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you might wanna see if anybody in your area does paintless dent repair... i just had a guy come out and remove 2 dents in each door, 1 in the rear quarter and a couple on the deck lid... he charged me $125.00.. the came out perfect.. . he says he does most of his work for car dealers...

I am looking for ideas for an exhaust system for my 93 5.0 vert. It's pretty much all stock.. I am looking at the Flowmaster Force ll cat back but since we don't have emissions testing in my part of PA I'm not sure what to do (if anything) with the cats.. Any ideas would be appreciated..Joe

I just had the same problem...you don't have to replace the whole clutch.. you just need the hub...I got the part from Rockauto.. it was Motorcraft # YB289A...I had to unbolt the compressor from engine( I believe I left the compressor mounted to the mounting bracket) my brother-in-law had the...

Food For Thought For anyone planning to do this r&p conversion i would recommend considering Randalls Rack... i know its more money but it is a true bolt-on.. at least it was for my 68... i also dont like the idea of that extra u-joint... also the randalls is power ...and was no problem with...

what brand rack & pinion did you install???

actually i pulled the plug off the regulator and put the diode in the plug ...the directions indicated which wires ti jump...i left the volt reg in place just for looks...if you need more info let me know... joe

i put a power master in my 68 a few years ago and had to put a resistor ( maybe it was a diode?) at the regulator...the instructions came with the alternator...i believe it was so the amp guage still worked...

i have the comps jet hot coated on my 68 289 , no power steering, and cable actuated clutch ( t-5) ... i did wrap the cable but its not really that close...

if the line you ran is specifically for a welder and you get the mig just put a 120 v. 20 amp receptacle on it and change the breaker from a 2 pole 220, to a single pole 20 amp...Joe

most stick or arc welders use a 50 amp plug which requires #8 wire...Joe

yes i have one on my 5.0...i originally had a 289 then swapped in the 5.0... the interchangable weights came in handy when i went from 28 to 50 oz...i also believe it was under 100 bucks...Joe

the purpose of the weld is to hold the bolt securely to the adapter so you can tighten the nut from underneath the car..once everything is tight it doesent really matter if the weld breaks although i dont see why it should...Joe

you are on your own there...you will have to buy the nuts and bolts ...i would weld the bolts to the adapter and use the original nuts with the spinning washer...Joe

hi.. yes you will need the new center link..you will also need a pitman arm and idler arm for manual steering...i did the same thing on my 68 and like it a lot better...Joe

make sure you read the fine print regarding any suppliers return policy...i did have an issue with mustang depot but after i complained they made things right...i usually deal with cj pony parts...Joe

im looking at the randalls rack.. its power , but thats what i want...ive only heard good things about it...BTW, i agree that sometimes its better to ask than to look at old posts ...Joe

i wouldnt expect too much over the weekend, but randall has always replied to my emails very quickly...im sure he will reply to you as soon as he can,,Joe

i bought a lot of stuff from cj and have been to the store a couple of times...great to deal with ..no problem with returns weather its your mistake or theirs...Joe

http://www.geocities.com/midlife66/wiring/wiring.html

welder feed your best bet would be to run a line from the panel (8/3 UF) to a receptacle by your welder...put a new 50 amp breaker in and your all set... let me know if you need more info... joe