Search results

Yep, that's why the glass is out; I put a new headliner in yesterday and the interior has been out of the car so long, I couldn't remember for sure the correct order of putting it back together. I was pretty sure it was glass first, but the body assembly manual insinuates that the dash pad goes...

I have always thought glass first, but the body assembly manual has me questioning myself now. What works for you guys?

It's the easiest stereo install you'll ever do. The stock wiring is just power & illumination dimming, and the single speaker in the dash. The biggest challenge will be finding something to fit if you don't want to cut the bezel. Read the forums to get opinions, but there are several choices...

Thanks, I think this is the approach I'm going to take. I had someone recommend squaring them off with a dremel cutting attachment too, but in my head anyway the flat file seems like the better choice. Sounds like you've done a few...is there any reason NOT to use the spacers?

I think it's pretty common to just use a sheet metal screw in there as a replacement "stud".

It looks to me like the inserts may provide a little backing for the grilles; and I was thinking the back isn't completely flat. Now I'm questioning that (they are in the trunk and I haven't looked at them in a few weeks). If they aren't, my level of concern about using the inserts is going to...

You're right...I misspoke. Block envy I guess, as a small block owner I sometimes call them all FEs. :D

Too wide for a '67? There's one on Craigslist in my area for $300.

Not a bad idea, I may try it on something scrap. Similarly, I think I have a couple of spare bastard files that I could grind down to the right side and not risk stretching the sheet metal. Thanks for the food for thought.

inner door panels of my '67 to mount the lower door grilles. It is supposed to use the plastic inserts in the door, which the grilles and then screwed into. Yes, I could just drill holes and screw them directly in, but it looks like the inserts may provide a little backing to the hollow part...

The arrow headed tool is the right one. Just go slow and try not to bend that molding. From what I've heard, the repo stuff is not very good. For the drip rail molding, I used a old-style can opener with electrial tape wrapped around it to prevent scratches and pried it up and off. Again -...

Just playing devil's advocate here, but unless the car originally had a big block I would consider a stroked 351W. Parts are less expensive and more plentiful. You can get big block cubes (427) and save a lot of weight and space in the engine compartment. That thing will be very nose heavy...

^^^What he said. There should also be a wiring harness for the shifter light and the light at the rear of the console, I can't tell if that is there. There are also some plastic "cup" inserts for those slots, which are meant to hold the seat belts. Lastly, there is some bracketry -...

I've been mulling this over as well, but with shorty headers in the mix. I don't really want to do the long tube or tri-y b/c of heat and the aesthetics (i.e. visible below the car). The hipo manifold or short headers are more appealing to me from that aspect but not if they are not much...

So not to hijack the thread, but has anyone added power steering to a manual steering car? I picked up the parts to do so on my '67 coupe (289, 3 sp) over time. I haven't evaluated everything and I'm sure there will need to be some freshening up of some of those parts but they are there in a...

Not sure if it was my post, but I had this problem in my '67 coupe and the filler neck rubber was the culprit. Looked OK from the outside, but inside it was cracked and was apparently leaking just enough into the trunk to stink the place up :)

Right O - big blocks won't fit into the 65-66's without some major surgery. Thought about a 351 stroker?

Could be all over the place - if that's a 428 CJ the engine could be worth that for someone wanting to put it back in it's original car...or if the guy is wrong and it's a '68 it could be worth a lot more. If it's just your basic FE drop in to a 67 coupe, the price is probably about right...

To remove, there's a stud at the front, and there are simple clips that run the length. Drill out the pop rivets on the clips after you take the molding off and weld up all the holes.

I rebuilt mine with PST polygraphite a few years ago and have been very happy with it, given that it's essentially a stock rebuild. The poly firms it up a bit (I guess, anything firms it up when it's 35 years old and you put new parts on). It's no corner carver but the squeeks are gone and the...