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Your lucky then, you want that actually. Your next paint job over the old one is only as good as what's underneath your new paint. If a cheap paint job was done without sanding and primer and then repainted over that with the best of paints its still only as good as the cheap job as far...

Did you install the stock dist w/ points/ condenser? If so and no spark again try the wire from pos battery again to coil and see what happens. If it runs it'll help you start to narrow it down to a possible short I would think. Start also following all the hot wires right up to the...

This is one more reason why I stick to the original distributor w/points and condenser, and carry spare parts in trunk for it. If you have your old dist. try that or like you said borrow your Dad's and try his. I'm betting it'll fire right up as you covered most of the suggestions so far...

Will look for date code tomorrow, had no time to spend on these today. Just a quick look at both today though along with my neighbor and we both agreed they look identical on the front end slope.

Hood? I've seen 1964 1/2 hoods listed different than a 1965, mine's and early 65, will that interchange (before I find out the hard way?) Rear axle? I believe the universals are supposed to be different from the 170 to the 200 c.i. . If so will it bolt up as a replacement with a special...

I'm planning on starting to visit there alot real soon, probably starting tonight, under same nick as here. I figured all T codes in 1965 were the 200 c.i. but wasn't 100% sure, the 1964 1/2 I got today for parts is the 170 c.i. U code.

From research so far the "D" indicates from a Falcon, 1960-1969:shrug: It is however a 65 from the "5" Thanks for the reply, will order parts for a 200 c.i.

Looks like your about a 4 1/2 hour drive from me so that rules that out (back problems). Your not moving northward by chance are you? I'm in Binghamton, N.Y. and can currently only do about a 1 1/2 hour trip one way, then back (total 3 hours). Love to have that as a spare as I plan to...

Set your steering wheel inline first before you do anything, I plan to loop and tie mine to the brake. I had a homemade 2x2 wood setup I made when I had my 68, it attached to the wheels from behind and I used the outter longer (about 4') for front to back measurements on the wheels. It used...

The Mustang is an early 65, not sure if I have a 170 or 200 c.i motor. Block has the 5 freeze plugs. Block also has the following on it: C5DE 6015-H The orange/red paint threw me off that it may be a 170, 170 air cleaner stickers are orange where as all 200's I've seen are blue:shrug: Not...

Thanks, will go with CJ's and see how their quality is, sounds better than M/U's. Old one went back in in 3 minutes, that's how it should work out. Don't like bashing a co. publically but I sent back alot of M/U's parts lately and its taking the fun out of working on this car anymore.

It took about 10 tries and two sets of hands along with some vice grips, small screw driver and it finally slid out, this was a tough one. Now 3 hours later and plenty of modifications tried on my cars lock mechanisim the JUNK PART from MUSTANGS UNLIMITED snapped so the old part goes back on...

Tried that (kind of) but only on a few different angles. Will try what you suggest and I'll bet it'll pop. Thanks for the input.

If the car drives fine at all speeds with no vibration etc... most likely then it is the motor mount(s) as said. I checked my U-joints by hand on my old 68 with my brother who's also a gearhead and both seemed fine, car would start shaking in drivetrain at around 30 MPH. I discounted $500...

How does this lock unit separate from the housing? The pin (red arrow to) how does this pin come out/push in? I thought it was spring loaded but doesn't seem so. Just WD40-ed it since its 45 y/o. Have a locksmith down the road but want to finish this tonight, any help appreciated. And...

OK, thanks for the replies. I know one thing, I'd rather replace the dash pad than a headliner. Will post some pics if I get the car.

How difficult is it to do? I'm currently looking into a 65 that needs the dash replaced. Any makers to avoid?

Change the condenser in the dist. as well, that caused me some headaches last year. Car would run smooth, then start running rough and eventually stall, I thought it was a fuel problem at first. Another coil is also cheap enough to replace to rule that out.

I believe the three bolt ball joints where on 6 cyl. Mustangs, they were on my last 68 when we replaced them. It's actuauly stupid that Ford made a 4 and 5 lug Mustang as well, why machine all these new parts when they could have just done 5 lug on all of them with the same ball joint...