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if its the original windshield, any decent glass installer could save that window. ford used butyl tape which is VERY easy to cut. i've never broken one up that i've tried to save that was original. however, if its pitted from small rock hits, you might as well replace it. i don't know...

I live in upstate NY and from what i've read, only 96 and newer cars will require a sniffer test. Anything older will still only have to pass a visual.

are you using the stock or aftermarket gauge...may just be the sender/gauge is on the way out.

ok, i'm an idiot...the first thing i looked at was the fusable link from the regulator...i didn't see anything wrong till i took all the wires off the starter relay and lo and behold, there is a killed fusable link. Thanks for the help

ok, just got the battery load tested and it checks out perfect...i picked up a 4 gauge cable that i'm gonna run from the alt to the frame....would from the top mounting bolt work, or will i have to go to one of the housing bolts? thanks

Ok, now i put in a 3g alternator a while ago, using 4 gauge from the post to the positive battery, unmodified d-plug, and a female spade on the white/black wire from the square plug. ok, now the problem. Every once in a while, the amp light will light up and the volt meter will show just at...

i've never torqued them down, just make the real tight. it takes a bit of effort to crack them loose, so just give them a bit of effort going back in.

yea, mounts are in the same spot, and you need conversion headers and oil pan...do a search, there are a million good threads on it.

early to mid march normally

if shouldn't give you too much problems getting it out as a complete unit, however if its giving you trouble, you can pull it. is it stick or auto?? if its 5 speed, just unbolt the trans from the bellhousing and pull the block with the bellhousing on.

a friend of mine had a small problem with his cobraRsvo hood dripping water right onto the cap, causeing his car to stall and just not start till it was removed and dried out. if you think this will be a problem, but the stock leather or rubber distributor cover back on

and i forgot to mention, i recently added (a month and a half ago) a 3g alternator. figured that might contribute to it.

Ok, when i bought my 88 GT, the foglight switch was completely bypassed. (no wire going into the 2 pins on the back.) However, when you put the switch of the first position for parking lights and dash, etc, the foglights would come on automatically, and in the 2nd position the foglights would...

this i'd like to know too because the n2o solenoid on my dry kit is not firing with pressure. without, they both fire fine, but with pressure they will not open.

i actually run 275/60/15 bfg drs on stock 10 holes. it rubs a little taking turns (till i rolled the lip), but otherwise they do fit and i run them at 12 psi at the track without incident.

check (not sure you can) VSS on speedo cable.

if the engine speed is still increasing, the tach will still go up regardless of wether the trans is slipping or not. If you can hear the engine speed increasing and the tach is still staying still, your tach is just bad.

yea, if you have the 4 bolts off of the trans, just grip and rip. Just a factory seal (rtv?) use rtv to seal it. seems to work good for me. P.S. while you got the shifter off, you might as well change the trans fluid.