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This works.. Leave the strut connected. Put a floor jack under the control arm spring seat. Remove the control arm bolts, drop the jack, and slide the spring in. Raise the jack carefully, the spring will be under tension, and guide the arm bolts back in. Use a long screwdriver or metal rod to...

KC for me too... Works fine not hard at all...Drove a Ford heavy duty setup and thought it was stiff as "ell"....KC not nearly as bad...IF it's hard or has a high pedal effort replace your clutch cable, most of the drag is in the cable... Put mine in with a new cable and no problems...

Your running an off road H-pipe and what kind of Flow's... I'm thinking if their 2 chamber it's going to be "HELLA" loud.....

If it's a 5.o disconnect the small hoses at the throttle body to let air escape...Generally the highest part of the cooling system... Run it w/o a thermostat and see what happens...Or replace it, you can get a bad one new...Double check it's in right, I always have to double check because I...

Sounds like the starter not engaging properly if it happens when you crank it..Remove the coil wire and crank it and see if you hear it...Just for giggles remove the starter and reinstall it...Could be just removeing and replacing the starter made it go south... Does pushing in the clutch...

Looking to put a OEM 6 CD Head Unit in a 91 coupe... I know after market would be easier but I want the big buttons and rotary knobs... :) Anyway does any body have a source and part numbers for plugs to the back of the head unit, a pin out giving the wire color to hook up the...

Find a level floor somewhere. A concrete garage floor would do, it's realitively level. Jack the car up and put jackstands under the front control arms and the rear frame half. Any twist should be apparent as long as the front stands are the same height and rear are the same height and the...

Back when I drove a truck I came up on a State Roads truck along the interstate...You know the ones where all the guys are leaning on shovels and stuff...Only one guy leaning on the shovel and the bugger had a radar gun in his hand...Chase cars were on down the road...

Hope you mean FMS C vs. B... Anyway I have the B's and love em...Tightens thing up nicely... Rode in cars with both and the C's are a bit firmer (harsher). Firmer than I wanted anyway esp. for city driving or rough roads... IMHO.

13 + months and still trying...I feel for ya... Ya know i'm almost thinking the injectors might be to big for your setup...At idle their putting out to much fuel (even with a short firing time) and when the rpm comes up it gets to a point where the injectors are feeding the proper amount of...

Welcome back to last year...sorry :D Strange how the HC drops as soon as it comes off idle...Almost like to much fuel at idle..Verify the A/F ratio at idle and see what it does with some RPM... Maybe closed or is it open loop when the ECU dumps fuel in when the motors cold at idle ...

Throw out bearing.... With the car running and pushing the clutch in your putting pressure on the throw out bearing...When you release the clutch the pressures off...When the motors off the bearing's not spinning... 99% of the time it's the bearing...

Michael, I have mine in the t-stat housing and it's kind of neat to see it jump off the bottom and show the temp when the t-stat first opens. Kind of a visual reference that the t-stat works... Usually happens about the time I begin to wonder if the t-stat is going to work... :D

FMS B springs here...Love em...C's are a little harsher-firmer IMHO... New shocks "might" help some, but when they wear your right back where you started...Remember the car sits on the springs and thats were the ride height comes from...The shocks are there to dampen the body bounce on the...

Just a quick thought...10 to 1 is way to high if your thinking turbo or supercharger...Most say about 8 or 9:1 I think...Not sure,,, Still if your rebuilding for something specific you should check it out...

Even for a "cheap" rebuild you should get the engine stripped down, cleaned and someone with a good set of micrometer's(sp) to check the clearences...You'll need at least that to get new bearings and rings to fit-seal... If you have blowby now putting time and money into just replacing stuff...

Look up Ranchero 50's post on Indy Mustang....He knows what he's talking about and respected on here...Check his post count... Cheshireccat run b-4 it's too late...If theres any doubt about a place at all there are better places to spend your money, why take a chance...Read DropTop again...

Unless your just throwing out ideas I think you need to sit down and make a plan. For starters you need a block b-4 you can rebuild or build a stroker...Unless you go with a crate motor... Build a good foundation then build the house...

Stock is fine...When I did the AOD to 5 speed I used a new cable and the KC...No problems...

2 ideas... with the motor off push in the clutch and slide your foot off it...Let it bang back up...Thats one way to get it to adjust... The other way you have to stand on your head and get up under the dash by the acceclerator pedal...find the 'white" plastic ratchet the cable hooks to...