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I don't come around much these days, but wow, nice work man... I know what it takes and it's a pain. Very nice...

If nothing is obvious, like the dowel, Probably stand the trans up on the tailhousing, slowly turn the converter while wobbling it somewhat to engage it fully into the pump... Like mentioned, it's probably not all the way into the pump...

Yep, that sort of hose is exactly the thing. Just use GOOD quality clamps and flare the end of the metal tube slightly..

Wow, I was recently at a dealer and they were cool with it. Prolly to get it in and sell "other stuff" they need to replace to do the job, haha...

I haven't done the recall on mine either... prolly should as the switch replacement is free... So far so good, and I HATE to leave it anywhere that some mechanic could take it for a spin... Sigh...

He is "The Man" for sure...

Mine is more than 3/8 away and still contacts the radiator a bit. Particularly once the plastic frame is hot and the off balance fan blades start causing the motor supporting structure to start twisting the assembly around, or I make a decellerating turn. Seems that the whole blade and shaft...

Personally, if it was my new motor, I wouldn't run it. The system will think you have 19 pound injectors, and will duty cycle for their amount of expected fuel delivery. The 30 pounders will be dumping a 11 pounds more fuel into the cylinders per that duty cycle. I'm thinking this could...

I bought my BBK when they were a local walk in store to me. I have the 255, and it had walbro stamped on it. Been running for a couple years now with no troubles.

double post, oops

Yes, I have the Bosch 75 amp relays and I'm having troubles with them heating up and needing to cool down a few minutes before they will cycle back on after they have been running a bit. Doing it again, I'd definitely listen to Michael Yount and get the controller. If I don't find a solution...

After having done the MK VIII install, I'm not sure I'd go that route again, or at least I'll do it a bit differently. That SPAL system looks good about now. The MK VIII unit I received from Houston Performance has so much play in the shaft that the fan actually wobbles at speed, and when...

Yes, the AOD return is the lower fitting on the transmission. The AODE/4r70w return is the upper fitting. Look to the trans for this as someone "may" have altered the lines at the radiator somehow. I personally run my B&M in series with the OEM cooler in the radiator. I just do it to get...

Sometimes when they're that bad, they'll leave the threads in the pipe when you do actually get them out. Sometimes you;ll destroy them getting them out. Usually a good muffler guy can get them out with the right torch technique, some guys are magical with a torch. No idea what they'd charge...

Most all off road pipes have those. Many people don't do away with the air pump and the diverter valves/thermactor system so it is a good place to quietly vent the air off to. Otherwise that air pump makes quite an unpleasant noise out of the hoses if vented openly.

That is an off road H-Pipe... Not a stock unit.

K, I see. Maybe get a shorter belt and bypass the pump. I have an off road H-pipe, bypass the pump with a shorter belt, remove the diverter solonoids and hoses, and use rubber cap plugs on the the pipes from the H-pipe and cylinder heads.

You realllly need air into your cats... I believe that you're ruining them. I'm not quite following your smog pump mod, but, I'm thinking that may be the hiss... Why did you do that? You basically need that air in the cats to increase the temps in them, otherwise I think they will clog...

If you're not used to doing it, they can be quite a pain to get off the hangers on the ground. Actually, they're a pain on a lift! haha... Best bet, considering your unsafe, no stands situation, take it to a good exhaust shop, and have them pull them and tap, or weld a new bung for the O2...

Maybe this will help...