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either can be had in 5 lug. some 17x9 for the front, and 17x10 for the rear.

You're probably right. You'd need the setup necessary to carry the car through the "grunt" of launching. Know what would be sweet? A flywheel where a set of weights could be swapped out through the inspection panel. :nice: Figure out your launch method and fine tune by adding/removing...

Question: Will you launch with the nitrous or will it come on after launch?

... and just to throw some more BS into the mix... I'm thinking that for a track car (think quarter mile) running DOT tires or 10.5s and either a turbo or centri blower that the aluminum might be the better choice (generally) where higher rpm clutch drops might be the launch method of the day...

I could see how folks who are having trouble getting traction off the line might go to aluminnum flywheel. I can see two benefits: Less rotational inertia = less initial shock to the driveline = lowered chance of breaking wheels loose at the line Less rotational mass = Less power required...

Yep, I think this will likely be the answer until I have time to custom make an enclosure. Rest assured, when I do though, I'll post it up for all the other <86ers.

High volume water pump for street machines = Teh Lose If your cooling system is up to snuff (i.e. good quality radiator, hoses, coolant/water mix, etc), then the standard volume pump is MORE than adequate. If you have all of the above mentioned items, and your cooling system is in good shape...

It sounds to me like you've covered all the bases. It's gotta be down to tune then. Have you looked hard at the throttle linkage? There's nothing preventing the throttle blade from completely closing or causing it to hang open, is there? I've had that happen before. The throttle blade was...

Well hell yeah... if I'm going to buy one, might as well get the one that's the most idiot proof. lol

Damn... you should be getting a code for 02 sensors.... unless... it is stuck and staying in open loop? Bucking is often a sign of a mixture that is either way to lean or moderately to more rich. With your description of other symptoms (blue/black smoke, having to advance timing), I'm...

Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh..... Me like! I read the description and thought it was saying that you could program different shift points for each gear.

Swap a stock MAF in and see what it does. My guess is that your meter/computer/injector combo have everything running way rich. Pull codes

Well it's no fun if you're going to play along. /thread :notnice: :D

The kewl part is that Stangnet's most EPIC threads have started off just like this one. :rlaugh:

The information for calibrating these would be a sweet addition to the technical thread index!

Sweet! Now it's time for:

Fridays are underwear swap days. :banana:

. . . . . . http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/8327768-post76416.html . . . . . .

N8... will you be my bestie???