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My '67 coupe required elongating the C4's crossmember holes that mount to the body. I needed to drop the tranny about 1/8" to 1/4". It just barely touched the tranny tunnel otherwise.

Does it have the original wheel wells in the car still? Cut 'em out, add a strip of steel as wide as you need to clear the tire and weld it up. It's fairly easy if you take your time, have a grinder, and have a welder.

Is the whole system from the headers back one complete piece or do you have separate joints? Can you loosen the joints and the hangers put pressure on it in the direction you need it to go and then tighten it up? Depending on what kind of joints and hangers you have, you might have luck with...

I ran a 1987 T5 behind a '69 351W for a couple of years in my '67 coupe. The 2.79 gears gave me rediculous highway mileage.... waaaaaaaaaaaaay more fun then the C4. It cost me $700 for the tranny, shifter, flywheel, clutch, clutch pedal. I had to get the flywheel resurfaced and balanced...

Yeah, i appreciated this answer as well! I ran this intake on the same engine actually, but with the stock 78 heads, cam, and 600 cfm carb. It made more seat of the pants power than the 2bbl and I definitely had no drivability issues.

Thanks for the post! I'm probably sticking with stock fasteners for now. If i end up being happy with the motor I may upgrade to ARP stuff next time or build another shortblock. Are you running the stock stall converter in the FMX? I've already got the headers... if it was a driver i...

I was only there visiting there from north vancouver. Maybe next year i'll see you at mission... good luck with the build! I'm looking forward to seeing how it goes.

Just curious, what times (or how much HP/torque) did it run it the configuration it's in now (EFI/nitrous). I'm just wondering how much of an increase you're looking for. Are you from Kelowna? I swear i've seen the car before at a car show there.

It is as temporary as everything else that I'm doing to the car. Really I want overdrive, but a C4 is going in.... the 8" is fine for now, but beefing it up or putting a 9" in is definitely in the future. I know if i start spending money on the specific parts I won't have enough to finish the...

It looks like the heads have been cleaned up a bit. Supposedly they were ported... how much and by who is another story. What kind of RPM limit should I be looking at? Keeping below 5500? This will be the happy recipiant of the new windsor.. after a year or so of building it, it was my...

I plan on running a standard volume oil pump.... well, i just bought one at least. Should I worry about upgrading to an ARP oil pump driveshaft?

Oh yeah... the motor is going into my 1967 Coupe in front of a C4 and 8". My exhaust consists of Hedman 1 5/8" x 3" headers, 2.5" duals with x-pipe and 40 series flowies.

I've decided to put together my 1978 351W together on the cheap. I don't need 500hp (yet) so I'm putting together a motor I can run on the street while I work out the kinks in the rest of the car and save up for whatever motor I'm gonna build next. Plus... it's the first motor I've ever built...

Alright... I'm planning a motor build for my 1967 Mustang coupe. I was planning on building my 1978 351W on the cheap (re ring/bearing with stock bottom end), but I'm thinking about looking at a late model 302 (5.0L) because of its stock forged pistons (so i can play with nitrous) and roller...

I was just wondering.... Instead of spending the cash on a bigger throttle body, would it be possible to run two stock tb's in parallel? Using both hooked together with one tps telling the ecu what's going on. Then use two maf sensors, one for each tb. The computer measures the current...