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I’m not on here much anymore, but I just found your posts on your research/build interesting. I currently have tfs 38’s on a 20 over teksid block with coyote rods, 9cc pistons, and a port matched svo intake. I currently dynoed at 343/335 on a mustang dyno. You’ll have no problem getting to 400+whp.

I just checked my old parts pile and my old upper strut bushings have a metal sleeve for the threaded end of the strut to go through. I had poly ones that had the same thing. I also checked autozones website and they show duralast rubber replacements with the same sleeve.

I don't want to come across as a jerk, just trying to help but are the bushings in the right way? Narrower end should face up. Also isn't there a metal sleeve inside the bushing or is that only for the prothane ones. If so, could be moving inside?

Do you have c/c plates? If so, maybe the bearing in those went bad? Otherwise upper strut bushing could be bad.

I'd call AM again. I got a email tune a month ago for my car with a MHS stage 2 PI cam. It made a huge difference than the bolt-on PI swap tune I was running before. And yeah, it was only $50.

Any good shops on this side of the state. I currently have a xcal 2 with some tunes on it and would like to still use it. I'm installing some cams and will probably need a tune. I also don't want to break the bank for a dyno tune, just want someplace reasonable and good.

Here's my money pit

Any dyno #'s for these yet? I'm guessing one of these would be a good cam for a DD PI swap car? Or would one of the NPI cams be a good fit? BTW thanks for all of the good info. Your hard work is greatly appreciated.

x2 I like all the info MHS has put out too. I'll have to talk to them about a good PI swap cam.

here ya go

car08 002

car08 003

mycar 001

mycar 002

ygpC90F

Thanks man.

here ya go

My money pit

Yeah, it was definitely stiffer overall feel.