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I didnt clarify my point very well on the 351. Im not building the 351 stock, its going to be a HCI build and WILL have hardened shaft, high volume pump, and aftermarket rotating assembly. Repair on the 302 is complete. Car has oil pressure again. When I first started it, all the lifters were...

so in other words if i were to continue running this motor for years and years i should expect the same problem again in the future? I suppose thats a little more motivation to get my 351 build moving forward.

The metal that was in the pump looked to be a peice of metal from the gears themselves. The clearance on the OD of the larger gear was more than i would prefer. I checked the screen while the pan was down and it was clear. Also ran magnet through pan and even wiped pan out with rag to see what I...

Magnet came out fairly clean in pan, just typical break in material. I decided while i had the pan down i would remove oil pump and just inspect the internals. Its a good thing I did, the backside of the outer gear had a gouge in it where a peice of metal has gotten into it so even though it was...

In about to go get stated on it again. I'm going to run a magnet through the pan and see what i get because i agree with you. It seems odd. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

*UPDATE* Ok, I started tearing into it tonight. After about 30 minutes of trying to pull the peices out the top (I almost got them) I said screw it and started removing the pan. Took about 45 minutes to get the pan loose. A note for anyone who comes across this post in the future, you can get...

Couldn't the ring just be removed so that it can be installed from the top like an oldschool 302? Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

If I recall there is a certain year astrovan that uses the correct length axles which allows for a direct swap to use your existing rear for a 5 lug conversion. IMO that's the easiest way., Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk 2

You should be able to install a 4 cylinder pilot bearing and use the v8 bellhousing and it should work. The trans should hold up as long as you don't launch the car hard. The svo made as much horsepower as the v8s but the torque was lower. Check spline count on input shaft. I cannot remember if...

Decided to start a new thread since my other thread was poor performance related. To recap, after a long series of small fixes, lots of cursing, and roughly three bottles of scotch, I got my 89 gt running correctly. First successful teat drive was night before Thanksgiving. Drove 50 miles to...

Ok, ill be picking the car up tomorrow night and dragging it home, Then tearing into it on sunday to figure out wtf is going on. Im no expert on oil pressure issues on these motors, BUT, this is my understanding, someone please correct me if im wrong. There are only two major components that can...

Scratch that. I just lost oil pressure 50 miles from home. I'm gonna go shoot something and then figure out how to get the car home. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

Thanks for all the help. Car did great this morning. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I717 using Tapatalk 2

If thats the case, grab yourself a set of gears, a rebuild kit, some gear dope, and set aside a saturday.

A good fluke is a worthwhile investment, great meters, but on that note, harbor freight cells a centech automotive meter that has alot of useful features, and its like 25 bucks. I got one just to try it out, and for over a year now ive used it and never had a problem. I leave my fluke in the...

It sounds to me like your clutches are burnt up. It will cause more play and open diff. The car will run fine for years this way, it just wont put power to both tires if you get them spinning. If you dont plan to rebuild it however, change the fluid more often. You dont want all the trash from...

*Update* Following jrichker's guide, tested o2 sensors and they are good. I started scouring the engine for vacuum leaks. I did not directly identify any, however, i did notice some lines that were hardened and dryrotted. Just for kicks, I went through the entire engine bay removing vacuum...

All three of those codes will be thrown because the EGR system is removed. Your problem sounds notoriously like a leaky map vacuum hose.

That makes alot more sense to me as my understanding was the only reason for retiming the teeth is if you are so far off on tooth count that you cant rotate the distributor far enogh to get the correct timing without the plug wires stretching or the tfi hitting the thermostat housing...

Ok, I removed cap, rotated motor to TDC using balancer as a guide, then removed #1 plug and rotated back and forth to verify that motor is in fact at TDC on the compression stroke. Rotor is almost pointed at #1, which since timing is set to 12 degrees advanced makes sense. A friend of mine...