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Price reduced.

On the car for approx 800 miles and removed because I traded the car. Car made 400 hp, 385 tq SAE with these together and a dyno tune. $500 for the xpipe, $225 for the intake, or $700 for both (together new over $1100). Local sale only, cash only, parts are located at my brother's dyno shop...

Any idea what stock GT's were making on the same dyno?

Congrats! Nothing wrong with a base, I was actually looking for a base auto, but could only find a Premium Brembo 6sp manual in my area at the time.

SAE? Or uncorrected?

That was with a 4th gear dyno pull.... But yes, it's definitely making more than 412hp at the flywheel.

Bone stock vs Airaid CAI, Magnaflow catted x-pipe and tune. For a comparison my previous car, 2010 Camaro SS M6 put down 364/364 hp/tq bone stock, and 400/400 hp/tq with a Roto-fab cai, Kooks long tubes/high flow cats and complete cat back Magnaflow and tune on the same dyno.

Never saw one with the pad facing that way before... spark show??? Got any pics of the other side of the disc?

SCT tune will do it.

This is all about a combination of cars with skip shift dumping them into 4th gear at inopportune times, and maybe a few cars that might have experienced the issue with flywheel bolts backing out. Every forum I visit is plastered with these threads..... :dead:

I believe it can be turned off in the tune, but has to be done by your local SCT tuner, can't be done with the handheld. Once it's turned off, it's off, and you can't turn it back on without seeing your tuner again. I'm thinking about doing this myself, no fun when I forget to disable it and it...

I was getting water in there with the plastic intake and after the trickflow intake install.... wasn't coolant, just water. I would always find it in the rear cyl plug holes, sometimes fwd ones too, depending on how the car was parked on where the water went... Sure it's the same for you rdpar...

Started getting water in my spark plug wells on my 99 last year. I found water would come in from the hood scoop area(thru the plastic retainers) and leak down thru the spark plug boots. I would hardly ever see any sign of water on the engine, but pull the plugs once and a while and nothing...

What are your 60ft times? You should be running high 13's - 14.0 right now with your mods... 4.10's are perfect for the 1/4 mile, but will hurt you if you are not launching correctly, or shifting at the correct rpm. Get some more seat time, you've got more potential in the setup you have now...

I've been thru the vibration deal already... Done the driveshaft, engine mounts, etc... My engine has a vibration that ranges from 2200 to about 2400rpms. I've learned to live with it. When I redo the engine, I will make sure everything is balanced perfectly. If you push in the clutch...

I got it so I wouldn't spin an axle tube in the housing... but I've had the tubes welded since, and you wouldn't feel a difference anyway, it's just preventive maint.. You should be fine with just the control arms for now.

I've got 'em, uppers and lowers with the axle brace. Been launching with 1.6 and 1.7 60 ft's for the past 2 seasons and the bushings are holding up fine. For a comparison(you get what you pay for), the bushings in my brother's Granatelli's blew out within the first few runs at the track.

Did your BBK throttle body come with instructions? Adjust the allen screw on the throttle body a little at a time and try it after each time. You have to test it with the engine running so it's pulling a vacuum on the throttle blade....you wont feel it stick when the car is not running. You...

Know your car! Know your mods, even if you did not install them yourself! Especially if you are going to enter your car into a car show!

39:D