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is that the head for $500, in the upper left corner? it looks ran to me....who did the port work?

the one is in the block (under the oil press sender) is for the gauge the ECT is normally in the intake,either between the #2 and #3 injectors OR in the bottom end of the lower intake

yes it should be in the intake, between #2 and #3 fuel injectors

why? anyhow....try NAPAonline.com or Oreillyautoparts.com

get the rear outt of a 87\88 TC, the autos have 3.73 and the sticks have 3.55, both are disk brakes,8.8 and lim slip, a good quiock up grade if ya cant find the 87/88TC the other TC's had 3.45 and a lim slip in a 7.5 some with 9 in drums others with10 in drums for a cheap headder just hit...

hey man, its a quick check......alsso didnt ya tell me ya was about a tooth off to??? ya might of jumed another tooth Im up and about till about 10pm CST, Call we'll have a brain bash

I would have to agree with stinger and HAL... I had the same deal on a TC once,along with some other things,no stedy idle,surging, running WAAAAAY rich, I swapped out the ECT,TPS,IAC and baro all that help some, but still glowed, I ended swapping out ECU,just cuse I had a spare...and it all...

a good thing to do,but not nessary, is replace the starter solinoid at the same time, a decent one is about $15.00 at any part store

the turbo mounts to the exhaust mainfold on the SVO and TC the major diff 'tween a svo engine and a TC is.... the 87/88TC have a smaller tubo (IHI) and a top mount IC 83-86TC have a garett T3 and no IC the SVO has a Garett T3 but the internals are the same -pistons,rods,crank,valve size...

ahhh there are a few.... get a big valve head get a big roller cam headder off a ranger AFPR advance your timing a few degrees loose the slincer in the inlet track Kand N air filter, drop in or cone under drive pulleys bolt a turbo on swap a turbo engine in if an auto car swap...

hey man, dont jump right to the pump, the 2.3 has a fairly common problem, you might have sheared the gear at the dizzy/aux shaft. just pull the dummy shaft out and check the gear, if all is good there, then go to the pump. I have sheared that gear more than once..... give me a call again...

its a slip fit, it could have some rust in there, soak it with some Deep creep or PB Blaster and knock around it (IE NOT beat the hell out of) with a brass hammer and work it back and forth if ya want give me a call (850)485-2300

I would have to agree,, Your just not in the right place looking. Im 6 hours south of ya In Pensacola Fla. I know where there are TC hiding if ya want one for a swap

yes it will bolt on, BUT depending on what year head and what year headder you use some headders will cover the AIR holes under the exhust runners and others will not, some heads have AIR holes and others do not if your head has AIR holes and you have a Headder that dose not cover...

there is a small notch in the crank seal plate at 11 o'clock and a triangleinside a circle stamped into the crank gear line those two up and youll be at TDC with the crank, also there is a line,(looks like it was done with a chisle) in the belt washer, that also lines up with the notch in the...

your going to do a time belt change for the most part by the book for what ya have to do Id guess 3 to 4 hours and you'll need to do an oil change too you'll need a aux shaft and a dizzy if ya need them let me know I have spares best bet is to e-mail me

well man, welcome to the club, you have a good start on what ya need to learn. Between Stingers,TF and NATO websites and the links provided therein you should be fine. Good luck and have fun

well some one has put a small main block in your stang, My 85 ranger had a small main block/crank with a carb'ed 4 plug head...... the info i posted came out of Clevite77 engine bearings catalog dated 1999 catalog2-200-99 page 206 block 8

looks like you have a "small main " crank 2.2051 std main .022 under on the mains and and ya got a lil lost on your math on the rods 2.0465 std rod, your claming 2.018 a diffrence of .0285 so you have a small main crank ground under .020 main bearing part # MS1743P.50mm and Rod...

dude you would be time ahead just to pull the engine out.....youll spend more time to R&R the rack than it would take to just pull the engine also I would almost bet money you'll have a oilpan leak from slipping gasket tring to put the pan back in place Basicly quit wasting time and just...