering the tires. There is only 2 things that will reduce or stop wheel spin, launch easier or get better tires.

 

[DZ408]

Any other opinions? This is my list so far. If nothing else hopefully my gt will be safer off the line. Am I leaving anything out?

 

[DZ408]

Do I need bushings or is this stuff enough?!!

 

[Boone]

I supported or replaced all the rubber in the rear assembly, I no longer have wheel hop.
Add spherical bearings in the arms to your list.
BMR has them. You can call Kelly over at BMR and run this past him. He's really helpful and knows his stuff.
813-986-9302