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I am currently having a simliar problem. I turn the key on and the FP wont stop priming. it just keeps going. The car will start but it will barly run, funny thing is if I unplug the FP relay while the car is running it will smooth out and idle fine...until the fuel pressure runs out... I...

Sounds like your computer is pulling fuel when you let off the accelerator to shift, causing a lean condition. Maybe increasing fuel pressure 1 psi might help? :shrug: Also if your bored you might want to verify some of the sensor outputs. Like the ECT and the ACT sensors. Just to make...

sounds like you found the problem. :nice:

We are thinking the same things. :cheers:

Dang Oh well you can still test it at the STI connector. When you test the STI for continuity, it should read as an open circuit with the computer unplugged. Edit: I meant pin #48.

Mr. Probst says: The extra air from the Thermactor (smog pump) helps burn leftover HC and CO from the fuel-air mixture. The hot exhaust gasses resulting from the burning fuel-air mixtures in the exhaust manifolds help to heat the cats quicker.

Actually I was referring to tests the EPA made Ford do during engine development.

My guess is you have a short on the STI wire which is pin #48 on the EEC 60-pin connector. Try disconnecting your computer and check for continuity between pin #44 and ground. You should see infinite resistance. You can test your o2 sensors as well. O2 signal test: Let the car warm up...

I believe the main reason the smog pump was used, was to help the cats with the rich mixture during warm up, which was when most vehicles failed testing.

Without the cats you get poisoned, with them you just suffocate. What fun is that? I like the smell of burned gas, makes the late model cars seem more 60's muscle car like. I read somewhere that the stock cats take up 10hp on a 300RWHP car. So if your going to push over 400RWHP and are going...

I'm a pants and t-shirt guy when it comes to interior, I like to keep it simple. I like the looks of the 35th and 40th anniv. Mustangs. My next Mustang is going to be a 94/95 5.0, and I'm going to go for a Billet look, as long as I don't get the tan interior.

Back in 94/95 ford already had plans to install the 4.6 engine in the Mustang. They weren't putting much R&D money in the old pushrod motors. That being said, I think that staying with the pushrod motor while keeping within emissions limits. Ford would have gotten about 325HP out of the...

You probably won't break something, but you will accelerate the wear on the engine. All this means is that the engine might blow up at 195,000 miles instead of 200,000 miles.

Here's some TFI tests you can try. These are for a 93 engine but I don't think Ford changed anything for 94/95. 1. Check between Distributor base and Engine block - Should be less then 2 ohms. 2. Key off, disconnect TFI connector. Measure voltage at vehicle harness connector between START...

It could be a number of things, including throw out bearing, incorrectly cut gear teeth, bent shafts, etc. Let us know what the mechanic finds out.

I plan on getting my suspension kit from MP too. I talked to one of their sales men and he seemed...ok. Ordering from them will probably come back to bite me in the ass.

This is one of the reasons I do my own car work. Thanks guys.

Well he did say that you'll have to grease the joints every time you change the oil if you cut them.

I've been told that the first thing you should do when you get a car, is slice the boots open on the ball joints and tie rods. The guy I talked to said the boots get water in them, and every time he cuts one open water and dirty grease comes out. I always thought busting the boots was a bad...

My exhaust guy said he won't install tail pipes if I use rubber (or nylon) hose near the axle. Plus I might need a larger line for more HP. As long as it doesn't burst or leak I can't see why it wouldn't be safe. If I get in an accident bad enough to break the hard lines, I'll be dead anyways.