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really? damn, for some reason I assumed they were 2 digit codes. Gonna pull some new ones tomorrow. It is so strange how it is running. Now, when I first start her and take off she runs fine. Revs fine, holds idle, etc.. THEN maybe 3 minutes after she is running, it reoccurs. After maybe another...

Thanks for the response. Today I cleaned the EGR and cleared the codes. I came back with similar but fewer codes. 17 25 33 engine off 17 21 35 engine running hmmm any advice where I should start?

Ok, I pulled the codes...this was the first time doing this. I ran a wire and read them off the flashes of CEL. I spent an hour repeating, so I feel they are accurate. Heres the list. 17 RPM below self test limit 73 TPS sensor did not exceed 25% rotation 61 ECT has intermittently failed...

So I just bought the 4th V8 Stang I have ever owned, 3rd 5.0. It has 49k miles. Immediately I put new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, fuel filter, oil and filter, and brand new IAC from Ford. She is 100% stock underhood, o/r x-pipe, flowmaster catback, and 4.10 gears (assume). Problem is...

I have an amazingly new looking factory h pipe and intake manifold (upper and lower) from my old 90 5.0 lx. I have kept it so long because of the condition it is in. Now its gotta go. Make an offer and take it PLEASE. I live in South FL.,

Progress...I took her to an auto glass shop today. The guy confirmed the bottom, middle of my windshield had broken loose from the resin! Soo, being that I had been chasing a busted bushing, mount, etc...I am fairly confident replacing my windshield will fix this thud. BTW, the guy said this was...

Well I could take pics....but it looks just like yours would if you took the cowl off. I hear the noise while driving. From the inside it sounds like it is coming from the area where the dash meets the windshield, directly in the middle. This is where I can thump the glass and the noise is...

OK we can make this easy...what is the responsibility of the cowl?

I have been experiencing the infamous popping noise coming from the front end since I owned her. So today I pulled my cowl off to check the tightness of my strut tower brace; hoping to find a loose bolt which would cure the pop. While my bolts were NOT tight, they now are. But still no progress...

I have never seen them online, but have seen them for sale on ebay...round 70 bucks or so..

Got it! WoOW that mustve been the most frustrating job I have ever done. I actually unlocked the steering wheel, this enabled me to lign it up correctly. GLAD ITS DONE. Thanks for the positive response TROUT!

ANYONE? searching the web, but nothing so far...HELP

Ok, finished installing new rack bushings, now I cant get the rag joint to slide back over rack input...the column will slide onto the tip of the input, but it just wont settle into it. I know its not fully settled because there MIGHT be only a 1/4 inch of insertion. Hope someone has a...

Although it is a nice complex, there are no cameras. The car was parked in first gear and yes the e brake was set.

Ok, this morning I experienced something I used to get with my '84 5.0 5spd. As I started to let the clutch out and give gas, my car started shaking, rather violently. This only happened for maybe 1-2 seconds; it disappeared once the clutch pedal was disengaged. This shaking caused the WHOLE car...

Well, the tow facility was 7 miles away, I would HOPE that rules out them dragging my rear tires... Honestly, the sound is not consistent, but if I am in second gear and accelerating, at say 1700 rpm, and immediately let off the gas it will "dutatuh" and same when I immediately throttle back on...

What could have happened? I was an idiot and left my temp. parking pass in an "unobvious" area, and she was towed. Before she was towed, I had her parked in first gear with the e brake pulled. Today, after recovering her, there is an obvious new noise coming from the rear that is reverberating...

ok so why does anyone put an adjustable in if it shortens the life of your clutch? assuming I am competent enough to adjust properly, why would a new cable not enable the clutch to disengage more efficiently? I have never heard/read anything negative about adjustables before...anyone?

I am attempting to get the most out of my current clutch, just to spread out the cost of numerous upgrades needed. Would replacing the cable and quadrant (adjustables), help me get more life out of current clutch? If not could any harm be done?

I experience similar noises. Originally I thought it was tranny mount, replaced with no improvements. Then changed u-joints, no improvements. Next step for me is to replace motor mounts and spring isolators, then pray. Following this I will replace my control arms with adjustables to fix pinion...