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The poly locks are sunk in and locked down, probably just the angle/lighting of the video. There is also a little pool of oil on top of every poly lock from running. I turned down the idle so oil didnt splash everywhere, think i was at about a 900 idle.

I can't do it that way, I have a triple core aluminium radiator with a 16" electric fan on a thermostat. Here is a video I think would help all of us here. Everything checks out on the motor... It just sounds like this... :chair:

Yeah, my 351C is bored .030 over with TRW pistons. The noise is more annoying than an "oh :poo:!" noise... exactly like an industrial sewing machine. I just got another valve cover to cut the top off of to put on the motor, that way I can adjust the valves with the motor running... I'm thinking...

I havent had time to mess with the motor, life can be so hectic! I was discussing my motor with an older Ford guy and he mentioned there was a difference in pistons for a 2V and 4V motor?? he said it might sound like the valve is knicking the valve relieve on the piston.... I figured my motor...

I did not... The wear pattern looked normal on the valve stem after using the sharpie trick though. I am certain the headers are not leaking but will check one more time. After that I will have my buddy from the machine shop come back to adjust the valve lash one last time :suicide:

I'm using the high quality fel-pro gaskets for my long tube hooker headers. I've felt around before and have not felt a leak. I'm just starting to assume this is the way the motor sounds the way it is set-up... The motor has awesome power, no hesitation, fires up the first time every time, and...

Here is a short clip of my motor at idle. Tell me what you guys think it could be!! I'M LOST!!:drool:

Looks like everything thing is good under the valve covers... :bang: The roller rocker is hitting the valve tip properly... valve lash is perfect... and the rockers are not hitting the valve covers... It just sounds like a "sewing machine" I guess :shrug: Should I record my motor running and try...

Guess its time to start using some prussian blue, sharpie's, and a good ruler!! I'll start measuring and show my findings soon.

I'm still wondering why push rod length is such an issue here? I thought that was eliminated when I converted it from the non-adjustable to adjustable rocker arms. The motor has great power, dosent miss or hesitate, or backfire. I guess it does sound like a sewing machine in a way, but i think...

Hey Guys, I took my mechanics stehascope and listened around the valve covers, I didn't here anything hitting them. I took them off and ground down the areas where I thought they might hit. I also did the double valve cover gasket trick. I'm still getting the noise... :bang: How would I check...

I Put stock length rods in and it has the adjustable stud conversion. I'm leaning towards my valve covers are too short....

Hey guys, back again.... Thanks for the guys who helped with my hydraulic clutch issues!!:hail: Now its driveable, but the motor is noisy as hell coming from the valve covers. Here is what I have done to the motor, on open chamber 4V heads. - CompCams Magnum series .530 list cam - Brand new...

I got it going in to gear and rolling!!! after 5 years :hail2:.... Yes, the bleed screw was on the top of the slave. I bought a dollars worth of vacuum tubing and placed it over the bleed screw and ran it up to the master cylinder!! Just kept pumping up the pedal until I saw no more air...

Thanks chris! I'll be trying out that today, I was thinking of making the slave cylinder and master cylinder a loop with the pump in line. I'll see if it is possible, that would be the best way to bleed anything im sure!

Just got the hand vacum pump from harbor freight! I'm sure this will help in the bleeding process. How did you "pull" the cylinder out of the slave cylinder?

Thanks chris, I did put the nut on until there was no play in the clutch fork and then a turn or two. How much pre-load is required?

I called modern driveline and all they wanted to do was try and sell me their stuff.... I bought my set-up from daze cars, 3/4" willwood master and the CNC 7/8" bore slave. The master has a 1.4" stroke and the slave has an 1 1/8" stroke, will this set-up work??

Thanks guys! I guess I will try and bleed the system more... Could you tell me the procedure you used?? I couldnt use a cable set-up in my car, but i did see that came out with a 73 mustang conversion set-up.

I finally got my car started after many headaches... now my t5 won't go into gear. I have a 3/4" wilwood master cylinder and the CNC slave cylinder set-up. I've bleed the system and i believe I am getting enough throw (just over 1 inch). My push rod adjuster nut does seem to come loose after...