Build Thread 1978 Fairmont Futura Build. Walking The Path Out Of Darkness

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by madmike1157, Aug 26, 2013.

  1. Did the bumpsteer kit come with instructions on how to square it up like you're going to do w/ MDF? The other question I have is if the SN95(94-95) spindle is used on a fox are you supposed to get struts for a 94-95 or a fox and just get spacers like you did? Soon I'll be doing all this front suspension stuff you're doing. The only difference is that I'll be installing a UPR tubular k-member. I also plan to do the MM squaring method. I saw the quickie version done on "Engine Power" TV show last weekend. The reason I say quickie is because they don't show just how long it actually takes to do that sh it.
  2. They'll be on the S47 by the time this things done


    Good progress mike. I'm thinking I might invest in this satin black thing as well. Looks a lot better than my flat black bay.
  3. The Mdf board will bolt to the spindle. It'll be solely for checking bumpsteer, Squaring the K member (or at least the method to try and square it) is listed in several places online simply by doing a Google search. (What I did). As for the struts, I believe that purchasing a set of struts for a 95 would've saved me the headache, but I had bought the KYB's months ago, so for me I chose to use what I had as opposed to throwing away a brand new set of stock struts.
  4. Hmm,.....5 pages back in one day. This is getting to be a waste of time....:nonono:

    More old school methodology.

    I have to get the front suspension to a point where It can be checked for bumpsteer. That means that Caster, Camber, and Toe all have to be close enough to make the whole process of the bumpsteer tuning not a waste of time. I assembled the front suspension, placed jackstands under the control arms to simulate ride height and put the rotors on. Then I pulled a string from the rear of the car, to the front, pulling it taught between two cement blocks.
    Referencing the line by using the rear rotor, I finessed the thing till I got it as parallel to the body as possible. Once done, I used it to align the front rotor. Once the front rotor was aligned with the string, I set the camber to zero bubble, and pushed the strut to the rear as far as the CC plates would let me.
    Then I moved the string, and clamp-U-lated these alum bars to the rotors, and set toe to 1/8" toe'd in.
    Then I put a chain between the top of the k member through the lower control arm and strapped the arm so it wouldn't drop. Removed the jack stand, bolted on my front wheel, and ran it through a turn arc to make sure it wasn't gonna rub anything. (it did)
    I have to "persuade" one of my fuel lines to hug the fender well more closely, and I'm gonna have to change the fitting that comes out of the I/C to a 90 instead of a straight w/ a 90 hose end. Both small problems that are now remedied.
    When I get to work on it next, I'm gonna place a 2x4 block between the lower arm, and the k member so I can put the thing on the ground and make sure that the ride height I think is right, is actually where I want it to be.


    I'll roll it.

    For the first time in 8 months.
  5. Starting to look like a car again.
  6. I'll be looking forward to seeing that.
  7. Maybe I should start a thread asking what wheels I should choose (even though I already have) so it wont get buried 4 pages back in 24 hours then????
  8. Will you be using a GT40 head?
  9. IDK, How much extra power do you think it'll add? What if I add shorties, and off road H pipe, a set of 2 chambers, and a B cam?
    Actually, it's an A cam,...sorry
  10. Taco cam
    MikeH686 likes this.
  11. Probably need to start a separate thread, don't think it's been covered
  12. Wait a moment, are you using 40Ps or non-40Ps? What elevation will your injector fluid be tuned for? Are you running an internal or external rootanator? Finally, how many speed parts stickers will be seen from a distance of 6 or more feet? Rough estimate.......more than a Huffy bike.

    Oh, I vote for "RD Ribs" on the valve cover....unless you plan to put speed stickers over the top for added rigidity.
  13. Ah, so you chose Bullitt wheels. I wonder if your offset is the same as my Shelby wheels, cause I bet they would look SICK with your Cougar/Shelby tails! :confused:
  14. Quiet Iowegian,....I'm still considering them.
  15. No real update other than a Ripley believe or not tidbit.



    BFH hanging from magnet.

    I'm placing three of these rare earth magnets in the oil pan. These things are so magnetic that prying them apart takes a seriously deliberate effort. Obviously, the intent is to stop metal from circulating through the engine, but as sticky as these things are, I believe that they'd hold a freakin' connecting rod if one was to come loose.

    Just sayin.
    stangboy likes this.
  16. ...and where might one get one of these rare earth magnets???? o_O
  17. IDK to tell the truth. I got mine from a buddy in the security business. (they use them to secure doors/windows where the contact has a tendency to shift around alot due to changes in temperature)
  18. Try . I have bought several stacks of small magnets from them and got good service and prices. Check out their surplus stock since you aren't really concerned about the shape of the magnet. Personally I would choose a magnet that wasn't very thick and had a larger diameter than 1/2 in or 12 MM.

    Check out the magnet's temperature rating since most rare earth magnets start to lose their magnetism at temperatures above 176 ° F.

    The D82SH magnet from K&J Magnetics is the one that they recommend for use in oil pans and filters ( )
    #719 jrichker, May 30, 2014
    Last edited: May 30, 2014
  19. Nice avatar pic, Mike! I was picturing you more as the mad scientist X the Hulk.
    The magnets are easily available on eBay in a variety of size and shapes. Would you epoxy it in place? Soldering it will overheat it and it will loose sticking power.