Search results

Turns out, it was the injectors. I took the “pencil thin” injectors out and put the factory Bosch ones back in. Started RIGHT up. I sincerely thank everyone who helped. It’s been a long run, so far. And the work is just getting started. https://www.facebook.com/share/v/hZh1Ev6cHvcJ7DBj/?

I’m back. Finally had a chance to readjust the valves. It runs but only on two cylinders. #2 and #4 are the only header pipes that get hot after about 30 seconds of running. The rest of them, you can put your hand on and not get burned. I adjusted the clearance out of each rocker (zero lash)...

It all makes sense now, right?

Yeah. As soon as I pulled this engine apart I put the lifters in motor oil. That’s just good practice.

I have a complete Ford distributor in it with a Motorcraft TFI and cap/rotor.

I was thinking about this yesterday and decided to try it today: I pulled the valvecovers off and loosened each rocker 1/2 turn. It actually started and “sort of” idled. It ran like complete dog crap but it does run. I even revved it just a little. My thought is that when it “started” back at...

Well, today I shot some 2-cycle oil into the cylinders, set the spark plugs at .040”, swapped-in a “known good” Ford distributor, re-checked the compression (it’s now up between 120-150 psi) and put it all back together. It seems to be closer to starting but still doing the same thing while...

Dang it. I’ll report back tomorrow. Lol. Edit: Yes. That is exactly right. Intake valve closes, HB is at TDC and the rotor is at the #1 terminal on the cap. (I guess/hope there’s no need to tear into the front of the engine, now.) It’s close enough it should start. I knew I did it right. It’s...

I only have one spark tester. It produces produces pulsed spark, as it should. Plugs are getting spark. I have to figure out a way to verify the sparks are happening when they're supposed to without killing the cylinder walls. In other news, I pulled the valve cover to make sure the...

I’m pretty sure I checked that when I was installing the pushrods and rockers. Turned the crank to the next cylinder in the firing order to set them up. I will definitely check it again. Will need to pull the valve cover on that side. At least it doesn’t have the plenum hanging over that side...

In a roundabout kind of way, yes. All of the sensors have the correct voltages and are providing the correct information back to the computer. Today I installed a new NAPA coil and throttle position sensor. No change.

I’m trying really hard to not kill this thing before I even get to take it around the block. They were certainly as ubiquitous as the Taurus in Europe.

Didn’t read the whole thread? The engine has never really run at all. The swap was done in February and I’ve been trying to start it ever since. Back in the first post, I needed to work the gas pedal to keep it running. It has never idled or really even run for more than 5 seconds. No one is...

I mean I’ve moved it all over. Not that the timing is all over the place. I have reset the distributor many, many times with the exact same result. It is “rough timed” right now. I have seen my mark very close to the “correct” time. What would cause intermittent spark? I’ve checked the coil...

Well, I don’t know what to tell you. Because it doesn’t start. I’ve had the distributor all over. I’ve seen it well within the timing that you referenced and it doesn’t start. I try to not turn it over too much to avoid flooding and washing down the cylinders with fuel.

I have about 120 psi of compression on each cylinder. Rings are not seated so I don’t think I should have the normal 160 psi.

Here’s where are today. MAJOR discovery. This is that “likely something stupid” that may have been the issue. I read about these engines being notorious intake vacuum leakers so I grabbed my ratchet, extension and 1/2” socket to check the intake bolts. Sure enough, every single one was loose...

I’ve built a few of these in the past and this problem has got me wondering if I set the cam in the right spot when I put the timing chain on. I’m also wondering about the firing order and that maybe someone swapped this to a non-HO cam at some point. (It sure acts like it.) Believe me, I’m...

I did try that. Won’t start, even with starting fluid.

I don’t understand what you’re suggesting. The harness that I’m using is a brand new harness made for engine swapping the 5.0 Ford into any chassis. All I need to provide is 12v switched, 12v constant, 12v run and grounds. Those all exist for the harness, as it sits. There is nothing beyond that...