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what backseat? I took mine out for the amprack :-)

I personally hate having rears in a car...best soundstages I've heard come from fronts only, or if anything, just a hint of rear fill. By running fronts only, I've found that you usually have a better chance of tricking the ear into thinking the bass is coming from the front as well, creating a...

with my gt, I ended up building two separate boxes for my 12s, and to get them in or out of the car, the spare tire and trunk latch had to be removed. Even then, the edges of the boxes were scraping as they went in. Just bought a 96 cobra with the 460 stuff, so I get to start tearing it all...

I seem to remember a guy from mustangworld.com coming up with that, or something very similar. Was a Socal guy, and he put together a purchase for a number of members. I can't remember his name though. The car was an all blacked out 99 or 01 cobra, and his plate deal was the prototype.

Those D5s are some nice lookin amps...and a TDX would just be a lot of fun. I had a set of the Hex components, 6.5" with the silk tweet. Really enjoyed them. Still have the speakers, actually. Do you know happen to know if it's possible to buy the crossover for the set separately?

Thanks, but I think you might be thinking of the previous setup: All the current equipment was purchased after that stuff was stolen (except the subs), and the install changed to this:

Sony C90, running through a Sony 210EQ, with a Sony CDX 828 changer, all running optical. PPI A300.2 and PPI A600.2 (these are the Art Series amps they don't make anymore). Focal Polykevlar 6 1/2" components up front, and two a/d/s 312rs.2 12" subs. Absolutely happy with it all...

Ohms, not "Olms". What are you trying to tell him with "balance your Hz going into each tube"? Granted, it's generally not a great idea to run an 8" sub down to 20 Hz, but I don't see how that has anything to do with what you're saying about the power and resistance of the amp. Like...

It sounds like you're using the gain knob on the amp as a volume control....Not what it's intended for. The gain is used to match the amp to the headunit. If you turn the gain up too high, all you're doing is sending a clipped signal to the speakers, which is what causes them to fail. What kind...

Just another thought...are the amps both grounded to the same spot, or do they each have their own grounding point?

When you say you've regrounded everything, you are making sure to scrape off any paint or other crap at the grounding point, right? When you say "everything", does that include regrounding the head unit itself?

Input is usually in stereo, although you probably wouldn't miss much if you only hooked up one channel or the other. As for the Mach system...never messed with it, and hope I never do, but I'm fairly sure there are no preouts, so you'd probably be using a line out converter to get a signal for...

Might try www.facereplace.com

I haven't had a chance to look at the cd, but would that Bachbusters track happen to be Tocatta in B?

Sometimes you find it under that name, although it might be called something like "gutter repair tape". It can be hard to find sometimes, and I do believe that only certain stores actually carry the stuff. If you don't find it there, you could give Lowe's a try, or Menard's, if you have one...

Sounds like this has turned more into a "songs to show off your subs", instead of "your system" :D I like Clapton, a lot of various Classical pieces, I like "One" by Metallica for showing how quick a sub is, when Lars starts going off on the kick drum towards the middle/end. Allison Krauss...

The markup on actual "Dynamat" is pretty huge....Like was mentioned in a couple earlier posts, there are much cheaper alternatives; Peel n' Seal (the stuff at Home Depot), Brown Bread, Fat Mat, and Raammat, among others, are all essentially the same thing as Dynamat; they just don't have the...

You shouldn't need a dash kit if all you're doing is replacing the HU. As far as getting the factory piece out, look for four small holes, two on each side, towards the corners of the face. Now, you can either go out and buy a "Ford Radio Removal Tool", or you can get a wire coat hanger, cut...

Unless you have some monster woofers, or you made a box out of 1/4" particle board, you shouldn't have much issue with vibrations damaging the amp, if that's what you're worried about. If it would make you feel better, you could use a little foam tape or sound deadener under the mounting points.

So what was the problem?