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You said the control arm bushings are fairly new, is that all 8 of them? Including the upper bushings on the axle housing? Stock control arms or aftermarket?

+1 Remote keyless entry and factory alarm moduals

Best to have it bead blasted. If you can find someplace that does that it would probably be the fastest, easiest, and only cost maybe $20 or so.

It is the cannister purge solenoid. Basically one end of the vac line is connected to the charcoal canister and the other to the intake and during cruise conditions it opens and lets fuel fumes from the cannister into the intake

The Explorer and Cobra (GT40) intakes are essentially the same casting on the inside, just look a bit different on the outside. They do flow the same though. Now a tubular GT40 intake flows the same but is made with individual pieces welded together instead of cast, but usually have a heafty...

So you just leave a 5/8" gap all around between the trans and bell? Isn't there a locating lip/ring on the trans that fits into the bell to help center it and keep the input shaft inline with the crank? I wouldn't think using the washers as spacers on the 4 bolts would make the tranny as rigid...

Actually you were correct, but just had it the other way around because most usually try to put a fox tranny in a sn95 not a sn95 tranny into a fox....lol

The OP is putting a (longer) sn95 trans into a fox.....so if you use a sn95 tranny in a fox with either the sn95 bell or a spacer plate on a fox bell the tranny would sit further back closer to the rearend.

Yup, but when they do they run a spacer on the pinion end of the driveshaft

That could also be due to heat soak into the intake causing the intake air temp to be warmer, not necessarily because the block or coolant temp is too hot.

McLeod makes an aluminum spacer for use with their SFI bellhousings. Their bells are fox length and the spacer is used if running in an SN95 with a SN95 tranny. The spacer is like $250 though. You are wanting to do the opposite, run a SN95 tranny in a fox and it will actually set the tranny...

I believe around 200-205 is about optimum for fuel economy, emissions, and longevity. Big radiators are great in the summer heat, but suck when the weather turns cold. Try taking a piece of cardboard box and sliding it between the radiator and condensor to block off part of the airflow...

I still run a stock replacement 2 core (about $100) because space was an issue with the vortech crank pulley. It works fine with my 500+hp H/C/I 302 with a 180 stat and the fans adjusted accordingly in the tune. Temp never gets over 200. Not sure what all the original poster has done or...

Yup, they are plastic and crimped on to the aluminum core. A good radiator shop should have a crimping tool for this and may be able to just tighten the crimp on the end tank that has the leak.

The lower intake manifolds on the Fox and 94/95 cars are basically the same. The thermostat housing is the same. The 14" measurement is from the center of the distributor hole to the engine side of the stock radiator. The stock fan shroud is 3.5" thick.

I have a MAC cover and it has hit and left a T shaped dent near the front drivers side of my spare tire well. I noticed it when going over big bumps. The MAC piece is very beefy. I have a Trick Flow (or Summit brand) cover on my '02 which is lowered also and it hasn't hit but it's not lowered...

If it makes things any easier, it is 10.5" from the center of the distributor hole to the electric cooling fan housing/shroud (the fan motor is a couple inches closer to the engine, but is located between the waterpump and crank so that will deffinetly have clearance issues). The cooling fan...

The fox accessory pulleys stick out further forward toward the radiator than the SN95's. If you put that on a SN95 motor the blower belt would have a good 1-2" additional space between it and the serpentine belt then what's in the pic you posted. The reason the SN95 motors have the short...

There won't be enough room unless you shorten the snout on your blower. The fox accessories stick further out toward the front of the motor, plus your blower snout/pulley sticks out even further than that. I run a Vortech blower and it uses a seperate belt that is located in front of the...

The front dress and accessories are shorter on the SN95 to gain more clearance. Depending on what blower you have, you may just need to get the SN95 blower bracket to make it fit. I know a Fox and SN95 vortech use the same head unit that has the volute clocked a bit different, only the...