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To get started, I'll go with a set of aviation snips, spot weld cutter/bits, and maybe an angle die grinder with cutoff saw. Do you guys think something like this would work for most applications--sawing/grinding--or should I go with a 4.5" angle grinder? Also, how necessary is it to have...

Good call on the spot weld drill. So that's one recommendation for a reciprocating saw over a rotary saw. Any other suggestions? Aiming for clean, precision cuts, maneuverability in tight places, etc. Thanks.

I finally decided that several patch panels are necessary to move forward. (The screwdriver actually decided this for me when it kept punching through the pitted trunk floor.) As far as cutting out old panels, trimming new patches, grinding edges and smoothing out welds, what air tools are...

Trailer hitch... that's interesting. Thanks. So were those holes custom drilled for the hitch or stock locations by Ford on all stangs?

I was pulling out my gas tank and came across these bracket-things that BARELY covered the top edge of the tank, bolting into the trunk floor. Also, they just popped out, as there were no nuts securing them underneath. Were they supposed to just thread into the floor sheet metal? What purpose do...

Unless you are media blasting or chemical-dipping your car, wouldn't an acid etch or other form of metal prep be beneficial for neutralizing leftover/unseen rust before priming?

If you are sanding down to bare metal I believe you should use an acid etch which will bite into the surface and neutralize any corrosion that you can't see, followed by a high build primer.

I guess I wasn't as ready as I thought. I still have to remove all the old sealer, which I'm learning is imperative for the process, since it's all rotted, crumbly, and apparently hiding rust along all the seams. And I also determined that the current heater core had leaked at some point...

Thanks, I will give the Scotchpad a try. I already have all the Eastwood products I mentioned. Expensive, but supposedly top-quality, which is why I want to make sure I don't screw up my prep-work and application.:nono:

I have pretty much stripped out the interior of my car to deal with some rust issues. I know that welding in some patches is necessary down the road, but I currently don't have the equipment nor the skill to tackle this 'properly', so I settled on getting PRE, Rust converter, and Rust...

Thanks, D.Hearne. I was going to ask woodsnake about which secondary was on the Shelby 715. And that coincides with what I read, that larger vacuum carbs are more forgiving, whereas your performance will suffer if your mechanical carb is too big. And I decided that I don't know enough about...

I know that the best evidence is hands-on driving, trying out different sized carbs, both vacuum and mechanical. But my car is taking an extended nap right now until I probably end up doing top-end rebuild. So I was basing that on other discussions and articles I've read and, of course, the...

Good to see that the 4777 isn't completely out of place on my car. I forgot to mention, I have a 4spd. It looks like most of the discussions I've come across suggest mechanical sec for lightweight cars with manual trans. and lower gears. Seems like for our cars it really comes down to whether...

Happy Thanksgiving y'all! THe Holley I found on my new '65 is a 4777-4 (4150) 650 cfm double pump. I also found an Edelbrock performer, an MSD 8582 (mechanical advance only) dizzy, and old headers. The PO said it has a mild cam but I have no specs on that or on the cylinder bore (engine was...

Thanks, I will keep the spring in place then for now. I'd rather have to slam the door shut than to watch it pop open on the road. :eek:

I already know that the problem involves the latch spring. If I disengage it, the latch moves quite easily, but when the spring's in place, the latch is hard to move and thus requires significant force to engage the striker. Is there a way to relax this spring a bit? I'm believe on my '65 it's...

So is it normal for gas to spray out of the 4 and 8 spark plug holes when running a compression test at WOT? The front 6 holes are just blowing air. Thanks.

Yes, I believe white smoke is supposed to indicate burning coolant. Either way, the fact that it's coming out from the engine instead of through the exhaust should tell me that I have a leak somewhere on the engine, right? I attempted to do a wet compression test today. I really wanted to...

I'm not sure either, but the hose definitely had a fair amount of fuel in it when removed. There was also a mist (not sure what) spurting from the left side of the engine, difficult to pinpoint where (maybe the exhaust manifold or head gasket?) each time I cranked. The smoke is white and comes...

I tried to do it while the engine was warm, but it took me forever to get my plugs out, so I doubt it was anywhere near operating temperatures. I ran the test 2-3 times on each cylinder. In almost every case, the value dropped after the initial reading before stabilizing. (normal?) On the 8th...