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I went with a Currie center section in the 8" rear on my '68. Their traction-loc diff, and 3:25 gears. I don't have any problem putting one together, as I've done many rear end builds and gear changes over the years, but when I did the math on what it would cost for all the parts to put one...

I used Prothane motor mounts in my '68 and have more vibration also. Mainly at about 2,000-2,500 rpm. It's not terrible, but you can definately feel it. Expecially if you are sitting at a stop and just rev the engine.

This whole idea is just WRONG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:nono:

Here's a pic of the fuel system under the hood, and the line going up to the cowl.

It's hooked to a T coming off of a fuel regulator with a stainless braided line. My car is carbureted. I built a custom fuel system, as I run nitrous on the car also. I'll post a pic later this evening.

Here's mine. Autometer mech. on the cowl.

Hurst competition plus is a good unit. I have one on a T-5 and another on a Tremec 3650. Both are short throw with good feel and engagement, and like Rapid says, Hurst makes many diffenent styles of handles for them to fit the reach position you like.

I use parts from 3 of your listed suppliers quite often, and have found that NPD's sheetmetal parts have fit the best more times than not. I used their full quarter panels on a '67 coupe and the fit and contours were very good. Didn't take near as much work to get right as some lower quarters I...

You've got one beautiful car there! Try the 17's. I put some on my '68 FB, and am very happy with them. Even the purists (and I know quite a few) say the car looks right with them. It all boils down to what YOU like on your car. Again, VERY nice car!

I would recommend a 650 Holley. If it's a stick car go with mech. secondaries. If it's an auto go vacuum, unless you're running a high stall converter with low gears. You're correct in saying that most folks over carb. My '85 has a very healthy 302 with a 150 shot on top of it, and a slightly...

My hats off to ya MRab! It's a great site, and I've enjoyed it very much all these years. :nice: ....Bob

I'm also one of the first year members. Been here since Nov. '98. I've belonged to several Mustang sites over the years (and still do), but Stangnet has always been my favorite one. It's seen me through the builds of several Mustangs. Although I don't post as much as I used to, I still check in...

With a couple of flat steel or aluminum bars and round stock to cut to length and drill holes through for risers (spacers for height), you can make just about any seat adapt to your seat tracks. Also you can get universal tracks and adapt them to your new seats. Either way, adjust the tracks mid...

I have a baffled Canton 7 qt. pan on my 331. That's what DSS recommended, and the quality and fit is excellent. With the kick-outs on the sides, there's no clearance problems either, even with the car lowered.

Worked out great! I have about 2,000 miles on the 331 so far and it runs very well. Nice lope at idle, but with a 2600 stall converter it will sit at a stop light in gear, and come out of the hole pretty strong. Nice and torquey down low, but really gets with the program about 3,500 rpm. Just...

Just E-mail him. He'll take care of ya. :nice:

I agree. I put this kit on my '68, and am really happy with it. Dennis is great to work with, and he'll help right away if you should run into any problems. Kit is complete, and works fine.

I went through the same thing. I tried getting a 570 Avenger to work with the 331, but it just wasn't going to happen. Thought about going to a 750, but the 670 worked out really well.

How do you like the Carb? I put a 670 Avenger on my 331 and it runs great. Really happy with it. :nice:

I got my 331 long block from DSS. Went with Edelbrock RPM 2.02" valve heads, and a trick flow cam. Same Lifters and rockers as you have. I did go with a 7 qt. Canton kick out front sump pan, since they told me the horror stories of using the stock oil pan. They quoted me roughly 400 FWHP in the...